1976 R75/6 Steering Lock not working

[jcdas]

I recently acquired a 1976 R75/6. I have 3 keys, flat master with numbers, knob key for ignition, and flip key some use for steering lock. All seem to be the same key code, and all insert into the ignition switch, seat lock, and steering lock. Not aware of anything in the past that would have replaced the steering lock cylinder. I've read that all cylinders should be the same key.

But regardless of key used, I can't turn the key in the steering head or press it in to lock the steering stem. I've been spraying in WD40 or a penetrating lubricant, but so far nothing seems to loosen the key to make it work.

Am I doing something wrong? Nothing in the manual tells me the secret of how it's supposed to work. I thought that I should be able to insert key, wiggle handle bars while pressing in the key, and it should move in to lock the steering stem, then turn the key to lock it into place.

Or is this problematic, and puts me at risk of the lock getting stuck in locked position?

Thanks for your help.

 

[20774]

John -

It's been a long time since I used the steering lock on my /7, but it should be the same. It might be easier to get it to work with the bike on the centerstand, but it should work on the side stand. You need to turn the bars to full lock, and I'm thinking it should be to the left. That should put the hole in the steering to line up with the cutout in the fork yoke. So, once the key is used, then it should push in to slide through the hole in the yoke. Maybe some of the owners who have the ability to verify this for a /5/6 can comfirm...or deny!!

 

[jcdas]

I have to turn handlebars to the Right. If I turn to the left, you can't get at the key cylinder to insert or operate a key.
So far, not working. I keep spraying in some penetrating oil.

Tried a friends /5 yesterday, and it doesn't work for him either. He hasn't tried for years. Maybe the part that inserts into the steering stem gets rusted into place?

 

[20774]

If it were easy for me, I'd try my own but I haven't used it in maybe 30 years. Duane Ausherman discusses removal of the lock on this page, but towards the bottom he shows the flats on the locking mechanism and the slot that it fits in on the stem.

https://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/lock/index.htm

So in your case, it's either that the lock itself doesn't move or the hole that it slides into is damaged. That's the way it's supposed to work, not sure what else to offer.

 

[brant914]

I replaced my steering lock due to no key on this project.

its not hard to drill out nor replace.
however... that involves pulling the steering bearings first... so it becomes a pretty big job

maybe try something other than WD40
its really not a penetrating oil... its a water dispersing oil...
not really a good product in so many ways

get some Kroil if you want the best penetrating oil
brant

 

[beemeruss]

The problem may be other than a stuck lock cylinder. In my 50 years of airhead ownership I have had to replace the lock several times due to ham fisted operation. The operator would unlock the steering and immediately turn the bars without first removing the key and wind up snapping off the key. I believe that the folding key was invented to prevent that. You may have to drill it out and search for a replacement. I believe that a competent locksmith could re-key it so that you needn't carry 2 different keys. I have heard that a determined twist of the bars can defeat the lock. They only keep honest persons honest...

Russ

 

[20774]

Found this on youtube by Brook Reams...it's for a 1983 but likely is quite similar. I only watched the first couple of minutes. Note in that he actually turns the fork and locks the steering.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0QFT5zLreTk" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[stevenrankin]

A few times

I used my lock a few times when my bike was new and found it to be a big pain in the butt. Last winter's overhaul saw a newly powder coated frame and the lock was never installed. I put a rubber plug in the hole.

My dealer when I bought the bike mentioned the habit of keys getting broken off and he didn't recommend using it. An airhead doesn't weight much and if someone wants it, they will take it lock or no locked handlebars.

LOL, the gas cap lock gave up it's life a dozen years ago, it won't lock. I haven't missed not using it. At least it quit working in the unlocked position. St.

 

[jcdas]

After multiple shots of penetrating oil, I got it to work. I have to insert the key and wiggle it a bit but eventually the key will turn counterclockwise. Then it will push in, and find the slot in the steering yoke a bit to the right of center. Hopefully the pins in the tumbler will loosen up some more, and the key will work without issue. I hope it will be a bit easier to use for a quick stop while picking something up from a shop, than uncoiling a heavy security cable and locking the front wheel without burning the lock on hot header pipes.

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[20774]

Glad things worked out and thanks for getting back to us. As noted above, it's probably overkill to lock the fork. If someone really wants your bike, that person and 3 of his friends can have the locked bike in the back of a truck in less than 10 seconds. Now if you had a /2 with no electric start, it might be fun to watch someone figure out how to start one of those!!