R1100s models, repair information and related

[omega man]

It's just four bolts and two gaskets (the flat "outer" gasket, which IS directional, and the "cup" for the center post) per side... easy peasy. Maybe a little oil mess if you aren't prepared for it (a drain pan under the head).
But we do appreciate your willingness to admit some limitations (a la Clint Eastwood).
Teflon tape here just seems "iffy" to me... on the outer cap, you chance having a small bit drop into the oil if it breaks off (as when adding oil), and on the inner seal, you cannot really see and verify that the teflon has seated properly and that any excess isn't hanging down.

By the way, you can leave out the @ everywhere unless you're directly emailing somebody...

Along those lines-
One needs to be careful with Teflon tape in fluid systems. If a piece of Teflon tape breaks free, it’s not prone to dissolving, it’s prone to getting “wedged” somewhere in the fluid passages. Sometimes it becomes a problem, sometimes you find it in a fluid change.
OM

 

[lkchris]

If you have the original rubber brake lines get rid of them NOW. Not tomorrow. NOW. Speigler makes excellent replacements as do other suppliers. The brake system is VERY reliable (including the servo assisted ones) as long as the rubber lines haven't yet disintegrated from the inside. Yearly flushing is mandatory. Alternator belts are easy to change. Just be methodical. Clutch slave cylinders? See above on brake maintenance.

Replacing the left side cam chain tensioner is also a must and dead easy to do.

Interesting thing about those rubber brake lines ...

... one can find BMW Airheads from the 1970s with their original rubber brake lines doing just fine.

What happened?

In the 1990s new German laws specified that auto parts be biodegradable. It's the reason Oilhead wiring harnesses are disintegrating and the reason the rubber brake lines weren't so good. First time is never a charm ... when Hexheads came along, the brake lines were metal protected teflon and the electrical system was CAN bus. No more cable ties either ... rubber straps instead.

Keeping an Oilhead going is a labor of love.

 

[PGlaves]

I have replaced those O rings many times and never did need to remove the valve cover to do so. With the fill plug removed the outer ring can be easily pried out using a broad screw driver. Once everything is cleaned up install the O rings and then put the fill plug into the outer ring. Then press the whole assembly in place. Once aligned and started a few taps with a rubber mallet will finish the installation.

 

[mhines]

It's just four bolts and two gaskets (the flat "outer" gasket, which IS directional, and the "cup" for the center post) per side... easy peasy. Maybe a little oil mess if you aren't prepared for it (a drain pan under the head).
But we do appreciate your willingness to admit some limitations (a la Clint Eastwood).
Teflon tape here just seems "iffy" to me... on the outer cap, you chance having a small bit drop into the oil if it breaks off (as when adding oil), and on the inner seal, you cannot really see and verify that the teflon has seated properly and that any excess isn't hanging down.

By the way, you can leave out the @ everywhere unless you're directly emailing somebody...

I'm intrigued. This is in fact at the outer limits of what I [a city kid who was sent to devoutly classical/liberal arts edu that eschewed any notion of wrenching anything] might attempt. I am still proud that I can perform oil changes and bolt stuff on and off. I have attempted brake pads with assistance from someone handier. It just is what it is, as much as I have read and appreciated Pirsig ultimately my mindset has always been - it was more efficient for me to work in my knowledge worker field and pay the experts to do anything significant [moreover anything which may quickly impact the health and survival of rider and machine]... all of this ultimately ended my 20-plus year love affair with Ducatis - I still own two but they, surprise, need work that transcends my skills, tooling and admittedly courage].

But, I'm still open to learning. I have never applied a gasket. Perhaps this will be my offseason experiment.

There's little doubt that the espoused quick fix using tape is a jury rig.

But it's Sept in NE, the end of season is nigh.

 

[AntonLargiader]

No need to remove the valve cover.

1) buy a new seat O-ring 11 14 1 340 901
2) remove the oil filler cap
3) pry out the plastic seat with a big, dull screwdriver
4) remove the O-ring from it, clean the seat and the hole in the valve cover
5) inspect it, look for the line where the two halves of the mold meet in the O-ring groove, and scrape away any step or burr in the plastic
6) Install new O-ring
7) lightly oil the hole and press the seat into place, observing the alignment tab.

This all takes about three minutes.

 

[fbt80]

"But it's Sept in NE, the end of season is nigh." Here in Florida our (more comfortable ) season is just starting...and Hurricanes.

 

[mhines]

No need to remove the valve cover.

1) buy a new seat O-ring 11 14 1 340 901
2) remove the oil filler cap
3) pry out the plastic seat with a big, dull screwdriver
4) remove the O-ring from it, clean the seat and the hole in the valve cover
5) inspect it, look for the line where the two halves of the mold meet in the O-ring groove, and scrape away any step or burr in the plastic
6) Install new O-ring
7) lightly oil the hole and press the seat into place, observing the alignment tab.

This all takes about three minutes.

Thanks very much!

 

[mhines]

No need to remove the valve cover.

1) buy a new seat O-ring 11 14 1 340 901
2) remove the oil filler cap
3) pry out the plastic seat with a big, dull screwdriver
4) remove the O-ring from it, clean the seat and the hole in the valve cover
5) inspect it, look for the line where the two halves of the mold meet in the O-ring groove, and scrape away any step or burr in the plastic
6) Install new O-ring
7) lightly oil the hole and press the seat into place, observing the alignment tab.

This all takes about three minutes.

I can in fact report that this was remarkably easy and appears to have greatly increased/improved the snugness of fitment on the filler cap. Parts were mighty cheap as well. Looking forward to testing the results but I'll be very surprised if this hasn't remedied the issue.

So, as always, the lesson for me here is:

-perhaps with a little smarts and investigation I could have troubleshooted without assistance
-this community pretty much always has the right solution if I do ask

Just going to try to keep doing and learning. Thanks.

 

[mhines]

I can in fact report that this was remarkably easy and appears to have greatly increased/improved the snugness of fitment on the filler cap. Parts were mighty cheap as well. Looking forward to testing the results but I'll be very surprised if this hasn't remedied the issue.

So, as always, the lesson for me here is:

-perhaps with a little smarts and investigation I could have troubleshooted without assistance
-this community pretty much always has the right solution if I do ask

Just going to try to keep doing and learning. Thanks.

No need to remove the valve cover.

1) buy a new seat O-ring 11 14 1 340 901
2) remove the oil filler cap
3) pry out the plastic seat with a big, dull screwdriver
4) remove the O-ring from it, clean the seat and the hole in the valve cover
5) inspect it, look for the line where the two halves of the mold meet in the O-ring groove, and scrape away any step or burr in the plastic
6) Install new O-ring
7) lightly oil the hole and press the seat into place, observing the alignment tab.

This all takes about three minutes.

350 miler yesterday with nary a drop of seepage from the oil filler cap proves that this worked perfectly, thanks Anton.

Matt

 

[fbt80]

Any R1100s brethren planning to attend to the Barber BMW Vintage days Oct. 11-13th.?
Hope to see you there.

So... , I thought I'd get some interest in the Barber vintage days event, but got nothing, nada...zip!. Then I notice something like 10-15 days ago that BMW didn't even have it on their event list. So I filled and submitted the event for BMW and now it's in the list, someone made a boo boo I guess. Anyway, I'll shoot some shots and stuff to share when I'm not drinking heavily.

 

[pauls1150]

So, it'll be a while...?

 

[fbt80]

So, it'll be a while...?

Oct.15th...ish

 

[fbt80]

Barber vintage days report
Took off the next day after the Hurricane passed Tampa and chased it up the coast until Georgia, got to Alabama late but on the same day I planned. I'll post some shots of the amazing Museum with over 1000 bikes on display later but wanted to post some stuff that is hush hush for only the design seminar attendees could look at. I wasn't sure I could blaze away with my GoPro and show the full size prototype, but could show a bit of the scale model and the Nylon printing machines that are capable of 3d printing a full scale racer out of nylon $$$$$$$$$$$ Apparently they have a complete design staff that explores next generation single-track vehicles and I'd imagine prints out prototypes for anyone who pays for it. Met Kenny Roberts (GP World Champion) there as well, he was donating his GP 500 championship winning Yamaha. Nice guy. Seminar host was a South African who had designed the Ducati 999.
More later...they had a beer garden.

 

[skibum69]

Fun fun! I finally got to Barber for the first time last summer.

 

[lkchris]

1100S has same fuel injectors as 1150s ... which are not same as other 1100s.

 

[fbt80]

New front spring R1100s:
Replaced the progressive wound spring on the front shock, It was 46/45/60-180 and replaced it with a straight wound 55 N/mm per Ted Porter and I need to do some more rebound/sag adjusting front and back, but I may have to take back almost all the bad things I've been saying about how it turns...it's that much better than before.

 

[fbt80]

2025 national rally.
In a fit of organizational grownupness I registered. I have high confidence that "Christine" will get me to Lebanon Tennessee and not leave me on the road crying like a little.... this time.

 

[fbt80]

Spark kill switch ideas for R1100s application.
Hello all, hope everyone had a great holiday. I want to be able to crank the engine, move the oil around prior to lighting up the engine. Of course the present OEM kill switch kills everything. Anybody try this and how?
Thanks Byron

 

[skibum69]

Can you put it in 6th and spin the rear wheel?

 

[51797]

The best might be to pull the spark plugs so there is no compression to crank against. You'll get a lot more speed out of the starter and it should circulate the oil quickly. You may figure out which fuse to pull to disable the ignition.

Frank