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R1100s models, repair information and related

R1100s intermittent dash warning lamp

...so I'm going to pull the resistor offline and replace the LED with an incandescent and see if it does it again. Then I'll know if its the flashy thing or the step down resistor that allows the LED. Got a trip this week and will see what happens.
B.
 
If the resistor is in series with the LED, that's a very poor setup - the actual voltage getting to the LED will then depend directly on how much current that LED draws.
Maybe the previous owner only had a 5 or 2 volt LED available? If that's the case, junk it and use a 12 volt LED (sometimes also referred to as "9 to 24 volts", but intended for 12ish).

If the resistor is in parallel with the LED - which is the "more typical" setup for a conversion - its job is to increase the current draw, as an attempt to fool the CANBus (on bikes that have 'em). But I don't believe the S has a CANBus, it's still "old school" and "normal" wiring. I could be wrong...

I don't know if the S's software is the same as other oilheads, but a "brake light warning" may actually be talking about the TAIL light. Check that too!


and one more: I don't worry about spelling, thanks to auto-correct. And for that I am eternally grapefruit. :D
 
But I don't believe the S has a CANBus, it's still "old school" and "normal" wiring. I could be wrong...

You are not wrong - no canbus on 1100S. I installed LED headlamp "bulbs" on mine no issues.

And I admire your faith in speelcheck. :D
 
electrical issues

Did a 500 miler last week, no malfunctions, will keep using the filament bulb for another trip then trade it out for the LED and see if I bring back the failure or get bored and forget it.:)
 
2003 R1100s MOA disaster

Prepped the hell out of the bike, ran several 500 mile test runs, was ready to go. From Tampa, stopped in Jacksonville for lunch, came out, suited up with engine running and idle stumbles and bike dies. Several attempts to restart, no spark. Pulled plug, dry, no spark. Attached GS-911 no error codes, (but, on my bike if the engine isn't running you don't get a hall sensor reading). Did all the waiting and retrying attempts, no go. Battery (Lithium) switched off to protect mode once it senses 2% charge remaining, then had nothing on the dash. Hotel, flatbed to Jacksonville dealer, rental car home.

3 days later dealer calls and sez bike started with another battery we have, don't use Lithium batteries because the old bikes don't like the "spikey" power delivery. Spikey battery has been fine for over a year (care was taken to match voltage and amps). Kept on a lithium charger whenever not running. Haven't quizzed the mechanic yet.
Not racing to pick it up in hopes it's stolen out of the dealership :)
B.
 
Quick note on the above:

Hall sensors are sometimes known to start having issues when the engine is hot, then seem to work fine a few hours later... until they finally die completely.
That's the best you're gonna get for an "early warning" of a slowly dying Hall sensor.

It's possible your battery isn't the problem at all... just a hall sensor that's on its last leg.

Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic... But I did stay at a Holiday Inn one time. :thumb
 
Not racing to pick it up in hopes it's stolen out of the dealership :)

Have the dealership park it on the street with key in the ignition. Oh, and make sure its got a standard-type battery in it - wouldn't want to frustrate the thief.

But seriously, that's a bit of a pisser. Never heard of "spikey" power of a lithium battery. I had one installed in an Italian sport bike for 6 years with no issues before I sold the bike.

Lots of speculative but no definitive ideas on why your bike conked out.
 
Prepped the hell out of the bike, ran several 500 mile test runs, was ready to go. From Tampa, stopped in Jacksonville for lunch, came out, suited up with engine running and idle stumbles and bike dies. Several attempts to restart, no spark. Pulled plug, dry, no spark. Attached GS-911 no error codes, (but, on my bike if the engine isn't running you don't get a hall sensor reading). Did all the waiting and retrying attempts, no go. Battery (Lithium) switched off to protect mode once it senses 2% charge remaining, then had nothing on the dash. Hotel, flatbed to Jacksonville dealer, rental car home.

3 days later dealer calls and sez bike started with another battery we have, don't use Lithium batteries because the old bikes don't like the "spikey" power delivery. Spikey battery has been fine for over a year (care was taken to match voltage and amps). Kept on a lithium charger whenever not running. Haven't quizzed the mechanic yet.
Not racing to pick it up in hopes it's stolen out of the dealership :)
B.

I take it you really mean your attempt to get to the MOA Rally turned into a disaster?

A year old battery can go or be bad. It will be good to test the lithium battery to see what is up.
I think the advice on the HES is good advice, has it ever been replaced?
Was the lithium battery charger connected directly to the battery?

OM
 
Hall sensor

Quick note on the above:

Hall sensors are sometimes known to start having issues when the engine is hot, then seem to work fine a few hours later... until they finally die completely.
That's the best you're gonna get for an "early warning" of a slowly dying Hall sensor.

It's possible your battery isn't the problem at all... just a hall sensor that's on its last leg.

Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic... But I did stay at a Holiday Inn one time. :thumb

I ordered one from EME that day I was back, and the timing tool as well. Bike has 29k on the odometer.
 
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MOA disaster

I take it you really mean your attempt to get to the MOA Rally turned into a disaster?

A year old battery can go or be bad. It will be good to test the lithium battery to see what is up.
I think the advice on the HES is good advice, has it ever been replaced?
Was the lithium battery charger connected directly to the battery?

OM

Yup, about $500.00 in non refundable hotel. My vacation.....trying AAA trip interruption and see what that gets me.
HES looks stock and no reference in past dealership notes from previous owner that it was replaced. First I'll check the connection under the tank and see if those wires look bad. But I plan to pull it and install the new and improved EME HES I have now.
Charger connects to a OEM dongle supplied connected to the battery with a OEM secondary reset switch connected to the battery. Battery Tender makes the battery.
 
Have the dealership park it on the street with key in the ignition. Oh, and make sure its got a standard-type battery in it - wouldn't want to frustrate the thief.

But seriously, that's a bit of a pisser. Never heard of "spikey" power of a lithium battery. I had one installed in an Italian sport bike for 6 years with no issues before I sold the bike.

Lots of speculative but no definitive ideas on why your bike conked out.

Yeah, I haven't quizzed the tech yet. But a little skeptical that a battery switch all of a sudden brings it to life again, without a fuse replacement, code reset or some other reset.
 
Hall sensor

...as said, a failing Hall sensor could short when hot, reconnect when cold. First thing I do to it once I have it back is to replace.
 
...as said, a failing Hall sensor could short when hot, reconnect when cold. First thing I do to it once I have it back is to replace.

"Heat with a hair dryer until it fails" is the usual test, then let it cool (test with a non-contact thermometer) and see if it restarts.
 
R1100s pickup

...so the bike did not get stolen at the Jacksonville dealer, so I'm forced to pick it up on July 8th. I'm bringing a trailer.
B.
 
Just in...More dealership fun

Jacksonville dealership called today, wondering when I'd pick the bike up (because they apparently don't read their incoming texts ) turns out the bike really isn't fixed!...I'm shocked! (had asked them to ride it...they didn't) Starts and then turns off...now they say, they can't hear the fuel pump. (I replaced that less than a year ago, always possible thu) I told them to stop trying to fix it, I'm picking it up. Should be a tense Saturday.
 
R1100s first look

IMG_3671.jpg
...well got the bike home, first look at Hall connections. But at this point I still have spark...but no fuel. So I think the fuel pump has died. Will replace both. Tank is off, waiting for pump parts and then began to settle in on a HALL transplant. Plugs out, Alternator cover off, view port plug out, locking bar at the ready, rotating the engine clock-wise...can't find the hole on the flywheel, tried I bet 12 times slightly different positions, could feel the bar sliding along the surface of the flywheel, still nothing, give up for now.
 
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