How to Break in Your New Motorcycle Tires

[nelliott]

Seems like good advice...

How to Break in Your New Motorcycle Tires

When it's time to replace your motorcycle tires, you'll probably notice a warning label on the new treads. Something like, “Do not assume an aggressive riding style for the first 200km, you moron.” Well, it should really be taken seriously. And there’s even a few ways you can do it faster, better and safer.

In case you're wondering, the problem stems from the manufacturing process. When pressing moulds, some manufacturers use a silicone-based release agent to keep the rubber from sticking. And if this wasn't slippery enough, the rubber itself contains special chemicals to help it flow smoothly and uniformly. All this results in a nice glossy finish, which is totally sexy until you’re sliding across the asphalt wondering what went wrong.

"Scrubbing in" is also important for longevity. Motorcycle tires are made from various materials, which are designed to work together under heat and strain. By taking it easy for the first few kilometers, you'll allow these materials to set into each other without doing any damage.

There are plenty of tips for dealing with this break-in period. Here are five of the good ones.

Don’t weave around

"If I'm scrubbing in motorcycle tires, I should swerve like a madman to generate more heat, right?"

Wrong.

I know you've seen racers do it on TV, but you’re not Valentino Rossi, are you? His treads are already scalding hot from the tire warmers, and he’s trying to keep them that way. Your motorcycle tires are cold as hell and – rather than warming them up – you’re just going to fall over.

Drive slow figure-8’s

Consider it an opportunity to re-live your Drivers-Ed youth. Find a parking lot and make slow turns, counter-leaning your body to increase the turn angle of the motorcycle. This is the safe way to scrub in the edges of your motorcycle tires. Barrelling into a corner and hoping for the best, is not.

Wait it out

When the manufacturers say 200km, they really mean it. Maybe you just bought a brand-new racing purebred, and moseying around like a frightened child isn't what you envisioned for the first ride. But be patient – dragging the pegs can wait.

I know a gung-ho goonie, who rubbed sandpaper against his motorcycle tires in an attempt to "speed up" the process. Needless to say, this is an exceptionally dimwitted idea. The geniuses at Pirelli spent countless man-hours engineering their tires to perform through specific wear patterns. An impatient bloke with some 60-grit is not what they had in mind.

Pick your battles

There’s not much point in breaking in your motorcycle tires when it’s cold and rainy out. Sure, your odometer will click closer to that 200km threshold of freedom. But your motorcycle tires won’t be much better for it.

If you can, do your purgatory time during warm, dry weather. This way, your treads will get grippier in a shorter amount of time. If you live in Vancouver – or some other subaquatic city – you might consider putting 250km on your motorcycle tires before cutting loose.

Dive in feet first

When you hit the 200km mark, don’t go peeling out of your driveway like a scalded cat.

Instead, cruise around the block until your motorcycle tires are warm to the touch. Then, feel free to cut loose a little. If there are still slippery parts on the edge of your motorcycle tires, the warmth will help you scrub them in without sliding.

We know these tips are tough to follow – getting new motorcycle tires is always going to be a bittersweet process. It’s like giving a toddler a giant chocolate bunny, and then telling him he can only nibble the ears.

But stay strong, friends! Resist eating the bunny, for now…

 

[deilenberger]

Actually - all the major motorcycle tire manufacturers stopped using any "mold-release" agent around 2006. They use polished molds to get the nice smooth finish. There was a chap on the gixxer forums who took the time to write/email all the major manufacturers and ask about it. The response seemed uniform - they denied using it. Dunlop did suggest reduced speeds for the first 100 miles in order to get a feel for the different contact patch and tire shape vs your worn out old tire.

The point also was brought up about the number of bikes brought to track days with brand-new tires on them, and no restrictions on what they could do with them... or during an event where tire changes take place mid-race.

I think this used to be much more of a problem than it is now. With Michelin Pilot-Road-4's I don't even give it a second thought.. but that's just me - I'm not a 10/10ths rider.

YMMV as may your tires..

 

[greenwald]

Actually - all the major motorcycle tire manufacturers stopped using any "mold-release" agent around 2006. They use polished molds to get the nice smooth finish. There was a chap on the gixxer forums who took the time to write/email all the major manufacturers and ask about it. The response seemed uniform - they denied using it. Dunlop did suggest reduced speeds for the first 100 miles in order to get a feel for the different contact patch and tire shape vs your worn out old tire.

The point also was brought up about the number of bikes brought to track days with brand-new tires on them, and no restrictions on what they could do with them... or during an event where tire changes take place mid-race.

I think this used to be much more of a problem than it is now. With Michelin Pilot-Road-4's I don't even give it a second thought.. but that's just me - I'm not a 10/10ths rider.

YMMV as may your tires..

I wrote an article published in ON several years back about tires. Mentioned then that they are almost universally released from molds now by high water pressure - not oil lubricants.

Treaded areas need about 100 miles of normal 'scrubbing' to ready them for hard or sustained use. I talk with the 'Dunlop Boys' every June during SuperBike Weekend here at Road America - they echo that understanding.

 

[deilenberger]

I wrote an article published in ON several years back about tires. Mentioned then that they are almost universally released from molds now by high water pressure - not oil lubricants.

Treaded areas need about 100 miles of normal 'scrubbing' to ready them for hard or sustained use. I talk with the 'Dunlop Boys' every June during SuperBike Weekend here at Road America - they echo that understanding.

Kevin - I think track use might be considered "hard or sustained" use.. at best they'll get one lap at slightly reduced speed then it's balls to the walls so to speak, often on brand new tires. It's probably not a bad thing to give the tires a chance to conform to the rim, and make sure they've seated fully on the rim, but nursing them? IMHO - unnecessary with modern tires, as long as they're fresh ones.

 

[greenwald]

Kevin - I think track use might be considered "hard or sustained" use.. at best they'll get one lap at slightly reduced speed then it's balls to the walls so to speak, often on brand new tires. It's probably not a bad thing to give the tires a chance to conform to the rim, and make sure they've seated fully on the rim, but nursing them? IMHO - unnecessary with modern tires, as long as they're fresh ones.

I understand what you are saying, Don. But I address only road use, not 'track' applications.

I suspect only a very small percentage of our membership indulge in 'track days,' as the majority of BMW models are built for anything but, with the exception of the RR series.

Going out on a circuit, pretending your V. Rossi, is a 'whole different animal' than touring. Such a pursuit involves prep work not normally associated with what MOA members embrace.

I get my "hard and sustained" use putting in 400-600 mile days exploring the USA every summer.

 

[pglaves]

I understand what you are saying, Don. But I address only road use, not 'track' applications.

I suspect only a very small percentage of our membership indulge in 'track days,' as the majority of BMW models are built for anything but, with the exception of the RR series.

Going out on a circuit, pretending your V. Rossi, is a 'whole different animal' than touring. Such a pursuit involves prep work not normally associated with what MOA members embrace.

I get my "hard and sustained" use putting in 400-600 mile days exploring the USA every summer.

Different strokes ...

 

[greenwald]

Different strokes ...

..for different folks. Totally understand.

 

[deilenberger]

But - the same new tires. HOW do the racers manage to not instantly crash putting full power into those slippery non-scrubbed-in new tires? Only answer - they must be Gods..

SERIOUS: What was true even just a decade ago in motorcycle tires is no longer true. They no longer make concrete tires (Dunlop 491's). Manufacturers make tires that are very sticky right out of the gate - and Michelin seems to be the master of that (not a surprise - almost all Michelin tires - car and bike I've tried have been exceptionally good.) The current Pilot Roads are sticky right from the shelf - and have amazing wet traction to boot. Why? I suspect the silica compound being used just plain works. The magic in them is they also LAST - which means the rubber that the silica is mixed into isn't exceptionally soft (used to be done to gain traction), and indeed the hardness of the rubber varies from the center out to the edges of the tires. Harder in the center, softer in the edges. It used to be - I'd mount a nice shiny set of 491's on my K100RT with all of 95HP on a good day, and have to go very gentle on them for the first few hundred miles. Even gentler if it started to rain - it was like riding on ice. With the PR-4's on 115HP R bike - I just put'm on and go. It never crossed my mind to be concerned about them sliding around. I probably did take the first 10 miles a bit gentler just so I got the feel of having a round profile on my tires again, but from then on - just go.

 

[tom56]

I have new Michelin 4's on my 00 KRS. I tooled them on a high speed run and bent the bike over and the Traction was right now. Maybe 50 miles


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[henzilla]

Back a few (many)years, that seemed to be the best practice...now I am more apt to fall into the Grip it and Rip it method unless it is near freezing out. Now on skinny Airhead tires, I may be a little cautious on the first tight curve...maybe.

The tires are so sticky , I have to remind folks to disregard the noise the granite gravel makes as it is clinging to every tread and flinging up into their fenders as they ride out of our driveway

But as with anything YRMV

 

[BC1100S]

Back a few (many)years, that seemed to be the best practice...now I am more apt to fall into the Grip it and Rip....

I tend to agree. Of the 5 different motorcycle brands of tires I've tried over the last 5 years, they've all been good right out the door and right over to the edge within 50km.

Simply amazing technology which, I dare say, is under-appreciated.

 

[ncpbmw1953]

When I get new tires I run them a little low out of the gate for about 25 miles, 32F/38R. Increased rolling resistance heats up the tire quicker AND the size of the contact patch goes up as well. So after these miles at this pressure with a little weaving here and there up they go to where I leave them at 40F/42F and have never had an issue. Then again, I keep my weight well inside the turn so my strips are never less than about 5/8" anyway, so quite likely I hardly need to do even this w/ modern tires.

To the folks out there who ride their RTW all the way to zero chicken strips, how do you mentally justify this in street conditions? So many of the mountain roads I ride on have, of course, blind corners and I can't imagine riding well above your sight stopping distance. My corner entry speeds go from 15-25mph, up to 30mph over the posted corner speed if I'm pressing it and I can tell sight stopping distance goes right out the window even at those entry speeds. Leaning the bike over doesn't freak me out so much as what might be around the bend. Since I never go there, for those who do, can you give me an idea with your riding style IF you keep your weight well to the inside the turn (not hanging off, just well inside), what kind of strip width do you see at what corner entry speed if you will?

 

[lee]

...now I am more apt to fall into the Grip it and Rip it method unless it is near freezing out.

You're able to do that because your dog likes to lick the new off tires

 

[BC1100S]

Since I never go there, for those who do, can you give me an idea with your riding style IF you keep your weight well to the inside the turn (not hanging off, just well inside), what kind of strip width do you see at what corner entry speed if you will?

Off topic but my quick answer is....some of us are Hailwoods and some of us are Valentinos.

 

[pffog]

..............
I suspect only a very small percentage of our membership indulge in 'track days,' as the majority of BMW models are built for anything but, with the exception of the RR series...........................

One does not need an RR

 

[pffog]

........................ Since I never go there, for those who do, can you give me an idea with your riding style IF you keep your weight well to the inside the turn (not hanging off, just well inside), what kind of strip width do you see at what corner entry speed if you will?

The question as I understand it, has no answer, I can scrape pegs on some corners at 20 MPH or less, others take 130mph (track only for me) to get the same angles.


MY MO on new tires is to gradually increase lean angles when I put new tires on, depending on where I am riding that can take 10 -100 miles until I get enough corners to reach the edge. I always try to use the entire tire, I am too cheap to leave that expensive rubber on the tire.

 

[rxcrider]

...what kind of strip width do you see at what corner entry speed if you will?

Ignore the chicken strip and ride where you are happy. There are a lot of factors dictating corner entry speed, not the least of which being the corner geometry and pavement type / condition. Also, different tires have different contours and you can change the chicken strip just by changing brands. The PR2 I rode previously always had a 1/2" or so on the back. I only have a lightly scrubbed dark line at the edge of my rear Angel GT and I don't think I'm leaning the bike over much farther. I'm by no means the fastest rider on the planet, but I enjoy turning and while I touch a toe slider occasionally, I haven't needed knee pucks yet. Since I scrape the center stand through dips in a turn, but never my knee, I probably need suspension work before I can consider putting a knee down. Mind you, I'm not running crazy fast, just 2x or sometimes 3x the yellow recommendation signs. I had the opportunity to put some laps in at Nelson Ledges last summer and was able to push a bit more since road traffic, dogs, etc. weren't a concern. Even there, I had no interest in being unable to ride home so I never found the limits beyond a few wiggles when it was drizzling. Lap times were around 1:30 so I certainly wasn't at race pace. I'm sure I would have been eaten alive by a decent rider on an SV650. If my goal was to just erase the chicken strips, I'd spend all my time on a second gear right left combo near my house where I regularly touch a toe. Instead, I ride the roads I enjoy at a pace where I feel comfortable and leave enough of a cushion that I feel I can avoid any issue that comes up. The chicken strips end up where they end up.

My thoughts on new, cold tires on the track is that even without tire warmers, you are dealing with riders who are generally comfortable sliding around a bit. If it slides a bit more until they get scrubbed and come up to temp, is it really a big deal? They just ride a bit slower for a couple laps. Now, are you willing to slide around on the street? Mailboxes probably hurt more than gravel traps. For me, I just slowly push them (or any tire I'm not familiar with) more and more so I don't end up sliding around. Gravel, tar snakes and the occasional oil spill give me enough fun on the road. I don't need to risk mixing them with an unfamiliar tire and end up sliding past the limit of my skill set. I'll keep working on being better in the turns, but I have no desire to crash on the street as part of the learning curve. The new tires might not need much of a break in period, but I still do.

As for how far inside I am, not sure. I've never seen a picture. I feel like this

but it bight be this

and I hope it isn't this


What I've been working on isn't so much how far I'm off the bike, but rather making sure my outside knee and thigh are engaged with the tank, driving my outside foot into the peg with very little weight on the inside foot. Making sure I open my knee and hips into the turn with the ball of my inside foot high on the peg, instead of sliding my butt off and closing my hips counter to the turn makes me feel more planted and able to adjust my line. I have no formal training, just watching better riders and playing with how stuff feels.

 

[ncpbmw1953]

The question as I understand it, has no answer, I can scrape pegs on some corners at 20 MPH or less, others take 130mph (track only for me) to get the same angles.


View attachment 62271

The question paraphrased was: what is the measured width of your chicken strips stating what your typical corner ENTRY speed is relative to yellow speed signage that is placed to give vehicles an idea of the generally safe speed to take thru the curve for most vehicle operators. So your answer to this question might be: I ENTER curves (i.e., just prior to turn-in and lean initiation) where signs are posted ~30mph over the posted speed, or ~40mph, or ~double the posted speed of the curve, etc. Just curious how strip width relates to corner entry speeds is all. For me, average entry speed before lean is around 22mph over the posted speed for very relaxed riding, up to 30mph over the post speed for what would be the aggressive riding for me. I'm not talking about corner exit speeds, just entry speeds. I keep my weight inside the midline of the bike just a bit but enough to decrease lean angle a few degrees probably. And with this, I see chicken strip width ranging between 5/8" and 7/8" on the rear tire, left side of the tire. So I would assume I have several more degrees of lean before I get anywhere near the hard parts. It would be useful for me to hear what others are doing in this regard to give me a better sense of how much lean room there is on an RTW for example.

From this photo it looks like strip width is around 7/16" to 5/8". At what strip width do hard parts generally start touching down? That should be a SOMEWHAT fixed value, for example you could say when you are 1/8" or less you are starting to touch down hard parts no matter who's riding the bike. Braking and suspension behavior related to specific riding behavior will change that number some, but probably not greatly. It is, IOW, determined by RTW's geometry. Yes, talking about a '16 RT

 

[pffog]

That tire had no strips left, was the rubber stressed to the edge, no, but the tire was scuffed edge to edge.


I never pay any attention to the speed signs or my speedometer for that matter, I prefer to keep 100% of my focus on the shape of the curve, pavement and surroundings. As far as entry speed, I am generally slow in, and fast out. Meaning once I have a sight line I accelerate out and increase lean angle to maintain the turn radius.

I will give you the same advice I give newbees at track days or riders who say they want to learn how to drag their knee, chicken strips would be the same. DO NOT TRY!! The only goal should be to be SMOOTH!!!

Once you master smooth, you get comfortable, and once you get comfortable, you ride a little faster, and trust your equipment, and guess what, soon the chicken strips will disappear.

If you want to accelerate your learning curve, attend a track day, it is the best place to practice SMOOTH!

 

[BC1100S]

That tire had no strips left, was the rubber stressed to the edge, no, but the tire was scuffed edge to edge......If you want to accelerate your learning curve, attend a track day, it is the best place to practice SMOOTH!

Correct on all counts.