No power on fuel injectors

[mquinn66]

I am trying to bring a 2000 R1100RT back to original glory. I rode it before I bought it (not as much as I wanted to (long story). Every thing seemed to be OK. But the start was not spectacular (dead battery and he had to jump, so might have caused that...). Bike had been sitting for 2-3 years - I knew I was going to clean it inside and out.

Got it home pulled the tank - emptied the varsoline and replaced the fuel filter. Before reassembly - I put the fuel pump and pickup in a gallon container and added 12v to the wire. Got a good flow of fuel (wished I would have put a fuel pressure meter on). Removed the charcoal canister (when I flushed the fuel fiter to see what I could see - I found a LOT of sooty black mess.

Cleaned the injectors.

Put everything back together - when I turn the key - I get 1-2 seconds of pump - and the hose squirted a good stream out of the hose. Attached the hoses to the bikes side (will be investing in quick releases!).

Got no crank :-(

Pulled the multi meter out and probed back of the tank and got 12v when key turns on then back down to zero.

Checked the power at the injectors - got zero volts (when first turned on nor when attempting to crank).

Checked fuses and switched the pump and horn relays (I hear the pump at first crank still).

Any suggestions? (I tried searching the forum a couple times - but could not get a hit with the keyworks I was using)

M.

 

[41107]

are you sure that you connected the fuel lines correctly to the fuel pressure regulator lines?It is kind of easy to mix them up without quick disconnects.

 

[dieselyoda]

What's your RID saying(Rider Information Display)?

Couple things pop up, side stand switch, in a gear, clutch switch.

If you got RID display and still no love, look at any grounds you might have messed with, accidentally.

The injectors themselves are always hot, key switch on and are grounded through the ECM.

No crank can be, a bad ground or with no RID, any of the safety systems on our bikes.

Best to make sure you got a neutral light on and the RID is showing at least fuel level and gear position.

 

[mquinn66]

are you sure that you connected the fuel lines correctly to the fuel pressure regulator lines?It is kind of easy to mix them up without quick disconnects.

THAT is a great question! I had them marked (with paint) and when I pulled it off gas got on the paint and disappeared! Three lines come off the bike.. Top goes to ??? Middle goes to Fuel injector on Rt Bottome goes to ??? (can someone provide an answer?)

 

[mquinn66]

What's your RID saying(Rider Information Display)?

Couple things pop up, side stand switch, in a gear, clutch switch.

If you got RID display and still no love, look at any grounds you might have messed with, accidentally.

The injectors themselves are always hot, key switch on and are grounded through the ECM.

No crank can be, a bad ground or with no RID, any of the safety systems on our bikes.

Best to make sure you got a neutral light on and the RID is showing at least fuel level and gear position.

MIGHT have found the issue! Got a LOTTA nakid wires going on!!!! I am going to pull this and rewire with teffel - but have also ordered the waterpoof "new" one from Romania (so get to do the project twice).

M.

 

[gsaddict]

Your Hall sensor is your issue.
That is about as bad as they get.
The first point of insulation failure is in the splice on the back of the plate.
When it fails at the plug that is very advanced.
Do not attempt any further starting. It is possible to damage the sensors themselves as well as the dropping resistor in the Motronic by shorting the wires to esch other.

Check the insulation integrity on the bike side as well.

 

[riderr1150gsadv]

What GSAddict says...

 

[Omega Man]

What GSAddict says...

Send him a PM (GSAddict) and he can probably make it as good as new for you.
OM

 

[dieselyoda]

Nice call. Lucky jump to find what is a common problem.

Just a caution, in the future, if you follow the basics, which you mostly did, the path would have led you there.

The one that gets me is your complaint of no crank. The HES can't cause that.

Hopefully, while replacing the HES, you come across your no crank issue.

 

[mquinn66]

Nice call. Lucky jump to find what is a common problem.

Just a caution, in the future, if you follow the basics, which you mostly did, the path would have led you there.

The one that gets me is your complaint of no crank. The HES can't cause that.

Hopefully, while replacing the HES, you come across your no crank issue.

She is alive!!! (again) - I resoldered Teflon (aircraft) wires in place of the shielded rotted shorted out wires.

I am now ---> <---- this much wiser to the ways of BMW motorcycles! (am a slow rememberer, as 10 years ago - I now remember having to replace the HES on my 1996!)

when I said "crank" I meant "run" - it did turn over just fine.

 

[mquinn66]

Your Hall sensor is your issue.
That is about as bad as they get.
The first point of insulation failure is in the splice on the back of the plate.
When it fails at the plug that is very advanced.
Do not attempt any further starting. It is possible to damage the sensors themselves as well as the dropping resistor in the Motronic by shorting the wires to esch other.

Check the insulation integrity on the bike side as well.

GSAddict,

wires after the connector feel fine (no crispy - no chipping or lack of flexyness). checked wires in other areas from stem to stern and did not see any that looked less than "new".

bike now runs and I will button every thing up and make any squalk list items and just tackle them as I come across them.

Thanks for the support and directions!