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Smashed Spark plug...

Installed new spark plug wire and the bike starts fine now...
Both left and right throttle cables i have at zero.. when i try to do a throttle sync and hook up the manometer...pressure is way off...right side pressure is low, allowing the fluid to flow up to the top of the tube...trying to tighten the right throttle cable to open the throttle and decrease the vacuum sorta works, but then the bike starts to cough and sound terrible , like it is out of sync.. reset both cables back to zero and the bike sounds and runs better...
Perplexed... Valves? Injectors?
 
1. Bike does not seem to idle very well ...rough like throttles out of sync.
2. Idles at about 800-900 rpm... even turning BBS out.
3. Adjusted valves again on both sides. Right side seemed harder to adjust compared to the left side.
4. took off Left side Fuel Injector and did a spray through cleaning , seem to have a good pattern.
5. Pulled out injector while bike running at idle and there was fuel spray..
6. bike still rough...low idle..
7 Right side cylinder running much more hotter than left side .
 
Sounds like some progress. If I understand correctly you installed the new wire set, set your throttle cable to zero, BBS set at two turns out and then it started fine but runs rough. Assuming the valves are set relatively close, then possibly you have a vacuum leak where the throttle body mounts to the head or somewhere else. This would throw your vacuum / Manometer way off, and cause a real lean mixture on the cylinder where the leak is. You mentioned one side is much hotter at the exhaust, possibly indicating that is the lean cylinder.

I'm not familiar with the sync procedure of the GS as mine is a 96 RT and probably much different.
 
Sounds like some progress. If I understand correctly you installed the new wire set, set your throttle cable to zero, BBS set at two turns out and then it started fine but runs rough. Assuming the valves are set relatively close, then possibly you have a vacuum leak where the throttle body mounts to the head or somewhere else. This would throw your vacuum / Manometer way off, and cause a real lean mixture on the cylinder where the leak is. You mentioned one side is much hotter at the exhaust, possibly indicating that is the lean cylinder.

I'm not familiar with the sync procedure of the GS as mine is a 96 RT and probably much different.

I will check the throttle body mounts for leakage..

I am also going to try switching the Fuel Injectors and see what that does..

I wish there was an easier way of testing them... Taking them out and applying voltage while spraying cleaner through them is not very acurate!
 
Checked the throttle body mounts for anything that could cause leakage... tightened all clamps up
Switched fuel injectors
Replaced o-rings on both BBS
Right Cylinder still running hot/lean... exhaust at the pipe is very hot
Could the external part of the valves in the intake and exhaust chambers be fouled?
Could this be causing the valves to not open correctly even though they are adjusted to spec?
Thinking of doing a valve cleaning procedure... spray though throttle body while engine running
 
I think you’re flailing just a bit here. A glowing exhaust pipe on an oilhead is usually attributable to excess fuel being dumped in. Riders who set off on a ride without making sure the start enrichment (high idle) lever at the handlebar was fully disengaged would find glowing pipes at their next stop. So, from your description of how the bike is running and what’s happening, and assuming that valve clearances have been properly set and ignition timing checked/set I would be tempted to go back and re-verify that the throttle cables are set correctly and that the “high idle” lever and mechanism is correctly adjusted and is not hanging up or failing to release fully. Just a thought,

Best,
DeVern
 
Well... this may be the end...
Was doing a valve clean...spraying CRC Intake valve cleaner in the throttle body while the bike was at 2k rpms and after about 5 min , there was some banging and sounds like something was clunking/knocking around in the engine.
This was a "turn off the bike as fast as you can sound"! Did not sound very good! Sounded Terrible! Like a "time to bury the horse " sound!
Well , when the bike cools down i will roll it into the garage and disassemble the right side and see if i can see what was making the noise... spark plug? Broken Valve? Cylinder bearing?
:banghead
 
Last edited:
Well... this may be the end...
Was doing a valve clean...spraying valve cleaner in the throttle body while the bile was at 2k rmps and after about 5 min , there was some banging and sounds like something was clunking/knocking around in the engine.
This was a "turn off the bike as fast as you can sound"! Did not sound very good! Sounded Terrible! Like a "time to bury the horse " sound!
Well , when the bike cools down i will roll it into the garage and disassemble the right side and see if i can see what was making the noise... spark plug? Broken Valve? Cylinder bearing?
:banghead

What brand of what chemical were you spraying when you overheated the engine?
 
So i pulled out the right spark plug and looks good... preparing to take apart that side and have a look inside..
go to pull the exhaust off and ...... the allen bolt for the clamp holding the exhaust pipe to the muffler strips out! Damn! Nothing is easy!
So i cut that bolt off so i can take the exhaust pipe off, go around to the other side to take off the nuts holding the exhaust on..and I think " well , might as well take out the other spark plug and check it...
Plug is hard to get out...thought i might have cross threaded it putting it in, but i dont remember it going in hard... get it out and....

Picture 10.jpg
Picture 14.jpg
Picture 16.jpg

WTF!?!?
In addition, i probably stripped the plug hole threads now!
 
Also the top blew off of one of my spark plugs( not sure which side) in 2015 on the way back from dallas... towed the bike back home...took apart the engine and everything looked good inside the cylinder
replaced the plugs and rode it since then...9K miles
 
Plug is hard to get out...thought i might have cross threaded it putting it in, but i dont remember it going in hard... get it out and....

WTF!?!?

The CRC Intake Valve Cleaner is strong stuff!

(A little levity - you're gonna need it)
 
I am back ! After a 2 month Hiatus due to a hot May here in Nevada ...and mostly due to dejection and fear of what i might find after the last odyssey...
I decided to open up the bike today...removed the exhaust pipe and metal dropping out..
loosened and backed off the throttle assembly... more metal
Tried to TDC the engine to start to take off the head , and unable to turn the engine only a little to center it...tried front with a wrench and also bumping the wheel.. nope
Looked in the spark plug hole and it did not look pretty..something has shattered..ugh!
So i can not TDC it, so i guess i should just zip tie the timing chain as is and go ahead and open up the Cylinder head and see what mess is inside..
Was looking for a conformation of this before i proceed ...especially with me unable to TDC the motor..
:banghead
 
I don't always save the TDC when I open one up. The BMW repair manual is very clear about what correct timing is, and for me it's not that hard to set it from scratch later on. Just go for it and we can get you to TDC at the end of it.
 
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