Several repair questions re "new" '74 R60/6

[58fleetside]

Thanks to the group for helping get my "new" '74 R60/6 home.

Since I am new to BMWs I have a few basic questions on repair, parts and updates. Answers to any or all are greatly appreciated.

1. Keys: I have one ignition key only. What is a good source for folding keys? And, do the fork lock and seat lock use the same key as the ignition? If the are the same, what is the trick to getting these other two locks to work? If they use different keys, what is the best way to get keys or locks and keys?

2. Forks: The forks are twisted with the bars forward on the left. The bike tracks straight. What do I need to loosen in order to twist the forks and bars into alignment? I loosened the clamp bolts on the lower yoke but could not get the forks to twist. Do I need to loosen the caps on top of the fork tubes? These take a pin spanner.

3. Also fork related: I have huge fork dive on braking, do Progressive Suspension springs make a large difference? Are there other solutions to the dive? What is the best source for these parts for my model?

4. Tach/speedo: My tach is not working, and has no needle. The speedo works somewhat with the odometer and trip meters broken. The housing is badly scraped. (Yes, this bike was upside down at some point.) Is there a company restoring and rebuilding these gauges? The tach cable is not spinning with engine running. What is the likely cause of this problem?

5. Brake conversion: Is there a way to convert to front dual discs on this drum brake bike? Is this totally unacceptable on a stock '74?

Thanks very much for any words of wisdom.

Stephen

 

[MOTORMAN]

Keys,

You can get blanks through your BMW shop. Take the blanks and your current key to a locksmith to have them cut. Don't sweat the folding key thing, just get the straight ones.

The same key should work on all locks excpt for the saddle bags / box if equiped.

If your forks arew twisted but the bike tracks straight, no wobble and no uncommanded turns, you have 2 options. Leave it alone and just ride it, or take it to a shop that does fork and frame work. It sounds like it hit something and is tweaked pretty bad. If I were looking at it I'd have left it alone and gone to another bike. That situation leaves considerable doubt as to the integrity of the forks and frame. If either one of those has a break sometime while you are driving the results will not be fun.

The front suspension on the old airheads was soft. The easiest way to stiffen it is to add higher viscosity oils. I believe the original was 5wt. You can stiffen up the ride by going to 10 or 15 wt oil. If that is enough all you are out is the price of oil. If you need more you can get after market front fork springs to help out.

Check out some of the adds in the BMWOA magazine. There are shops that rebuild speedo's and tachs. You'll probably need new electrical foil as well as that was somewhat failure prone from vibration after time.

I don't know if the brake conversion can be done without changing the lower forks entirely. You will likely find the conversion costs will far exceed the value of the bike including AFTER the conversion. It will likely be far cheaper to just get a newer model that already has disks. On the other hand if the forks are toast you may be able to swap out a salvage set of forks complete with disk capable lowers and or disks. Keep in mind you'll need to add the hydraulic brake handle on the bar as well or go for the one cable operated but mounted under the tank. Either way it's more $ to make the change on an old bike.

Overall unless this old girl has sentimental value to it you will be spending lotsa 4 to make it a copy of a newer version you could find already to go, cheaper too.