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R1100s models, repair information and related

Hey now, no fair stealing my line.:nono

What I'd like to know is what ever happened to...."Simple by choice". Guess it went out with the baby's proverbial bath water. I wonder if BMW ever fired the genius that came up with that ABS system on the R1150? Nawwww, probably project manager on the wethead program. Hey, you gotta see the humor here.:boldpurpl

I'm in rare form this morning.

I'll defend the iABS system on my '04 RT as having been completely reliable (129k miles). Overkill? Probably. But it has saved me countless times with numerous deer and other critters.
 
Rubber hoses

If you have the original rubber brake lines get rid of them NOW. Not tomorrow. NOW. Speigler makes excellent replacements as do other suppliers. The brake system is VERY reliable (including the servo assisted ones) as long as the rubber lines haven't yet disintegrated from the inside. Yearly flushing is mandatory. Alternator belts are easy to change. Just be methodical. Clutch slave cylinders? See above on brake maintenance.

Replacing the left side cam chain tensioner is also a must and dead easy to do.

Second the replacement of OEM brake hoses with stainless right away. The rubber ones age badly and will cause problems...kinda like my ex wife :brow
 
I've gotten as far as doing valve checks on my 1100 S. As soon as I can afford the rebuild kit I will be doing the carbs on my new to me '83 R100 RS. I've never been into a Bing carb. How bad can it be? Thankfully Snowbum has some in depth articles on the process.
I just rebuilt the carbs on an R80. Was not difficult and not terribly expensive.
 
I was already planning to replace my brake lines with longer ones to install bar backs. With 95K km's on mine it's been solid. No idea what 2 previous owners did for replacements etc. It had 90K on it when I got it.
 
brakelines

LOL, my ex is also a PITA. :)

Thankfully original owner upgraded the brake lines... and they're blue!

...don't forget replace the clutch lines, both to the lever and out to that goofy drain/fill line ziptied somewhere on the left side of the rear frame...if you have hydraulic of course.
 
...don't forget replace the clutch lines, both to the lever and out to that goofy drain/fill line ziptied somewhere on the left side of the rear frame...if you have hydraulic of course.

Yeah, luckily for me the original owner did a lot of the must-have mods, then never rode the thing.

Touched base with Max's Friday and they've got just about everything on here in hand. Cannot wait to ride. :clap
 
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road trip

Yeah, luckily for me the original owner did a lot of the must-have mods, then never rode the thing.

Touched base with Max's Friday and they've got just about everything on here in hand. Cannot wait to ride. :clap

Looks like you'll be all set for a trip to Richmond in June? ...;)
 
Looks like you'll be all set for a trip to Richmond in June? ...;)

Gametime decision, unfortunately. It's the heart of both HS baseball and softball seasons and I've got one on each team this year.

My season is highly tactical until sometime in July when "Spring" sports finally give way to summer.

But you never know!
 
R1100s intermittent dash warning lamp

So, I finally have a problem, kinda happy (in a sick way) to have one. Electrical, intermittently (once a month at best) the dash warning light comes on, GS-911 sez it's a rear brake light failure, brake light is always working, integrated abs pump and all brakes always okay when I check. Rekey and it goes away only to reappear maybe in a month.

Full transparency: I've converted the rear light to LED, runs through a capacitor ext. ...and I have inline a fancy programable rear brake flashy device...have I just answered my own question? This system has been trouble-free since install a year ago.
B.
 
So, I finally have a problem, kinda happy (in a sick way) to have one. Electrical, intermittently (once a month at best) the dash warning light comes on, GS-911 sez it's a rear brake light failure, brake light is always working, integrated abs pump and all brakes always okay when I check. Rekey and it goes away only to reappear maybe in a month.

Full transparency: I've converted the rear light to LED, runs through a capacitor ext. ...and I have inline a fancy programable rear brake flashy device...have I just answered my own question? This system has been trouble-free since install a year ago.
B.

Is the “fancy programmable rear brake flashy device” an external add-on item, or one that replaces the OEM turn signal relay? What brand/model of device?

Best,
DeVern
 
vizi-tec supabrake light modulator

Is the “fancy programmable rear brake flashy device” an external add-on item, or one that replaces the OEM turn signal relay? What brand/model of device?

Best,
DeVern

It was a vizi-tec modulator externally spliced in and using the existing relay.
https://www.vizi-tec.com/shop/supabrake/
Also for FYI, the iABS fault code is : • Gen ON, ABS off = Tail light/brake light defective.
I guess I could look at the both brake switches as well.
 
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I have several LEDs within my rear tail and brake light assembly ('04 1150RT), and while my warning lights don't come on (perhaps my total current draw is within the window that the computer expects), it will show a fault with a GS-911.

Simple test: put the incandescent(s) back in and see if it clears the warning lights.

What is a "capacitor extension"??? Never heard of it and can't think of a reason for it.
 
I have several LEDs within my rear tail and brake light assembly ('04 1150RT), and while my warning lights don't come on (perhaps my total current draw is within the window that the computer expects), it will show a fault with a GS-911.

Simple test: put the incandescent(s) back in and see if it clears the warning lights.

What is a "capacitor extension"??? Never heard of it and can't think of a reason for it.

Good thought, I wonder if the resistor brings the current down to much that it triggers the relay into thinking the bulb is blown. Oh "extension" got auto spelled from etc.
 
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