In the old days
I used to finish a chain master link with the ML on a steel block and a ball peen hammer. With the newer O-Ring chains, I don’t think I could do it even with the side-plate squeezer. So……extra master links it is for me as well. 
OM
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Tire slip at high torque, no TC
- Thread starter mjfink420
- Start date
I used to finish a chain master link with the ML on a steel block and a ball peen hammer. With the newer O-Ring chains, I don’t think I could do it even with the side-plate squeezer. So……extra master links it is for me as well. OM
That's the one I ordered. I got an extra master link too, hopefully I can get it right on the 1st or 2nd try!
Well, that wasn't too bad. So, yeah, my chain was shot. It was super easy to see when it was off the bike compared against the new one. Ton of tight and messed up links.. It was in bad shape.
New chain went on without much fuss. The company I ordered from had the chain cut to the correct length, just needed to adjust my rear tire a bit and it linked right up.
2 questions. First, I've never done a rivet master link before, can you guys take a look and see if looks OK to you?
Second, the front sprocket has a washer that's bent around the nut to keep the nut from backing off. I was able to salvage mine (had to beat it back out flat, but then was able to get it back on and bent around the nut again), but I'd like to get a new one. Anyone know happen to know the part number or what it's called?
Didn't get done until it was dark, so haven't had a chance to ride it, hopefully this solves the "slip" I was feeling, but, either way, it needed doing. Thanks for all the help!!
It was super easy to see when it was off the bike compared against the new one. Ton of tight and messed up links.. It was in bad shape.New chain went on without much fuss. The company I ordered from had the chain cut to the correct length, just needed to adjust my rear tire a bit and it linked right up.
2 questions. First, I've never done a rivet master link before, can you guys take a look and see if looks OK to you?
Second, the front sprocket has a washer that's bent around the nut to keep the nut from backing off. I was able to salvage mine (had to beat it back out flat, but then was able to get it back on and bent around the nut again), but I'd like to get a new one. Anyone know happen to know the part number or what it's called?
Didn't get done until it was dark, so haven't had a chance to ride it, hopefully this solves the "slip" I was feeling, but, either way, it needed doing. Thanks for all the help!!
GTRider
52184
Part numbers are easy to find at RealOEM—just be sure to ignore the prices listed as they never get updated. Just click to enter the BMW catalog, select motorcycle and series, etc. You can also enter instead the last 7 of your VIN to jump right to the catalog for your bike. I usually do lookups first at RealOEM, as their site is simpler and responds more quickly than MaxBMW or BobsBMW, two sites I often use for pricing and ordering parts.
Best,
DeVern
Best,
DeVern
CaptCF
Pontificating Nobody
That looks right to me from memory, but I think the real determining factor are the dimensions of the flare as measured with a vernier. I suspect the master link manufacturer will have instructions or documentation somewhere you can find the specs. Just don't go too far or the master link will crack and you get to break out the spare.
It's called a "securing plate", part number is 23008569916 for anyone following or interested. You should get one of them if you're going to do a front sprocket, I was able to make my old one work with some "farm engineering", but I'm sure the right way to do it is to get a new one each time you change the front sprocket.
That site doesn't seem to have the newer models? Or am I missing them? This happens to be a part that appears to be used in a lot of bikes, but I'd love to have a resource like this for other parts as well!
GTRider
52184
Yes, their catalog currently shows a date of 12/2019 so you won’t find any R1300GS or similar newer model specifics shown there, at least not until their next update. So for newer machines, head to MaxBMW’s site.
Not a problem for me, as I don’t need to work on, or intend to buy, anything built after BMW discontinued providing service manuals…
Best,
DeVern
The master link looks good to me.Well, that wasn't too bad. So, yeah, my chain was shot.
New chain went on without much fuss. The company I ordered from had the chain cut to the correct length, just needed to adjust my rear tire a bit and it linked right up.
2 questions. First, I've never done a rivet master link before, can you guys take a look and see if looks OK to you?
That is a very common part on heavy truck rear wheel bearings as they are held in a double nut kinda deal. I have reused them a number of times. The “bend-over tab” nut stabilizer is also common on trailer axel nuts as the nuts are really not “crushing” tight and they don’t want the nuts to back off.
Thanks for reporting back on how you made out.
OM
