Alternator shuffles off the mortal coil

[ackme]

No real question here. Just a data point for those that like to track these things.

I have a 2017 R1200GS that I bought in Feb. on a fly and ride from Denver to LA and back. The bike had 37K on it and fairly complete sets of maintenance records from New Century BMW in LA. The previous owner had done a number of trips each year up through central and northern CA that ran up the miles. No red flags from either the PO or the records. I put 1400 trouble free miles on it on the ride back and a few hundred more in April and May. The only electrical item I added were a set of skene lights front and back.

I was on a week long ride around the headwaters of the Mississippi and down the Great River Road last week. The first day was pretty much an all day rain and as I pulled into the last rest stop before the hotel the warning light for the battery came on. I did not check the voltage read out before I stopped the bike. I had been running the grip heaters all day so I shut them off and and re-started the bike. No warning light battery showed 12.4 before starting and 14.2 while running.

No trouble the rest of the trip and then on the last day, also in the last rest stop before the hotel, also in on and off rain, the same thing happened. This time I saw the battery reading 12.1 under power. Turning off and restarting made no difference. Since this is a fairly large and organized group ride they had a chase truck with a trailer, we loaded the bike up for the final 50 miles.

In the morning I held out a vain hope that the wet weather was causing some sort of ground short. nope. Then tried a new battery because why not? nope. Then rented a U-haul and drove the bike back to Denver.

BMW of Denver got the bike Tuesday morning and told me that their first actual appointment opening was at the end of July but they would do their best to fit the bike in over the next couple weeks. They called this morning and said they managed to get tested and the alternator is dead. Pretty much the worst case scenario wallet-wise but at least I get the bike back in 2 weeks and they will do the clutch maintenance while it is in.

ack

 

[Boxflyer]

Out of curiosity...what did the "fairly complete sets of maintenance records from New Century BMW in LA." say they used for engine oil?

There is this warning that oils with high quantities of Moly may have a detrimental effect on internal engine coatings...namely the coating on the wire used on the alternator windings would be a cause for alternator failure.

As I said...just curious...

 

[ackme]

A closer look shows that New Century did the 600/12K/24K and 36K services and always used Advantec 5w40. A shop called Adventure Motor Tech did the 6K/18K/30K changes and used Motorex Boxer 4T 5w40 in those changes.

The New Century receipts have more detail than AdvMotoTech but the oil used is listed in each.

From the Motorex site:
Boxer 5W40 is a fully synthetic 4-stroke engine oil developed specifically for liquid-cooled Boxer engines that require JASO MA2 fluids.
Developed with German BMW tuner, AC Schnitzer
Noticeable higher revs
JASO MA2 approved high-torque wet clutch compatible
Low friction and wear
Special additive-package to reduce evaporation loss (NOACK) for lower oil consumption

Not sure what NOACK is exactly (sounds like something I should stay away from) but would noted BMW tuner AC Schnitzer let Moterex make that kind of mistake?

Was not expecting this to become an oil thread!

I am certainly curious now and will ask the shop if they can determine the cause of the alternator failure when the pull it out and if there is any evidence of the windings coatings deteriorating. Thanks.


ack

 

[azgman]

Clutch maintenance at 40k miles?

 

[motormike]

Alternator failure. The Achilles heel of the wet-head boxers. Engine has to come out of the frame for access. Doesn't seem to happen very often, but when it does! Big, big $$$$$.

 

[eplerd]

Alternator failure. The Achilles heel of the wet-head boxers. Engine has to come out of the frame for access. Doesn't seem to happen very often, but when it does! Big, big $$$$$.

FOR SURE IT IS SPENDY.

I have a 2016 R1200 GSA.
At 57,004 miles I started hearing what almost sounded like a rod knock.
It turned out to be a bad bearing in transmission - Service manual has a statement to NOT REBUILD it but to REPLACE ENTIRE TRANSMISSION.
Transmission parts cost $4000 or so, plus due to casting change (to better support shafts?) the starter ALSO needed replaced at $500 or so along with some exhaust brackets that changed as well.

Labor to pull motor out and split transmission off of it was $4500

Overall bill (to Extended Warranty thank God) was $8500 (ish) and they wouldn't cover oil/coolant as they are "wear items" LOL

so yes - if it has to come out it'll be spendy..

almost 87,000 miles on it now and rapidly approaching time the 1st bearing went out but THANKFULLY no alternator issue -- YET.

Dave

 

[ackme]

Clutch maintenance at 40k miles?

I did not write down all the details about that but will follow up once they have the bike torn down. He said something about replacing boots (maybe they showed some damage/) I did note that I thought the cable needing lubing as it felt a little crunchy at points during this ride.

 

[ackme]

FOR SURE IT IS SPENDY.

Labor to pull motor out and split transmission off of it was $4500

Overall bill (to Extended Warranty thank God) was $8500 (ish) and they wouldn't cover oil/coolant as they are "wear items" LOL

so yes - if it has to come out it'll be spendy..

almost 87,000 miles on it now and rapidly approaching time the 1st bearing went out but THANKFULLY no alternator issue -- YET.

Dave

Well thank goodness quite that level.
The alternator is a $1300 part and the labor is 9 hours for the replacement and the clutch stuff. Still $2800 is not chump change.

 

[ackme]

That is a very expensive repair.

Not sure what I would do faced with that kind of bill?

I don't know what I could get out of the bike un-repaired. I could sell it as is but that would certainly be at a considerable discount to its repaired value. I would think probably well below repaired value less $2800. KBB and NADA show the $12,000 - $15,750. Would a non running R12GS needing a $2800 repair sell at $9,000 or $8,000? Maybe someone who had the time, space and talent to do the repair themselves would consider it.

i could part it out but that would be fairly labor intensive and I dont think I want to go into business against Beemer Boneyard.

I do want to continue motorcycling and since I am currently bike-less getting the make, model and year of the bike I want for $2800 seems like the better option of maybe getting $9000 in my pocket and then starting over to buy something similar.

 

[oldcamper]

Most bike alternators are of generic design and are well supported by the aftermarket.
Here’s a new 2017 R1200 replacement stator for $125 from Canada:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304012766707?fits=Year:2017|Make:BMW&hash=item46c892adf3:g:TYsAAOSwIHFgsI8P

Aftermarket stators are common replacements for the Rotax f-twins, where the OEM stators often fail at 40-50K miles.

Good luck with the project.

 

[wbrownell9]

Most bike alternators are of generic design and are well supported by the aftermarket.
Here’s a new 2017 R1200 replacement stator for $125 from Canada:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304012766707?fits=Year:2017|Make:BMW&hash=item46c892adf3:g:TYsAAOSwIHFgsI8P

Aftermarket stators are common replacements for the Rotax f-twins, where the OEM stators often fail at 40-50K miles.

Good luck with the project.

It's not so much the cost of the part as it is the labor to get to it, and put it back together. It's a daunting task on a wethead, even for the mechanically competent (which i am not).

 

[motormike]

As the LC bikes get a bit older and depreciate a bit more, it's conceivable an alternator failure will result in the bike being parted out or scrapped, as the cost of repair will equal or exceed the value of the bike. It puts an owner in a bit of a bind. As was mentioned, trading in a non-runner for a new bike is the quickest way to deal with it, as the dealership can do the repairs at "cost" and put the bike back out on the sales floor for a nice profit. But that assumes the owner wants or is in a position to buy new, which many may not be. I love my GS, but I don't kid myself about it. There are very good reasons BMW is said to stand for "Break My Wallet!"

 

[JIGGIN]

Alternator

Well, my '14 RTs alternator decided to take a dump after I arrived in Great Falls. Only putting out 9.2v. Ended up trucking me and the bike back to MN. Yes Bou Coup $$$$!!!. I really love this bike w 65k miles running better than new (except!!! dammit). I'm really not in a position to pay repairs or trade. Soooooo, I decided to go ahead w the repairs, then ride it another 65k mi hopefully before I have to make a major decision like this. By the way, the help I got from other bikers that I had just met at the motel, were all so helpful. True Biker culture!

 

[AntonLargiader]

What component was bad? I assume the stator, if it was $$$$.

 

[strataj]

If it was the stator I'd check with BMW for some $ help. They did change that part on later models. Let us know how it works out.

 

[beemerchuck]

Well, my '14 RTs alternator decided to take a dump after I arrived in Great Falls. Only putting out 9.2v. Ended up trucking me and the bike back to MN. Yes Bou Coup $$$$!!!. I really love this bike w 65k miles running better than new (except!!! dammit). I'm really not in a position to pay repairs or trade. Soooooo, I decided to go ahead w the repairs, then ride it another 65k mi hopefully before I have to make a major decision like this. By the way, the help I got from other bikers that I had just met at the motel, were all so helpful. True Biker culture!

If you end up having a non-dealer make the repair, the RT uses a larger diameter stator than the gs. You can get the old stator re-wound and put back in.

I found this out by puting in the GS part that generated no power and then tearing the bike apart again to put the old repaired part.