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R1100s models, repair information and related

flywheel tool

The 1100S uses this tool to lock the flywheel because of the airbox. The starter is removed and tool inserted.
83300401562 ENGINE LOCKING DEVICE 0.05 1 $37.32


I made my own out of aluminum
I bought that tool from MAX BMW in prep for a future clutch install, mine is a cheap plastic 3d printed item, most likely will do the same and use it as a pattern. Didn't know if I pulled the starter I would have enough room to use it. Good tip.
I would like to insert a tool into the BMW engineers right about now.
 
My magnesium cover didn't burst into flame but I didn't see it sliding so no idea if it threw sparks or not.
 
Hall sensor stuff I learned

In talking with EME the Denver based BMW electrical guys, the Hall sensor does several things other than tell the Motronic to fire the plugs, it also signals to energize the fuel pump at key turn. If those Hall wires are degraded, they short, killing the fuel pump while still leaving the circuit for the plugs to fire...could be my issue as the fuel pump was fine, just isn't getting energized.
Also tested the wires going into the pump plate and I have continuity through the plate and through the pump.
 
In talking with EME the Denver based BMW electrical guys, the Hall sensor does several things other than tell the Motronic to fire the plugs, it also signals to energize the fuel pump at key turn. If those Hall wires are degraded, they short, killing the fuel pump while still leaving the circuit for the plugs to fire...could be my issue as the fuel pump was fine, just isn't getting energized.
Also tested the wires going into the pump plate and I have continuity through the plate and through the pump.
Actually the pump prime timer upon ignition on is a function of the Motronic.
The upper hall sensor controls the spark and extra fuel pulse when cranking.
The lower sensor controls the fuel pulse.
 

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Actually the pump prime timer upon ignition on is a function of the Motronic.
The upper hall sensor controls the spark and extra fuel pulse when cranking.
The lower sensor controls the fuel pulse.
So maybe I lost the lower sensor. Interesting. GSA, where did you find this chart? is it only available to Canadians :)
 
Hall timing without a timing device

I have several OE manuals.

The EME tech also said, that a "shade tree mechanic" method to time the Hall without any timing device was to rotate the sensor until you heard the pump go on and that would put you in the ball park...make sense to you?
He was inferring that the pump/assembled gas tank had to be connected to the bike for the Hall sensor to light the timing device that I put inline. Hope that's accurate.
 
Setting the timing on Oilheads

Ignition key off
Unplug the headlight (optional)
Remove the flywheel viewing plug in the bell housing
Remove the alternator belt cover

On the 1150/1100S: Rotate the crank by hand to a little before the 'S' mark (5° BTDC) on the flywheel
Turn the ignition key on - the fuel pump will cycle normally for 1 sec
Rotate the crank very s-l-o-w-l-y CW by hand until the fuel pump cycles again
The crank is now at the hall sensor trip point - in this case that is also the static timing point
Look at the flywheel marking to see where the static timing is set - should be "OT"
Adjust if necessary

On the 1100: Rotate the crank by hand to well beyond the 'OT' mark (TDC) on the flywheel
Turn the ignition key on - the fuel pump will cycle normally for 1 sec
Rotate the crank very s-l-o-w-l-y CCW by hand until the fuel pump cycles again
The crank is now at the hall sensor trip point - in this case that is also the static timing point
Look at the flywheel marking to see where the static timing is set
Adjust if necessary

There is only 3 degrees of adjustment
 
Setting the timing on Oilheads

Ignition key off
Unplug the headlight (optional)
Remove the flywheel viewing plug in the bell housing
Remove the alternator belt cover

On the 1150/1100S: Rotate the crank by hand to a little before the 'S' mark (5° BTDC) on the flywheel
Turn the ignition key on - the fuel pump will cycle normally for 1 sec
Rotate the crank very s-l-o-w-l-y CW by hand until the fuel pump cycles again
The crank is now at the hall sensor trip point - in this case that is also the static timing point
Look at the flywheel marking to see where the static timing is set - should be "OT"
Adjust if necessary

On the 1100: Rotate the crank by hand to well beyond the 'OT' mark (TDC) on the flywheel
Turn the ignition key on - the fuel pump will cycle normally for 1 sec
Rotate the crank very s-l-o-w-l-y CCW by hand until the fuel pump cycles again
The crank is now at the hall sensor trip point - in this case that is also the static timing point
Look at the flywheel marking to see where the static timing is set
Adjust if necessary

There is only 3 degrees of adjustment
Super helpful, thankyou.
 
As this thread has meandered, the title has been adjusted for clarity and search ability.

OM
 
Meandered

"Meandered" well I've never! :) How dare we exchange information about the bike. I guess it's for photos of bikes and trips, hold on I have one.
2003r1100s.jpg
 
R1100s no start

So it has a fuel pressure issue...like very little. Will test the Pressure Regulator (not likely) then pull the tank, pull the pump plate because this is happening in the tank. It will be a hose or fuel filter coming apart at the seams or all of the above. The score so far- Bike: 1 fuel pump, 1 HALL sensor, 1 ignition coil 1 Alternator Belt, now adding 2 expensive BMW internal hoses and 1 fuel filter. Owner: 0
 
So it has a fuel pressure issue...like very little. Will test the Pressure Regulator (not likely) then pull the tank, pull the pump plate because this is happening in the tank. It will be a hose or fuel filter coming apart at the seams or all of the above. The score so far- Bike: 1 fuel pump, 1 HALL sensor, 1 ignition coil 1 Alternator Belt, now adding 2 expensive BMW internal hoses and 1 fuel filter. Owner: 0

Sorry to hear it man, hang in there ad hopefully you end up squared away soon.

For my part, went to replace a burnt out taillight bulb last night and removing the lens found structural crumblings rendering both the lens itself and the receiving end of the tailight assembly/reflector... broken.

It would seem that 17 hours days of constant vibration has an affect on 22yo plastic parts.

Off to Bimmer Boneyard, or, if necessary... the OEM parts catalogue.

They're a worthwhile labor or love imo.

Ride well Skibum!
 
R1100s trouble shooting

Yeah, sometimes I forget it's a 20 year old machine, designed by German guys that are mostly dead....
 
R1100s no start solved

With great diagnostic advice from JugHead the issue was found and a theory devised. Newly installed after-market fuel pump draws more amperage than the stock 15amp fuel relay can handle, thus disconnecting the fuel pump at startup. Solution installed a 30amp relay and it seems problem is solved. I guess along with considerable drama and cash, and 2 towing experiences. I did find a failing fuel pump, a Hall sensor ready to short out and a new friend in South Africa.
I truly believe this is now the most sorted R1100s that is running today...and I don't trust it a mile from the house.
 
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