R1100s models, repair information and related

[fbt80]

sensors

Although rare, I have had the actual sensors themselves be heat sensitive and stop functioning only to resume when cooled.
It's happened to me on one of my rewired units that passed all the tests on the rotating tester including the heat test to 300f.
Issue only showed up a couple months later after quite a few miles.

You know, now after all this, I'm not surprised at anything that happens on a BMW. With automobile clutch designs and car electronics they really are unique in the motorcycle world...kinda like serial killers in ours...

 

[kbasa]

I have already replaced the HES. It had disintegrating wiring so replaced with one that has super silicon coated wires etc. But yeah, it kinda acts like a bad HES.
Now knowing multiple problems can mask as one , right now I know there is a break in the wiring between the Fuse box (left one) and the relay box (left one). So that's next...thank god it's only about a foot of wire to go thru but a lot of disassembly of the relay box to get at the connectors underneath.

As for heat cause, I was wrong, because it turned off the pump on a cold bike as well and all I did was turn it on. So the break has responded to heat and disconnects and responds to energizing by disconnecting as well.

 

[fbt80]

Wires

If you can actually find & prove the broken/damaged wire it may be simpler and less effort to run a new wire in parallel to test and confirm that this is the issue.

I have seen this in the Marine industry where a section of wire has corroded in the jacket and not carried enough current for the load.

Super good advice, I planned to do just that, as you mentioned this is the technique I use in my boats as well. Even if the wire isn't broken it may not pass the full current due to resistance.

 

[fbt80]

Christine wiring problem

Super good advice, I planned to do just that, as you mentioned this is the technique I use in my boats as well. Even if the wire isn't broken it may not pass the full current due to resistance.

So it looks like the red wire with yellow trace is the culprit between fuse and Motronic and fuel relay. Now I need to pull up the relay rack to get to the wiring underneath. Looks like both relay sockets can be pulled up as a unit to reveal the wiring underneath. Seems to have a catch on one side and so far while depressing it does not release. Anyone done this before?

 

[fbt80]

Nope that wasn't it at all

So it looks like the red wire with yellow trace is the culprit between fuse and Motronic and fuel relay. Now I need to pull up the relay rack to get to the wiring underneath. Looks like both relay sockets can be pulled up as a unit to reveal the wiring underneath. Seems to have a catch on one side and so far while depressing it does not release. Anyone done this before?

Bike is running. Two possible scenarios. The new HES I got failed on the fuel sensor side...or I had a failing kickstand cutoff switch. Removed the kickstand switch and bridged the connection and install yet another new HES nicely sent for free from the good folks at EME...and the bike fired right up. Now I have to reassemble the left relay bank that I have in pieces right now.

 

[RPGR90s]

Super good advice, I planned to do just that, as you mentioned this is the technique I use in my boats as well. Even if the wire isn't broken it may not pass the full current due to resistance.

Its a good strategy. I had an issue on my 2004 RT a few years ago, when activating the left turn signal, it would kill the engine. The ground wire had about 300 ohms and after hours and hours of troubleshooting, tracing, I decided to run a separate ground, in parallel. It's been fixed ever since.

 

[lkchris]

S has about 8hp more due to different exhaust, higher compression and different cam/valves also a little lighter.

Different injectors, too. Same ones as on later 1150s I think.

 

[fbt80]

Most likely a finer spray pattern, but still doesn't compensate for a very poorly designed Fueling map I use a "Booster Plug" with the sensor probe run into the fresh air snorkel that helps a bit off of idle.

 

[kbasa]

Most likely a finer spray pattern, but still doesn't compensate for a very poorly designed Fueling map I use a "Booster Plug" with the sensor probe run into the fresh air snorkel that helps a bit off of idle.

I had a chip from Factory Pro installed on mine. It got ride of some of the lean fueling issues that bike had.

 

[fbt80]

I'll check and see if they still have one/make one.

 

[bc1100s]

Get one of these and your surging will disappear. Recommended by the guru known as GSAddict.

AF-XiED O2 Sensor Manipulators

AF-XiED O2 sensor manipulators are the best solution for the overly lean fueling common to all BMW bikes. This lean fueling results in ...

www.beemerboneyard.com

 

[fbt80]

Yup know about this, doesn't entirely disappear from testimonials I've read, but I think better than what I'm using. During stop and go traffic I play a game of trying to use ultra smooth throttle, clutch and shifting without any lugging or surging. About 80% successful until I get tired/bored. I wonder if my O2 sensor still good. I think I have a test in my GS-911? may try testing it.

 

[fbt80]

Gurgling fuel tank?
Even though "Christine" has traveled 560 trouble free miles after my repairs, I still listen for everything unusual because she can't be trusted. Bike sat in parking lot of office in blazing sun all day and a return ride back to home included bad stop & go traffic before parking at home. Turn off bike and the fuel tank (3/4 tank) begins to gurgle, like for 10 minutes. I know that the fuel system is a close loop affair and the unused fuel just keeps circulating...could the fuel get hot enough to boil? It's the first time I've noticed and is loud enough I'm sure I would have noticed before.

 

[omega man]

Gurgling fuel tank?
Even though "Christine" has traveled 560 trouble free miles after my repairs, I still listen for everything unusual because she can't be trusted. Bike sat in parking lot of office in blazing sun all day and a return ride back to home included bad stop & go traffic before parking at home. Turn off bike and the fuel tank (3/4 tank) begins to gurgle, like for 10 minutes. I know that the fuel system is a close loop affair and the unused fuel just keeps circulating...could the fuel get hot enough to boil? It's the first time I've noticed and is loud enough I'm sure I would have noticed before.

Sounds like however the fuel tank is vented, the venting isn’t working. Next time you hear that gurgling, open the fuel tank cap and listen for a “whoosh” of air.
Clogged vents cause a lot of trouble.
OM

 

[fbt80]

Yeah, I did and no whoosh. I guess I could blow out the vent lines. Looks like fuel can start to bubble around 140F.

 

[fbt80]

Hi all, I always 'am on the lookout for R1100s maintenance info. Found this, didn't have this one till now, perhaps some of you didn't either.

 

[skibum69]

Good one!

 

[mhines]

Hi all, I always 'am on the lookout for R1100s maintenance info. Found this, didn't have this one till now, perhaps some of you didn't either.

Thanks for posting this!

 

[fbt80]

Christine is officially fixed. 2,500 mile trip to and from the "Tail of the Dragon" zero issues, 80-100mph cruising, finally figured out how to turn the bike, needs to be aggressive and with body over the tank and to the inside, and then the steering lightens up, at least for me. On the super slab this bike is a weapon. Personal best was 718 miles in one day.

 

[kbasa]

Christine is officially fixed. 2,500 mile trip to and from the "Tail of the Dragon" zero issues, 80-100mph cruising, finally figured out how to turn the bike, needs to be aggressive and with body over the tank and to the inside, and then the steering lightens up, at least for me. On the super slab this bike is a weapon. Personal best was 718 miles in one day.

I always found my S bike to very, very sensitive to proper tire inflation. If it starts feeling "slow", it meant I needed to start checking tire pressures.

Good to hear you found some happiness there!