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From: https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/another-gsw-stator-failure.1508090/#post-42550765


"After some research, these are my findings so far

BMW R1200 R / GS / RS / Adventure share the same alternator/stator. The stator dimensions are 133mm OD, 60mm ID, and 13mm core thickness. It has 21 coils

Part numbers:
12 31 8 526 908 - available till 03.04.2014
12 31 7 724 032 - available till 23.11.2016
12 31 8 356 824 - the current part

R1200RT has different alternator, heavier flywheel, stator with 139mm OD, other dimensions are not known to me at the moment. It has 15 coils.

Part numbers:
12 31 8 541 003 - available till 16.02.2015
12 31 8 556 028 - the current part

ElectroSport makes stator for BMW R1200 R / GS / RS / Adeventure, but will not fit on RT. Model number is ESG018
RMSTATOR makes stator for BMW R1200 R / GS / RS / Adeventure, but will not fit on RT, although on their web site RT is listed. Model number CARMS010-105024"
 
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I finally found a used RT stator on ebay. It got sent to Rick's Motorsports electronics and tested. They told me it was good but I am having them rewind it anyways. The stator cost me $220 including shipping. Rick's is charging $230 to rewind it and ship it back. The dealer told me 7 to 8 hours labor to install it.
I would hate to put the used stator in without having it redone and then have it go out a year later. It will be worth my piece of mind to have it done.
When I get the stator back from Rick's and installed I will do a final post telling how things went and final cost savings over buying the oem stator for $1280
 
I finally found a used RT stator on ebay. It got sent to Rick's Motorsports electronics and tested. They told me it was good but I am having them rewind it anyways. The stator cost me $220 including shipping. Rick's is charging $230 to rewind it and ship it back. The dealer told me 7 to 8 hours labor to install it.
I would hate to put the used stator in without having it redone and then have it go out a year later. It will be worth my piece of mind to have it done.
When I get the stator back from Rick's and installed I will do a final post telling how things went and final cost savings over buying the oem stator for $1280

Thanks for the update.
Good luck.
OM
 
Did Rick's say what temperature the insulation is rated for? If I were having a stator rewound I'd go for the highest feasible given the expense of having to do it again. Criminal that BMW did not take steps to obviate stator failure given the frequency of stator failures on BMWs and other makes. It's a well known issue. Really no excuse.
 
No Rick's didn't mention the insulation temperature rating. And I didn't ask because I knew nothing about that. I had read good things about their services and still am confident that the stator will work properly. Now I'm not sure it will last 224,500 miles like the one it's replacing but I am sure I won't be putting that kind of miles on that bike any more. Also replacing the regulator like the service manager suggested. When they looked to order that for me yesterday they couldn't find any in the states, Germany or anywhere else. Before I could leave the dealership Dan the parts guy found a superseding number that had not been shown originally and ordered it for me. He is a real good parts guy with 40 years experience there. I wonder how many other parts guys would have taken the time to search for that. I am greatful
 
It would be interesting to know the difference between the original and new regulators. There is s ton of info on motorcycle fora suggesting that series regulators contribute less to stator heating than do shunt type regulators and many how-tos on converting. Ricks sells series type regulators with just this in mind. I will be converting our two F800s to series regulators over the winter.

From what I have read a good choice when rewinding is polyimide heavy weight coated wire rated for 240C.
 
Is there a way to tell if the new OEM stator with the superseding number is a series type or stunt type?
You mean the regulator right?

No easy way to tell if it's a series or shunt. Ask the dealer to ask BMW. Also look for any identifying numbers from the actual manufacturer and try Googling that.

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
 
Yes, the RT stator is bigger. A lot of internet vendors just don't know what they're selling so you get bad ads.

I did an RT stator repair. Got Rock's to rewind it. I was more comfortable having it built by someone who does nothing but stators, day in and day out, for years and years. I have another stator job coming in soon and am waiting for a core stator to have rewound before that job happens.

The RT R/R is AFAIK a shunt design but the connections are the same for the Shindengen 847 which is a series design. Different mounting holes but otherwise it's a direct fit. I use the 847 on the F650/800 bikes when I do a charging system repair.
 
I finally got my old RT back with the new stator and regulator. The dealer told me 7 to 8 hours labor when I dropped off the bike. It ended up being 9 hours. They rebuilt my clutch slave cylinder and had to install a thread insert on one of the engine bolt holes where the threads pulled out removing the bolt.
It's nice to have my old RT back. I will be using this bike when it's raining or otherwise crappy out around home. Or when I have to strap something on the back of the bike. Having this old bike back will allow me to keep the new 2022 RT clean . When I first rode the 2 bikes back to back I was surprised at how much the old one vibrates compared to the new one. I attribute that to all the miles on the old one. Boy this 2022 bike is nice. Except for the tft and bmw app.
 
Weird coincidence--the stator went out on my 2014 RT last month. The estimate was over $3K for a new one or $2500 for a rebuilt. I can't see putting that into a bike with 85K miles. I'd planned all along on buying a new RT so just moved that up a couple of years. The problem now is the 2014 is unrideable and my local dealer lost the BMW franchise. There are only two dealers in Pennsylvania now and the closest is 72 miles away, so I have to figure out how to get the 2014 to them so I get get at least something in trade. I don't have a vehicle with a trailer hitch and a towing company would charge me over $400.
 
Weird coincidence--the stator went out on my 2014 RT last month. The estimate was over $3K for a new one or $2500 for a rebuilt. I can't see putting that into a bike with 85K miles. I'd planned all along on buying a new RT so just moved that up a couple of years. The problem now is the 2014 is unrideable and my local dealer lost the BMW franchise. There are only two dealers in Pennsylvania now and the closest is 72 miles away, so I have to figure out how to get the 2014 to them so I get get at least something in trade. I don't have a vehicle with a trailer hitch and a towing company would charge me over $400.

No friends with a pickup truck? You could always rent one from U-Haul for the day.
Or- place an ad in the Marketplace with an “as is” description and move it along to someone that sees the rebuilding/repair as no big deal.
At least it didn’t go down at the beginning of the riding season.
OM
 
I thought about a U Haul but I'm 66 so getting it up and down the ramp would be dicey. I also need to take some stuff off of it, specifically the RDL saddle. Blue book trade is about $7K so I'll be happy if the dealer gives me half that (once I figure out how to get it there). I'm bummed though because October is my favorite time of the year to ride. The new one isn't built yet so it won't arrive until December.
 
I thought about a U Haul but I'm 66 so getting it up and down the ramp would be dicey. I also need to take some stuff off of it, specifically the RDL saddle. Blue book trade is about $7K so I'll be happy if the dealer gives me half that (once I figure out how to get it there). I'm bummed though because October is my favorite time of the year to ride. The new one isn't built yet so it won't arrive until December.

Sounds like you have made the deal? I’ll bet that the dealer can figure transport for you even if if it’s one of the mechanics.
Watching the lighting, I’m thinking a fully charged battery would get you there. Your “chase” vehicle could have a jump pack- just in case. As far as loading, backed up to a hill, it’s not too bad. The dealer will (should) help you unload the bike.
It’s an adventure that is possible.
OM
 
I wonder...

With a fully charged battery, how far can an RT go without an alternator?

I once broke a belt on a '69 Imperial, drove another 190 miles, including three engine starts, just on the battery. It started a fourth time just fine after I replaced the belt at the end of the trip.
 
Sounds like you have made the deal? I’ll bet that the dealer can figure transport for you even if if it’s one of the mechanics.
Watching the lighting, I’m thinking a fully charged battery would get you there. Your “chase” vehicle could have a jump pack- just in case. As far as loading, backed up to a hill, it’s not too bad. The dealer will (should) help you unload the bike.
It’s an adventure that is possible.
OM

Since it's still sitting at my local dealer who is 8 miles from me, I asked him about riding it home with a full battery and he recommended against it so I'd be hesitant to ride it 72 miles to the other dealer even with a chase car. But yeah, I've put a deposit on a new one. There seems to be a lot of GSes at the two dealers in Pennsylvania but not so many RTs. So I've had to fill my weekends getting a visceral thrill by watching YouTube reviews of the latest one. I love that every single reviewer giggles when they get out on the open road and goose the throttle for the first time.

I did plan to ask the dealership if they'd deliver to my house and pick up the trade then. All they can do is say "no." And as I often say when I'm giving a presentation at work, I've discovered that having people look at you like you're an idiot only stings the first 50,000-60,000 times it happens. Then you get used to it.
 
You indicated the KBB trade in value around $7,000 and you’d be happy with half that. That’s a $3,500 difference. You indicated the cost to fix at $2,500 for a rebuilt stator or $3,000 for a new stator. It seems like repairing the bike first would be less expensive, unless I’m missing something here. Plus, you’d have bike to ride until your new one comes in December and there would be no transporting it to the dealer. Also, what’s it worth to you to be able to ride for the next two months until your new bike arrives.

If those numbers are correct and it were my bike, I’d have the repair completed with the rebuilt stator. That would give a little more cushion for any other decreases in the trade in value.
 
My alternator belt on my 02R1150RT went to spaghetti on a group ride to the Ozarks. I rode that thing for 30-45 minutes before I stopped, my riding buddy had a spar with him. I did need a jump but all was good and I have a great trip. I don't see why you couldn't at least ride it home.
 
You indicated the KBB trade in value around $7,000 and you’d be happy with half that. That’s a $3,500 difference. You indicated the cost to fix at $2,500 for a rebuilt stator or $3,000 for a new stator. It seems like repairing the bike first would be less expensive, unless I’m missing something here. Plus, you’d have bike to ride until your new one comes in December and there would be no transporting it to the dealer. Also, what’s it worth to you to be able to ride for the next two months until your new bike arrives.

If those numbers are correct and it were my bike, I’d have the repair completed with the rebuilt stator. That would give a little more cushion for any other decreases in the trade in value.

You may be right. I emailed the sales manager at Hermy's in Port Clinton PA where I'm getting the new one and asked whether he thought that a running trade in would be $2600 more than a non-running one. I'll see what he says.
 
Weird coincidence--the stator went out on my 2014 RT last month. The estimate was over $3K for a new one or $2500 for a rebuilt. I can't see putting that into a bike with 85K miles. I'd planned all along on buying a new RT so just moved that up a couple of years. The problem now is the 2014 is unrideable and my local dealer lost the BMW franchise. There are only two dealers in Pennsylvania now and the closest is 72 miles away, so I have to figure out how to get the 2014 to them so I get get at least something in trade. I don't have a vehicle with a trailer hitch and a towing company would charge me over $400.
Are you absolutely sure your stator went out ? Mine lasted 224,500 miles and I haven't heard of one going out on an RT with that low of miles. I think some GS's had them go bad at lower miles but as far as I know the RT stators lasted longer. And when I searched for a used one to rebuild there were always GS stators but it took 6 weeks to find the one I needed
 
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