•  

    Welcome! You are currently logged out of the forum. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please LOG IN!

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the benefits of membership? If you click here, you have the opportunity to take us for a test ride at our expense. Enter the code 'FORUM25' in the activation code box to try the first year of the MOA on us!

     

R1100s models, repair information and related

My understanding is that that part of the starter assembly IS supposed to have a little bit of high-temp grease.
The top pulley is a maybe ... time to bring out the stethoscope.
 
I "wetted" the top bushing and the the gear faces with High temp. It looked like anything else would just attract more dirt quicker.
Re: the noise, it's coming from the top pulley, pretty sure. And then to read it in the manual as a thing it may do adds to the thought.
Hmmm, I work in healthcare so it would be easy to borrow a Steth.
 
Redkneck stethoscope = broom handle, long, pry-bar style screwdriver, metal rod. Placed in the suspect area and carefully positioned at your ear will allow almost pinpoint locating.
I have a BluePoint “mechanics” stethoscope but usually revert to the above redkneck (master mechanic) devices.
🛠️
OM
 
Hope she doesn't see that...
I like a long fat screwdriver with the handle against my ear, but I splurged and bought a Harbor Freight stethoscope - works fine.
 
Just breathe normally.
I just used a small scrap of pipe, and finger in the other ear. Worked great. Looked stupid. it's coming from the pulley area. I'll pull the cover and see what I find.
 
This weekend projects...I'll inspect my alt belt, and will finally Spiegler-tize the clutch line and drain line with speed bleeder. Then install a new slave, since I had all the parts kicking around and was too lazy to do it. Going to try it without removing the rear shock, just wheel, half the body work and inner fender. Not much room in there.

Actually proud of myself that I was able to remove the grub screw and dismantle BMW's propitiatory vacuum chunk without destroying it. The factory sure loves their Loctite. Knew I was replacing the whole affair and didn't need to...but I had to try :) I have very large crescent wrenches and PB Blaster and am not afraid to use them.
BTW, that " Clutch & Brake Bleed screw is over $70 for one. from EME.

Clutch & Brake Caliper Bleed Screw​
 
Last edited:
I'll collect parts ( on sale) for some job I know I'll do in the future. Clutch fluid has been in there for almost 3 years and I knew it needed to be flushed and changed, so that's what started it.
You have bar backs. Nice.
 
My weekend. Slave switchout, and clutch lines, and filter clean, and regrease pivots ...
Shot 1. Strip the bike.
Shot 2. Take all this stuff off
Shot 3. Oh, there it is.
Shot 4. ...seen worse.
Shot 5. ...ahh, no I haven't!!
Shot 6. ...and of course plumbed the opposite as the manual.
Shot7. ...what's that sh#$@
Shot 8. ...ummm. seal in back looked good. The rest looked like poo.
Shot. 9. I've seen that before, cooked DOT 4, cleaned it up with break cleaner and scotchbrite.
Shot 10. pulled the old unit out with all it's lines filled and attached. This is how I did it.
Shot. 11. bleeding time.
Shot 12. Bearing was toast in the slave.
Shot. 13. Bore of slave was not scared, so piston had not begun to spin...just leak...lucky me.

Clutch was so smooth after that, I didn't think I had blead enough. Ziptied the lever back over dinner to allow the last bubbles to float to the master.
So, that slave was original and so were the over-torqued banjo bolts on it. 33k on the clock. Switch this thing out if you get the chance before it pollutes your clutch.

Also, there's something in one of the shots that shouldn't be there, can you find it? Merry Christmas y'all.
Byron
 

Attachments

  • Shot 12.jpg
    Shot 12.jpg
    628.5 KB · Views: 15
  • Shot 11.jpg
    Shot 11.jpg
    966.7 KB · Views: 16
  • Shot 10.jpg
    Shot 10.jpg
    757.5 KB · Views: 17
  • Shot 9.jpg
    Shot 9.jpg
    887 KB · Views: 17
  • Shot 8.jpg
    Shot 8.jpg
    851 KB · Views: 18
  • Shot 7.jpg
    Shot 7.jpg
    823 KB · Views: 17
  • Shot 6.jpg
    Shot 6.jpg
    625.6 KB · Views: 18
  • Shot 5.jpg
    Shot 5.jpg
    796.3 KB · Views: 17
  • Shot 4.jpg
    Shot 4.jpg
    914.1 KB · Views: 17
  • Shot 3.jpg
    Shot 3.jpg
    955.4 KB · Views: 17
  • Shot 2.jpg
    Shot 2.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 17
  • Shot 1.jpg
    Shot 1.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 16
  • Shot 13.jpg
    Shot 13.jpg
    791.6 KB · Views: 15
Last edited:
I'll borrow the one my wife uses for transportation.
BC, when you put on the GS torque arm, how did you get to the forward nut to loosen and tighten it? I bought a used 2016 1200GS arm and couldn't find a wrench to get to the forward inside nut. Gave up for now. How did you do it? Looks like I'd need to drop the cat and back exhaust.
 
BC, when you put on the GS torque arm, how did you get to the forward nut to loosen and tighten it? I bought a used 2016 1200GS arm and couldn't find a wrench to get to the forward inside nut. Gave up for now. How did you do it? Looks like I'd need to drop the cat and back exhaust.
It was so many years ago that for the life of me I can't recall which tools I needed. I DO know that I didn't have any issues and didn't need to remove any ancillary parts to install the torque arm. One thing I did do when mounting the GS arm was put the centrestand on a 2" block to allow for the additional swingarm droop.

BUT....I'm not sure that a 2016 R1200GS torque arm will fit. Different rear suspension set up, is it not?

Subsequently, I DID remove the cat and replaced it with a Danmoto cat eliminator pipe which connects to the stock mufflers. Easy way to lose 10 pounds and a nice mellow tone. Not sure if those are still available.

Sorry, not much help today but....Merry Christmas!
 
Last edited:
It was so many years ago that for the life of me I can't recall which tools I needed. I DO know that I didn't have any issues and didn't need to remove any ancillary parts to install the torque arm. One thing I did do when mounting the GS arm was put the centrestand on a 2" block to allow for the additional swingarm droop.

BUT....I'm not sure that a 2016 R1200GS torque arm will fit. Different rear suspension set up, is it not?

Subsequently, I DID remove the cat and replaced it with a Danmoto cat eliminator pipe which connects to the stock mufflers. Easy way to lose 10 pounds and a nice mellow tone. Not sure if those are still available.

Sorry, not much help today but....Merry Christmas!
Great, that tells me what I suspected. The torque arm will fit, but not sure it is any shorter.
Update, the arm is the same stock length, back it goes.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top