Wheel Bearing Replacement - Snowflakes

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

After the interior is secure and the screw heads are expanded, the outer tool spacer is slid over the inner tool acting as a brace or foundation. Then the outer block is secured and the nut is tightened which pulls the entire center tool attached to the back of the outer race out of the hub.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Here is the outer race still attached to the tool.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Another shot of the puller tool with the race attached...

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

And, the entire front bearing assembly. Lt & Rt is as you're sitting on the bike.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Time for a change...

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Here's a shot of the inner spacer with the two nylon rings.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake cont...

Finished up the project this weekend and the results were more successful than anticipated. I'll close up this thread with some remaining pictures and info in hopes of not putting any of you to sleep.

I decided to remove the rotor for protection and a chance to clean up the bore holes with a 30 cal. gun barrel bruch. Makes quick work of the gunk that builds up and also will replace the M8's and Nylock nuts.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Here's the completed rotor - time consuming but a great opportunity to do the work. I used 320 grit wrapped around a kitchen sponge for the actual rotor surface, blew dry and cleaned with Acetone.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Time to install the outer races. I would have preferred to use a press, unfortunately I don't have one and was committed to doing the entire project myself. The front hubs are steeled lined and no heating is required. Here's the bare hub, cleaned and lying flat with a hardwood backing under the opposing side of the hub for backup.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

I did freeze the outer races and carefully selected a 1.5" OD tool that precisely matched the 40mm OD race without contacting the inner hub. It worked quite well and I found inserting the front wheel races much less stressful than the rear. I used a hardwood block and plastic hammer to get the race flush with the hub - then finished with the 1.5" tool. Careful not to cock the race - take your time and use care getting started. You will know it when the outer race is home against the inner steel spacer. The feeling and sound is obvious.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Here's a look at the new right side outer race installed. Don't let the markings on the face misguide you - that's just light oil marks from the cage.

Time to flip and do the other side.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Repet the same excercise on the other side of the wheel. DO NOT forget to drop in the inner spacer BEFORE you install the remaining outer race. The front inner spacer unlike the rear inner spacer does not have a left or right side with a recess. It's the same on both sides and can be inserted either way.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Here's the installation of the remaining outer race for the left side. That is actually a 1.5" fire hose collar I'm using. It worked fine. I liked the 1.5" OD socket better.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Both new outer races are now installed with the inner spacer in-between, inside the hub.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Time to clean and lightly oil the assembly and do the pre-load check. Assemble the cages and wedding band on the left side along with the appropriate axle spacers to apply tension.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Here's a shot of the wedding band and assortment of 0.05mm shims. I knew I would have to add shimming since I hand milled the ends of the wedding band and the inner spacer to achiieve a nice smooth contact point on both. Anal maybe but the results were very consistent. I removed almost 0.20mm combined from both the wedding band and inner spacer but I was able to achieve a nice positive glass edge on both.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Here's the shims, wedding band, and new cage roller ready for securing and pre-load test.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Here's a shot of the axle spacers that allow tension on the entire bearing stack and permit the pre-load test to start. My target was to achieve pre-load at 20 Ft-lb of torque. And maintaining the same feel up to no more than 35 Ft-lb. Correct pre-load is reached when there is no lash in the bearing stack and you are able to acquire smooth axial movement with as little restriction and tension as possible on the bearings - but still have lash or "slop" in the bearings and axle. Secure the wheel, grab each end of the axle and push-pull to feel for slop. And turn the axle for feel. Some use the pull-handle method, I don't find it necessary. If you feel slop you want to remove shims or mill the wedding band. If the axle is tight - you need to add shims to the inner spacer or install a wider wedding band. Use small increments. The difference between good and not good can be the matter of less than 0.05mm!

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

I used increments of ??5 Ft-lbs starting at 15 Ft-lb. Stopping and checking the axle after each stage.

Remember the final test is the wiggle test with the wheel installed and pinch bolts secured. Secure the front end with a helper, grab the wheel at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position and wiggle. If you can not hear or feel slop (lash) between 20 and 30 Ft-lb., you're there.

 

[30064]

Front 78 Snowflake

Now for the top-hats and grease seals. Apply just a dab of oil or grease on the contact surface where the seal wipers are in contact of the top hat and spread evenly.