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R1100s models, repair information and related

With great diagnostic advice from JugHead the issue was found and a theory devised. Newly installed after-market fuel pump draws more amperage than the stock 15amp fuel relay can handle, thus disconnecting the fuel pump at startup. Solution installed a 30amp relay and it seems problem is solved. I guess along with considerable drama and cash, and 2 towing experiences. I did find a failing fuel pump, a Hall sensor ready to short out and a new friend in South Africa.
I truly believe this is now the most sorted R1100s that is running today...and I don't trust it a mile from the house.

Very cool!
Thanks for the follow up.

OM
 
I truly believe this is now the most sorted R1100s that is running today...and I don't trust it a mile from the house.


It sucks that you had to do so much troubleshooting and repair... and missing the rally/vaca is a huge bummer. Super glad that you are now sorted. Hopefully this isn't a bike that just needs a lot of fixing... we all know that with used machines sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you do not.

I would say that I regularly take my R1100s on 6-700mi loops with no issues. Knocking wood here, but have done 15k miles since late 2020 on a 20 year old bike and my only major service issue was THE big service [splitting the cases and servicing the clutch - hastened by a failing main seal that sat too long and dried out under previous ownership].

So far my impression is that with a commensurate level of service, these bikes are fairly reliable.

Fingers crossed that you've turned a corner with this one!
 
Happily mine is back on the road after my little getoff.
IMG_8566-XL.jpg
 
R1100s running again

It sucks that you had to do so much troubleshooting and repair... and missing the rally/vaca is a huge bummer. Super glad that you are now sorted. Hopefully this isn't a bike that just needs a lot of fixing... we all know that with used machines sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you do not.

I would say that I regularly take my R1100s on 6-700mi loops with no issues. Knocking wood here, but have done 15k miles since late 2020 on a 20 year old bike and my only major service issue was THE big service [splitting the cases and servicing the clutch - hastened by a failing main seal that sat too long and dried out under previous ownership].

So far my impression is that with a commensurate level of service, these bikes are fairly reliable.

Fingers crossed that you've turned a corner with this one!

I've planned a short trip to St. Augustine during Labor day, wife will shadow in the truck, with a receiver hitch front wheel towing thing stowed in the back. That'll be about 500+miles round trip, if that is trouble-free then I'm on my own. I have the parts for "THE BIG ONE" and hope not to do that anytime soon.
Thanks for good thoughts.
B.
 
I've planned a short trip to St. Augustine during Labor day, wife will shadow in the truck, with a receiver hitch front wheel towing thing stowed in the back.

Are you referring to one of those “front wheel high, rear wheel on the pavement-spinning” towing deals?

I think this has been discussed before and if I remember correctly, it was discouraged. Maybe someone will remember the discussion.

OM
 
Are you referring to one of those “front wheel high, rear wheel on the pavement-spinning” towing deals?

I think this has been discussed before and if I remember correctly, it was discouraged. Maybe someone will remember the discussion.

OM

Yup, it rolls on the rear. It could be dicey if for some reason it slips into gear. I could possibly tow backwards. I wonder how the speedo works, I don't think it's gear driven...is it?
With power off, I don't think it functions. I'm betting magnetic sensor.
 
Yup, it rolls on the rear. It could be dicey if for some reason it slips into gear. I could possibly tow backwards. I wonder how the speedo works, I don't think it's gear driven...is it?
With power off, I don't think it functions. I'm betting magnetic sensor.

Yeah……I thought it was because of a “reverse” pre-load as the drive was reversed…..or something like that.

I would not do it with shaft-drive, but that’s just me.

OM
 
Yeah……I thought it was because of a “reverse” pre-load as the drive was reversed…..or something like that.

I would not do it with shaft-drive, but that’s just me.

OM

Well, if it strands me one more time, I'll crawl to the back window and cut the straps when the coast is clear...:evil
 
Christine did it again

Bike is officially now known as "Christine" Completed 210mile shot out to St. Augustine...followed by backup Truck and tow device with no problems. Return within 118 miles of home, died at a light, all my spare relays and even my jumper did not bring the fuel pump back online. Put it in the garage and will look at it some day when I'm bored and want to be ridiculed by an inanimate object.
 
...she's back!!!

Unbelievable, Christine fixed herself over night and the pump works and bike starts and runs...did nothing other than parked it. Sooooo, heat is the trigger. I let it run in place as I did a GS-911 check and sure enough the bike after 8ish minutes on idle dies, jumper on the 12v side of the relay does nothing, no power. So heat affects component or components upstream of the relays. Park the bike overnight, bike starts next day. If the HES wasn't new I'd look there, but it is. On to the sidestand switch, I'll bridge it and try and make it fail again.
 
Christine has issues

..wire hunting. A confirmed connection break between fuse box and the left relay box (fuel relay)...boy this will be fun, I'm going to dismantle the entire box to get underneath it and check connections, then move up the wires to the fuse box, it's in there somewhere. BTW, if this is too painful to hear about all the time just post STOP and I'll just let you know when it's fixed. Figured what I'm doing and how I find the issue can provide insight to my brothers and sisters.
 
..BTW, if this is too painful to hear about all the time just post STOP and I'll just let you know when it's fixed. Figured what I'm doing and how I find the issue can provide insight to my brothers and sisters.

KEEP POSTING

[along with great FYI it makes sitting on long work Zooms with engineers debating demo environment modifications infinitely more interesting - not that I don't LOVE a great demo]

:clap
 
Unbelievable, Christine fixed herself over night and the pump works and bike starts and runs...did nothing other than parked it. Sooooo, heat is the trigger. I let it run in place as I did a GS-911 check and sure enough the bike after 8ish minutes on idle dies, jumper on the 12v side of the relay does nothing, no power. So heat affects component or components upstream of the relays. Park the bike overnight, bike starts next day. If the HES wasn't new I'd look there, but it is. On to the sidestand switch, I'll bridge it and try and make it fail again.

Hall Effect Sensor still not good? Start it and hit it with a hair dryer and see if it dies, let it cool and repeat.

I wouldn't assume that it's good if you're still having heat related failure.
 
Hes

Hall Effect Sensor still not good? Start it and hit it with a hair dryer and see if it dies, let it cool and repeat.

I wouldn't assume that it's good if you're still having heat related failure.

I have already replaced the HES. It had disintegrating wiring so replaced with one that has super silicon coated wires etc. But yeah, it kinda acts like a bad HES.
Now knowing multiple problems can mask as one , right now I know there is a break in the wiring between the Fuse box (left one) and the relay box (left one). So that's next...thank god it's only about a foot of wire to go thru but a lot of disassembly of the relay box to get at the connectors underneath.

As for heat cause, I was wrong, because it turned off the pump on a cold bike as well and all I did was turn it on. So the break has responded to heat and disconnects and responds to energizing by disconnecting as well.
 
If you can actually find & prove the broken/damaged wire it may be simpler and less effort to run a new wire in parallel to test and confirm that this is the issue.

I have seen this in the Marine industry where a section of wire has corroded in the jacket and not carried enough current for the load.
 
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I have already replaced the HES. It had disintegrating wiring so replaced with one that has super silicon coated wires etc. But yeah, it kinda acts like a bad HES.
Now knowing multiple problems can mask as one , right now I know there is a break in the wiring between the Fuse box (left one) and the relay box (left one). So that's next...thank god it's only about a foot of wire to go thru but a lot of disassembly of the relay box to get at the connectors underneath.

As for heat cause, I was wrong, because it turned off the pump on a cold bike as well and all I did was turn it on. So the break has responded to heat and disconnects and responds to energizing by disconnecting as well.

Although rare, I have had the actual sensors themselves be heat sensitive and stop functioning only to resume when cooled.
It's happened to me on one of my rewired units that passed all the tests on the rotating tester including the heat test to 300f.
Issue only showed up a couple months later after quite a few miles.
 
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