stator to borrow

[jimbem]

This past year the stator went bad on my 2015 RT.At the time a new OEM stator was over $1200. Rick's Motorsports Electronics would rewire my stator for under $300. Because my bike had so many miles on it I did not want to spend the big money on the OEM. My dealer wasn't willing to tie up a lift,after he removed the engine to access the stator and wait for Rick's to get the stator back to us. Because Rick's does not keep a RT stator, which is the same as the RT-P but different than every other wethead stator ,in stock I had to find my own.There were stators available for all the other models but it took me over 5 weeks to find a used Rt stator to use for a core.

I am willing to offer my old bad stator to people who need to BORROW a RT stator. After getting a $250 deposit from you into my Paypal account I would send my stator to either you or to speed the process up to Rick's. Then after your stator is removed and shipped back to me I would refund the deposit minus my shipping cost. Hopefully I can help people without being taken advantage of.

 

[Omega Man]

Sounds like you had Rick’s do the stator work?
If you haven’t already, may be good to leave your contact info at Rick’s in case someone else runs into needing a “core”.
OM

 

[oldcamper]

Has anyone ever used one of these $65 stators?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1855520137...CagoqETcClpXKu9tl1wmgiMzoG|tkp:Bk9SR9zPmYKvYQ

I understand that it’s a lot of work to replace a modern BMW boxer motor stator, so one would certainly want to avoid using a “cheap” replacement part that might not last very long. Still, a stator is a fairly simple part to manufacture, just wire wound around cores. Some people even rewind their own, with generally good results. Stators don’t have much labor or material cost in them, but the quality of the wire insulation is very important.

I know people often equate cost of an item with quality, but what’s to keep someone from buying $65 stators and reselling them for 10 or 20 times that?

Anyway, I was just wondering if anyone here has any experience with the very low cost replacement stators, for any kind of bike.


.

 

[jimbem]

I don't have access to my receipt so i can't tell you exactly what I spent on labor but if my mind serves me correcyly it was around $1800. I would have been afraid to have a "$65" stator installed . If the stator had gone out a few years ago when it only had 150k on it and it was still my primary bike I would have bit the bullet and spent the big dough for the OEM.
Before someone buys the cheap stator research the part number carefully. ALL the wethead models take the same part number for the stator "EXCEPT" the RT and RT-P. I saw lots of ads for new aftermarket stators and some used OEM stators that had the part number for all the other models

 

[RadioFlyer]

It's one thing to throw a cheap stator into say an F800 which is a simple 2 hour DIY job and quite another to risk putting it into a wethead boxer paying shop rates to have the entire motor removed and reinstalled. I have seen $3000 for that job being cited.

When I looked into having a core rewound it was just too expensive given the ready availability of F800 stators at reasonable cost and the ease of installation. The wethead is a different proposition. I would want to get the best quality stator in there and cross my fingers.

Whether considering a rewind or aftermarket stator I would ask the vendor about the wire used. What is the gauge? Larger gauge is better if it fits on the core and has the same number of turns. What is the temperature rating and insulation material of the wire used? There is a NEMA spec for this type of wire. Getting something with polymide insulation rated for 240C would be advisable.





There is another thread on here in which there are posts describing how conversion to a series type regulator can also mitigate stator heating and failure.

 

[oldcamper]

It's one thing to throw a cheap stator into say an F800 which is a simple 2 hour DIY job and quite another to risk putting it into a wethead boxer paying shop rates to have the entire motor removed and reinstalled. I have seen $3000 for that job being cited.
<SNIP>
Whether considering a rewind or aftermarket stator I would ask the vendor about the wire used. What is the gauge? Larger gauge is better if it fits on the core and has the same number of turns. What is the temperature rating and insulation material of the wire used? There is a NEMA spec for this type of wire. Getting something with polymide insulation rated for 240C would be advisable.

I agree. Maybe what I should have asked was if anyone has ever determined that the $$$ OEM replacement stator is any better quality than the $65 aftermarket one. After all, we have no idea where BMW buys theirs or what they pay for them.

 

[Visian]

I agree. Maybe what I should have asked was if anyone has ever determined that the $$$ OEM replacement stator is any better quality than the $65 aftermarket one.

That sounds like an excellent subject for a tech article. I'll bet we even have a member or two with expertise in this area. It would be cool if someone volunteered to do it.

In fact, the base of the subject: how do aftermarket parts stack up to OEM, would be a great service to the community, ideally suited to both print articles and forum threads. Add to that a great list of proven-equal-or-better-than-OEM for reference.

After all, we have no idea where BMW buys theirs or what they pay for them.

One assumes that they have specs for such parts and a vendor has to meet the specs.

But who knows, the OEM turn signal parts I bought to refurb my airhead seem less substantial than the 36 year-old parts they replaced. My Siebenrock orange solo saddle, tank stickers by Gian Sticherman and tank badges by Toaster Tan are actually better than the quality of the old ones.

Photo by Chris Parker