-
Welcome! You are currently logged out of the forum. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please LOG IN!If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the benefits of membership? If you click here, you have the opportunity to take us for a test ride at our expense. Enter the code 'FORUM25' in the activation code box to try the first year of the MOA on us!
Wheel Bearing Replacement - Snowflakes
- Thread starter 30064
- Start date
GeorgeRyals
New member
Heat to disassemble/assemble Stuff
I have had great success on transmission covers using a rectangular 500 Watt body shop shop light. I haven't tried it on wheels yet. You can get it set up close to the item/area to be heated, turn it on and go do other things for 20-25 minutes. It'll get spit sizzling as needed in about that time. No open flame and you don't have to be there the whole time.
I have had great success on transmission covers using a rectangular 500 Watt body shop shop light. I haven't tried it on wheels yet. You can get it set up close to the item/area to be heated, turn it on and go do other things for 20-25 minutes. It'll get spit sizzling as needed in about that time. No open flame and you don't have to be there the whole time.
I think that's all you do...similar seal on the /7 wire wheels. Use something to hook the inside edge of the top hat, either a screwdriver or 90-degree screwdriver. You could also rig up a slide hammer to catch the top hat and then use it to pull out the seal.
30064
Mike V. #30064
Thanks George,
The heating process in retrospect was the weak link in my procedure and even though it can be accomplished with simple propane torches; the heat transfer properties flew above my radar and was a big lesson learned. And a point I want to get across to anyone attempting this. Next time - the tire and tube will be removed. Maybe the use af a digital thermometer to better monitor the temperature, not crazy about the spit-test and a temperature of ??210?? really is essential. Just makes extraction and mostly re-insertion of the bearing stack easier and defending against any harm to the bearing stack or hub.
30064
Mike V. #30064
Kurt,
Appreciate the help. That's what I imagine after close inspection of the front wheel. And, I'm assuming the bearings and races are extracted with a puller of some sort out of each side of the wheel? Heating again for the front? If so, the tire, tube, and rotor are coming off first.
When I was doing my /7 bearings, the whole set was removed as a stack. Putting the axle in the opposite side IIRC along with the spacer to allow the wheel nut to be snugged up. Then after the appropriate amount of heat, use the hammer to pound out the stack.
As you've seen, the reverse is freezing the stack and almost just dropping it in to the heated hub.
Hmmm...I've been thinking about this...I probably have something wrong on the front wheels as there's no trapped bearing like the rear wheel. I guess you have to remove one of the races with a regular puller so the innards can be removed. Scratching my head, trying to remember...
Last edited:
30064
Mike V. #30064
Ahh, thanks for the edit Kurt...you have company in the head-scratching department. I have some feelers out about the front bearing process. I have time, had to cancel my cross country trip this year (tears).
Good news is; our Land Surveying Business just landed a large project since 8 months of nothing.
These 78 snowflakes are quite specific I'm finding out since things were different up to 78 and from early 79 on...
Good news is; our Land Surveying Business just landed a large project since 8 months of nothing.
These 78 snowflakes are quite specific I'm finding out since things were different up to 78 and from early 79 on...
30064
Mike V. #30064
Kurt,
That's my assumption also from what I've researched. I have the Cycle Works bearing tools which I believe will do the job. if not, I may invest in the Kukko puller.
Here's a picture of Dan Neiner's (Cycle Works) bearing tool.
Thanks for all the info!
That's my assumption also from what I've researched. I have the Cycle Works bearing tools which I believe will do the job. if not, I may invest in the Kukko puller.
Here's a picture of Dan Neiner's (Cycle Works) bearing tool.
Thanks for all the info!
Attachments
30064
Mike V. #30064
Old Rear Bearings...
I wanted to show you guys what my old rear bearings looked like, this is after they've been cleaned in solvent. Service your wheel bearings regularly. Don't trust anyone other than yourself for this procedure unless you have nothing less than 100% confidence in the person/shop doing the work.
I wanted to show you guys what my old rear bearings looked like, this is after they've been cleaned in solvent. Service your wheel bearings regularly. Don't trust anyone other than yourself for this procedure unless you have nothing less than 100% confidence in the person/shop doing the work.
Attachments
30064
Mike V. #30064
Front 78 Snowflake
On to bigger and better things >>> I started on the front wheel today. Lots of poking and prodding, inspection. I was able to remove both grease seals quite easily with my trusty HF slide hammer and attachments. I'm thinking with the Cycle Works bearing puller the races will be able to be removed without heat. (the jury is still out on that idea). But installation of the renewed races and bearings will require the removal of the front rotor and applied heat again. Much less mass on the front snowflake and I'm hoping the loss and migration of heat along the spokes will be much less than the rear wheel.
On to bigger and better things >>> I started on the front wheel today. Lots of poking and prodding, inspection. I was able to remove both grease seals quite easily with my trusty HF slide hammer and attachments. I'm thinking with the Cycle Works bearing puller the races will be able to be removed without heat. (the jury is still out on that idea). But installation of the renewed races and bearings will require the removal of the front rotor and applied heat again. Much less mass on the front snowflake and I'm hoping the loss and migration of heat along the spokes will be much less than the rear wheel.
Attachments
Last edited:
30064
Mike V. #30064
Front 78 Snowflake
Started on the front snowflake last night. I discovered the hub has a steel liner so no heat and no hammers. The old bearings looked in much better shape than the rear and even though there's no brinelling or rust the races looked only slightly discolored and he cage rollers minimally scored. I could probably just pack and go but I have new bearings in hand and will replace.
Started on the front snowflake last night. I discovered the hub has a steel liner so no heat and no hammers. The old bearings looked in much better shape than the rear and even though there's no brinelling or rust the races looked only slightly discolored and he cage rollers minimally scored. I could probably just pack and go but I have new bearings in hand and will replace.
Attachments
Last edited:
30064
Mike V. #30064
30064
Mike V. #30064
Front 78 Snowflake
Tonight the races came out of the front snowflake with the handy Cycle Works bearing tool. Nice tool. Tightening the center stud with the tool inserted behind the race expands the screw heads behind the back side of the race.
Tonight the races came out of the front snowflake with the handy Cycle Works bearing tool. Nice tool. Tightening the center stud with the tool inserted behind the race expands the screw heads behind the back side of the race.
Attachments
Last edited:
30064
Mike V. #30064
Front 78 Snowflake
After the interior portion of the tool is secure and the screw heads are expanded, the circular outer tool spacer is slid over the inner tool acting as a brace or foundation. Then the outer block is secured and the nut is tightened which pulls the entire center tool attached to the back of the outer race out of the hub and through the tool collar.
After the interior portion of the tool is secure and the screw heads are expanded, the circular outer tool spacer is slid over the inner tool acting as a brace or foundation. Then the outer block is secured and the nut is tightened which pulls the entire center tool attached to the back of the outer race out of the hub and through the tool collar.
Attachments
Last edited:
