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R1100s models, repair information and related
- Thread starter tibork
- Start date
kbasa
Well-known member
I put the shorter link on the rear, which raised the rear ride height a bit and steepened the front end quite helpful in addressing slow steering. Not sure if you've looked at that. There was a factory sport suspension kit, but some folks just used a GS rear arm.
If you're still messing around with suspension settings. I added Ohlins and oh my. It finally made that bike ride and handle like it was capable of.
If you're still messing around with suspension settings. I added Ohlins and oh my. It finally made that bike ride and handle like it was capable of.
fbt80
Active member
Yeah, at the beginning of ownership I replaced all the suspension, still emulsion shocks but much better than stock quality (YSS). My rear shock does have ride height adjust, so I could shorten the arm, nice to know the GS hack. Forks are slide up and inch or so the accommodate clip-ons above the top clamp, but still steers like a truck.
Question: if you jack the rear with a shorter arm, does that screw up our kickstand? Or does that just lean over more than stock, which I think would be an improvement anyway.
Question: if you jack the rear with a shorter arm, does that screw up our kickstand? Or does that just lean over more than stock, which I think would be an improvement anyway.
kbasa
Well-known member
I didn't have any issues with the sidestand. BMW says you can't put the centerstand on it, but I never had any issues.
I spent some time setting up static sag front and rear, which made a pretty huge difference in turn in, as well. I think telelever bikes are pretty sensitive to rear ride height, especially. If I forget to raise the rear of my RT when my wife is with me, it steers like a truck and just resists turning in pretty hard. Add two turns of preload and everything's just fiiiiiine and we're out carving corners and having fun.
I never rode my S two up often, but if I forget to raise the rear preload when I had all my gear piled on there, I knew it almost immediately.
I spent some time setting up static sag front and rear, which made a pretty huge difference in turn in, as well. I think telelever bikes are pretty sensitive to rear ride height, especially. If I forget to raise the rear of my RT when my wife is with me, it steers like a truck and just resists turning in pretty hard. Add two turns of preload and everything's just fiiiiiine and we're out carving corners and having fun.
I never rode my S two up often, but if I forget to raise the rear preload when I had all my gear piled on there, I knew it almost immediately.
I just swapped the front tire out a couple months ago on the 99 1100RT. Road 4's. The old one was pretty triangular in the cross section from lots of cornering on tight roads. The amount of countersteering needed especially at slow speeds was incredible. Bike just wanted to fall over. New tire and it was all gone. The bike is really sensitive to the psi and the front tire in general. Overall, I find it takes more practice and concentration to ride the 1100RT well at very slow speeds than say the 1200RT.
fbt80
Active member
I have been looking for a more "triangular profile" front so it would fall in easier. Coming from a roadrace background, static sag (racetech method) was the first thing I did with the new shocks. I have a sneaking suspicion that the lower center mass of a boxer design may actually fight quick transitions that a bike with a higher center of mass would fall over quicker. I also think it's unfair for me to expect a 20+ year old twin designed for sport touring will handle like a race prepped GSXR literbike that I'm used to.
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fbt80
Active member
Just installed AF-XIED, (gen4) set on #7. Put a 100 miles on it and see stronger throttle response and a "howl" from the engine I've never heard during wide open. Hope the off throttle and slow speed stuff gets better. This was the wire-it yourself version. Not too hard. O2 sensor had 31k on it so left that alone.
It does start and idle better.
It does start and idle better.
mhines
Member
Your race-bred expertise and mods are very intriguing... but I feel like every time I start going deep into the mods on a bike or car I end up someplace where I'm challenged to get the package right and wish I'd just left well enough alone. My only material mods beyond the Sargent seat [ultimate non Ohlins mod] is a Danmoto cat elim that came installed, along with a peg/controls lowering kit [also installed by the previous owner].
All that said as I roll up toward 40k miles suspension refresh/upgrade is very intriguing and all the talk of the sensor mods etc. is compelling. Shoulda bought the exhaust I had a line on last year but $1k seemed a bit steep! Anyhoo, interested in your continued R&D, thanks for sharing.
fbt80
Active member
A racing background is more of a curse than a blessing on the street. On track every race bike was crafted just for your racing style and body dimensions, it spoiled you for sure. Some mods can easily go down the rabbit hole, like suspension/dampening settings. Fueling as well. For both, I make a tweak and ride it sometimes for months until I know it needs another click or setting. But I love the chase to perfection, knowing I'll never get quite there, but want to see how close I can get.
Totally get others may just ride the damn bike, never care that their front tire is really 1psi too low for their particular riding style or less compression on their front suspension will help sluggish turn in...it's a curse.
Totally get others may just ride the damn bike, never care that their front tire is really 1psi too low for their particular riding style or less compression on their front suspension will help sluggish turn in...it's a curse.
fbt80
Active member
R1100s AF-XIED, (gen4) update. It works, much better than the "Booster Plug" solution. Much better off idle and I think it pulls stronger too during open throttle. I think I'm stopping for gas a lot sooner though. Will calculate during the Barber trip to see if it's just my imagination. But, yeah I'd recommend it over the Booster Plug method.
It works MUCH better than the Booster Plug. The initial "adjustments" the Booster Plug makes are learned by the ecu which then adjusts the FI back to the factory parameters.
When I put the GS torque arm on my S (highly recommended) I had to fashion small 3mm pads to fasten to the centrestand feet in order to get the back wheel off the ground. I think whether or not you need them depends on the size and brand of rear tire one is using.
fbt80
Active member
...AHAA! I thought I was imagining things with the Booster Plug, like it worked but now it didn't feel like it still did. Which was why I sprung for the AF-XIED.
mhines
Member
Hey amigos, hope you've been having a wonderful season - lower miles than hoped for me but all for good reasons - life is busy and pretty soon my young'ns will all be flown the coop = more time to ride.
Question - my '01 R1100s has developed the leaky filler cap condition. One local indy shop [non BMW specialist who was changing my tires] replaced the gasket/ring with another old one they had lying around [from a similar vintage BCR]; but, alas, no improvement. I wouldn't mind the leak so much as I'm conditioned to adding oil every 1k or so, but it's just a mess, coating the bike and me with splatter, especially on longer ,dirtier rides. I also of course worry about getting oil on the tire and wiping out.
I've seen a bunch of threads on here recommending :
1. Wunderlich cap set replacement
2. Full OEM parts replacement, including use of add'l sealant on the rubber parts
I'm going to pursue one of these and see if my local indy BMW shop has a method that's worked, but in the interim, I was hoping to ride in the next couple of weeks [without getting completely bathed in oil].
I keep looking at this simple sealing problem and thinking... there must be some stupid short term hack to keep me riding.
Anyone got a rabbit in their hat?
[see pics from before/after yesterday when I cleaned completely then went for like a 10 mile round trip ride
]
Question - my '01 R1100s has developed the leaky filler cap condition. One local indy shop [non BMW specialist who was changing my tires] replaced the gasket/ring with another old one they had lying around [from a similar vintage BCR]; but, alas, no improvement. I wouldn't mind the leak so much as I'm conditioned to adding oil every 1k or so, but it's just a mess, coating the bike and me with splatter, especially on longer ,dirtier rides. I also of course worry about getting oil on the tire and wiping out.
I've seen a bunch of threads on here recommending :
1. Wunderlich cap set replacement
2. Full OEM parts replacement, including use of add'l sealant on the rubber parts
I'm going to pursue one of these and see if my local indy BMW shop has a method that's worked, but in the interim, I was hoping to ride in the next couple of weeks [without getting completely bathed in oil].
I keep looking at this simple sealing problem and thinking... there must be some stupid short term hack to keep me riding.
Anyone got a rabbit in their hat?
[see pics from before/after yesterday when I cleaned completely then went for like a 10 mile round trip ride
]Attachments
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
mhines
Member
Yeah, as referenced in option 2 - but I'm not one to remove my own valve covers. Will leave that to the pros.
mhines
Member
My local guy has a trick with teflon tape that sounds like it should keep me moving until I can get these parts in hand and do this simple fix. Thereafter I will see if I have the guts to attempt the entire scenario outlined by @pauls1150 - or have someone do it for me.
Appreciate all the rapid inputs.
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
It's just four bolts and two gaskets (the flat "outer" gasket, which IS directional, and the "cup" for the center post) per side... easy peasy. Maybe a little oil mess if you aren't prepared for it (a drain pan under the head).
But we do appreciate your willingness to admit some limitations (a la Clint Eastwood).
Teflon tape here just seems "iffy" to me... on the outer cap, you chance having a small bit drop into the oil if it breaks off (as when adding oil), and on the inner seal, you cannot really see and verify that the teflon has seated properly and that any excess isn't hanging down.
By the way, you can leave out the @ everywhere unless you're directly emailing somebody...
But we do appreciate your willingness to admit some limitations (a la Clint Eastwood).
Teflon tape here just seems "iffy" to me... on the outer cap, you chance having a small bit drop into the oil if it breaks off (as when adding oil), and on the inner seal, you cannot really see and verify that the teflon has seated properly and that any excess isn't hanging down.
By the way, you can leave out the @ everywhere unless you're directly emailing somebody...
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