Shindengen SH847

[Geekmaster]

Based on information I received from RadioFlyer and AntonLargiader, I decided to replace the stock voltage regulator in my 2014 BMW R1200RT with the Shindengen SH847. Because it is a series-style instead of a shunt-style regulator, it purports to run the stator cooler, hopefully increasing the life of this expensive part. I purchased the regulator from Roadstercycle.com, who reported that a bench-tested Yamaha stator ran at 100 degrees with the SH847 vs. 200 degrees with a stock shunt-style regulator. Normally they just sell a complete R/R kit with additional wiring, but will sell the regulator by itself if you contact them. As has been mentioned, it's a tight fit, so I thought I'd share some pictures and the steps I took to replace it.

Normally, you're supposed to be able to replace the voltage regulator by just removing the left side panel immediately in front of the rear wheel. However, that was much too tight for installing this regulator. So, I removed the exhaust and rear wheel. Then I removed the lower plastic guard inside the wheel well, which gave good access to the regulator. I also removed both seats. Then I lifted up the electronic module under the front seat, which then exposed the top side of the regulator mount.

As AntonLargiader did, I made a paper template of the SH847 and used that to drill two mounting holes. I then purchased longer 5mm x 35mm stainless steel screws with the smallest head. I mounted the screws from the top and used Loctite to ensure they won't vibrate loose. Finally, since the screw heads are not recessed, I covered them with electrical tape so they don't rub on the bottom of the electronic module.

As has been said, it's a very tight fit, but it should work well. It started fine, and did not throw any codes after running for about 10 minutes. Unfortunately it's winter here so it wasn't a good day to take it out for a ride.

Here's some pictures of the install:

Comparison of the SH847 and the original (the SH847 is the bigger one):


Holes drllled from the top:


Top view after mounting:


Rear view from inside the rear wheel well after mounting:

 

[henzilla]

Great report and DIY help

 

[akbeemer]

What was the cost, please?

 

[mikegalbicka]

Good job. Thanks for sharing.

 

[riderr1150gsadv]

Thanks for posting this up.

 

[Geekmaster]

What was the cost, please?

It was $189 plus shipping. Usually the full R/R kit is $238.95, but I emailed Jack directly via his email address on Roadstercycle.com. He will then sell you the regulator by itself.

The stainless steel bolts, nuts, and washers were a few dollars from my local hardware store. Also, after thinking about it some more, I think I may add a zip tie as a safety strap and to reduce tension on the bolts, since they are are relatively small heads in plastic alone.

 

[Omega Man]

Nice work!
Doing a search for Shindengen, it seems that a lot of owners have used them as either replacement part or an upgrade.

To clarify, from the picture it looks like the Shindengen plugs right into the BMW connectors with no rewiring? That sure would make this an easy upgrade.

I will add this to the Wethead section- https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?70623-Wetheads-Accessories-Mods-and-DIY-s

Thanks for the effort.

OM

 

[Geekmaster]

Nice work!

To clarify, from the picture it looks like the Shindengen plugs right into the BMW connectors with no rewiring?

Yes, that's correct, it is a direct plug-n-play with no rewiring required. The only challenge is the mounting and tight fit.

 

[BC1100S]

Also, after thinking about it some more, I think I may add a zip tie as a safety strap and to reduce tension on the bolts, since they are are relatively small heads in plastic alone.

Perhaps add a larger diameter flat washer under the bolt heads?

 

[himself62]

So there is more than one model and I’m having trouble telling them apart….


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[Rainman48]

So there is more than one model and I’m having trouble telling them apart….

There is only ONE model SH847 and it is right at the top of the page referenced. Other items below it are other model R/R's and wiring, connector and mounting plate options for all the R/R's mentioned.

I'd like to know from the OP is if he re-used the BMW's OEM wiring and connector set as a direct replacement. I'm interested, but think I'll wait for more than a 10 minute warmup to learn if it has any problems or not. Does look promising but I want to make sure my control module right above it doesn't burn up either.

 

[88bmwjeff]

I'd like to know from the OP is if he re-used the BMW's OEM wiring and connector set as a direct replacement.

The OP was asked a similar question and in Post #8, the OP indicated that "it is a direct plug-n-play with no rewiring required. The only challenge is the mounting and tight fit."

 

[Geekmaster]

Perhaps add a larger diameter flat washer under the bolt heads?

I considered doing that, but I'm not sure of the gap between the electronic model above it. I think it sits flat, because when I refitted the module on top, it was very tough to get it seated, and seemed to be off by the bolt head height. I was able to use some gentle pressure to get it reseated, though.

That is why I'm planning to use a zip tie as extra support/insurance against the bolt head slipping through the plastic. I believe I can easily do that by drilling holes in the sides of the "+" channel to accommodate the zip tie wrapping around the regulator below it.

 

[Geekmaster]

I'd like to know from the OP is if he re-used the BMW's OEM wiring and connector set as a direct replacement. I'm interested, but think I'll wait for more than a 10 minute warmup to learn if it has any problems or not. Does look promising but I want to make sure my control module right above it doesn't burn up either.

Yes, I re-used the BMW OEM wiring and connector as a direct replacement. Rainman48, what drives your concern about the control module? The regulator itself, or the new bolts underneath the module?

If it's the regulator itself, then you can double-check with Jack at RoadsterCycle. He's done enough testing to confirm the operating voltage/amperage, etc. of the regulator.

 

[himself62]

I emailed the fella on the page.

So they have two. The new sexy sh847. And the mosfet one is an improvement over stock regular ones. I’m thinking I want the fho20aa.


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[Geekmaster]

I emailed the fella on the page.
So they have two. The new sexy sh847. And the mosfet one is an improvement over stock regular ones. I’m thinking I want the fho20aa.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Himself62, what bike do you have? I have a 2014 BMW R1200RT, and the FH020AA is what was already in my bike. The FH020AA is a shunt-style regulator, which works just fine, but shunts extra power back to the alternator once the battery is fully charged. It does not cause the alternator to reduce output, so it keeps producing the full amount, hence causing the stator to run hotter than the SH847.

On the other hand, the SH847 is a series-style regulator, which causes the alternator to reduce output once the battery is fully charged, thereby running the stator cooler than the FH020AA, based on Roadstercycle's bench testing.

Now if you have a lot of electrical load (lots of lights, heated seats/grips on, heated jacket), then there may not be much difference between the two, since your alternator may need to put out full output much of the time anyway.

In my case, I'm currently running all stock lights, and only use the heated grips when it's very cold. So, I hope it will cause my stator to run cooler. Only time will tell. Yes, it was $200 spent for no discernible benefit, but if I save $4,000 in repair costs in the next few years, then I'm happy.

 

[Geekmaster]

Perhaps add a larger diameter flat washer under the bolt heads?

Update: I verified there is enough room under the electronic module, so I added a 5mm fender washer under the bolt head. That makes the installation much more secure - at least as secure as the original mounting.

 

[chrismiii]

Based on information I received from RadioFlyer and AntonLargiader, I decided to replace the stock voltage regulator in my 2014 BMW R1200RT with the Shindengen SH847. Because it is a series-style instead of a shunt-style regulator, it purports to run the stator cooler, hopefully increasing the life of this expensive part. I purchased the regulator from Roadstercycle.com, who reported that a bench-tested Yamaha stator ran at 100 degrees with the SH847 vs. 200 degrees with a stock shunt-style regulator. Normally they just sell a complete R/R kit with additional wiring, but will sell the regulator by itself if you contact them. As has been mentioned, it's a tight fit, so I thought I'd share some pictures and the steps I took to replace it.

Normally, you're supposed to be able to replace the voltage regulator by just removing the left side panel immediately in front of the rear wheel. However, that was much too tight for installing this regulator. So, I removed the exhaust and rear wheel. Then I removed the lower plastic guard inside the wheel well, which gave good access to the regulator. I also removed both seats. Then I lifted up the electronic module under the front seat, which then exposed the top side of the regulator mount.

As AntonLargiader did, I made a paper template of the SH847 and used that to drill two mounting holes. I then purchased longer 5mm x 35mm stainless steel screws with the smallest head. I mounted the screws from the top and used Loctite to ensure they won't vibrate loose. Finally, since the screw heads are not recessed, I covered them with electrical tape so they don't rub on the bottom of the electronic module.

As has been said, it's a very tight fit, but it should work well. It started fine, and did not throw any codes after running for about 10 minutes. Unfortunately it's winter here so it wasn't a good day to take it out for a ride.

Here's some pictures of the install:

Comparison of the SH847 and the original (the SH847 is the bigger one):
View attachment 90550

Holes drllled from the top:
View attachment 90551

Top view after mounting:
View attachment 90552

Rear view from inside the rear wheel well after mounting:
View attachment 90553

Update: I verified there is enough room under the electronic module, so I added a 5mm fender washer under the bolt head. That makes the installation much more secure - at least as secure as the original mounting.

Smart move -I'm waiting now for my bike to be returned after both the stator and voltage regulator gets replaced with OEM parts due to failure. I will do the same aas you plus adding locktight and lock nuts to the underside of my install. I will look into adding a 2 tiestraps probabbly just arount 2 BMW pug wires (seperatly) that plug into it - thus adding some additionl support. I will only add them to the wires not on the plug because I don;t want the plastic tie straps close to the regulator due to it's heat.

How has your new setup been working for you? Could you give us any feedback after some miles and riding time, please? I understand the factory plugs fit right into the new series regulator which is great, but is there any polarity issue with these 2 factory plugs? Thanks very much for your pictures and posting!!

 

[Geekmaster]

How has your new setup been working for you? Could you give us any feedback after some miles and riding time, please? I understand the factory plugs fit right into the new series regulator which is great, but is there any polarity issue with these 2 factory plugs? Thanks very much for your pictures and posting!!

The new setup has worked out fine. It's been about 4k miles or so, and haven't had any issues. From a mounting standpoint, everything is very secure, and there's been no interference with the rear shock at all. From an electrical standpoint, well, it just works. No warnings, etc. I've checked the voltage readout from the dash when running, and it's always 14.6 volts, even at idle, with a battery that's at least 4 years old. When I did my annual service in January, I hooked it up to MotoScan, and there were no codes.

I believe you need to ensure you use the correct plugs, but the new plugs match up exactly with the location of the original wires, so no, there is no polarity issue if you simply plug in the "obvious" way. In fact, you'd have to do a lot of work to plug it in wrong.

 

[chrismiii]

The new setup has worked out fine. It's been about 4k miles or so, and haven't had any issues. From a mounting standpoint, everything is very secure, and there's been no interference with the rear shock at all. From an electrical standpoint, well, it just works. No warnings, etc. I've checked the voltage readout from the dash when running, and it's always 14.6 volts, even at idle, with a battery that's at least 4 years old. When I did my annual service in January, I hooked it up to MotoScan, and there were no codes.

I believe you need to ensure you use the correct plugs, but the new plugs match up exactly with the location of the original wires, so no, there is no polarity issue if you simply plug in the "obvious" way. In fact, you'd have to do a lot of work to plug it in wrong.

you said the new plugs? i don't have any new plugs only the series regulator with the 2 females on it, so I'm assuming you meant to say use the bike's 2 male plugs that originally were plugged into the old BMW shunt regulator - then plug them directly into the new series regulator -RIGHT?