Bing carburettors

[EMSimon]

None

 

[20774]

Use of the various Locktite's is certainly something people have talked about...I'm sure they are or there are some that are not affected by gasoline. In reality, how much gasoline is present in this area anyway?

Maybe just repeening the screws is the best or proper way to go.

 

[dennisdarrow]

+1 on what Kurt has to say. Typically these are torn up upon disassembly by ham fisted use of tools and equipment.

One might do a lot of research in various threads on here, Mr. Asherman's excellent site, dip into Snowbum's knowledge, and on Airheads about proper ways to reinstall and align. Peening is the way they came from the factory and seems to work for at least a couple of generations now.

Good Luck.........Dennis

 

[kentuvman]

I just disassembled one and left it in a carb dip product I bought at O'Reillys

If you call Cameron at Bing Carbs he can help. He is really knowledgeable and has all the parts you will need. I'm sure mine were never looked at and even with liquid wrench and the PB ?? product a couple had to be removed with an extractor - the threads are okay - whew!

Phone is 1-800-309-2464

They sell a book for $10.50 which is their manual - the $10.50 is basically shipping. These guys know the BMW carbs. I'd suggest calling to query Cameron.

Good luck,

Ken

 

[LOSTBOY]

I have used Loctite 290, formerly known as Wick'N'Lock, on these screws for over 30 years.

 

[BobZ]

When removing the throttle plate screws you should use a dremel type tool to grind off the the peened ends slightly below the shaft surface to preserve the threads. Then definitely peen the new screws after replacing o-rings.

 

[dennisdarrow]

Search

A simple 5 minute search here obtained the following.........

there is so much more................over and over........

Good Luck.......Dennis

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=15785&highlight=butterfly+valves

http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/r100gs/carb_rebuild/index.html

 

[sumran]

A set of hardened diagonal cutters that are small enough to fit the space and angled enough to allow the cutting jaw to get tight to the bar will do the job. If you have the right tool it is a simple task. The cutting process damages (peens)the threads. There are other ways to do it but this one is fast, easy and reliable.

Loctite works also, but the risk of a wandering screw in the intake system could produce an unhappy ending. Peening is a sure thing.

By the way, I think you will find lots of practical help and hands on experience here. I have learned a great deal and have been amazed at the willingess to help and knowledge that is shared.

 

[88bmwjeff]

I used blue locktite on mine. The part I hate about peening them is grinding down the screw threads. But, if you're uncomfortable with just the locktite, then I would use blue locktite and damage the threads near the end of the screw. That way if the locktite fails the screw wont back out, and you wont have to grind or file too much of the screw down to remove them.

anyway, that's my $0.02

 

[From MARS]

I've never peened the exact screw you want to peen; however I am familiar with "peening" in general. So to answer your question of "how do you peen?" I use a center punch of the appropriate size; ie, one that will fit down to the last thread showing, and then gently tap and ding the thread. We all know how easily a thread gets damaged to where it won't screw in or out, so use your own judgement as to how hard you want to hit it.

Now this may not be the classic peen, but its what I'd do if I didn't want to be worrying about that damn screw coming loose. YMMV

Tom

 

[BobZ]

Find a piece of anything steel that will fit into the carb and press against the screw heads. Then rest the opposite end of the piece of steel on your vice. Have someone use a punch to deform the screws from the other end.

 

[jbcollier]

They are called throttle shafts.