Lubricate the Fuel Injected Engine after the bike has been sitting all winter

[cline123]

A YouTube video from GoldWindDocs caught my eye. I live in the North of the US where my bike sits all winter. If your bike has sat all winter, what is the best scenario for starting? When sitting for a long time, the oil drains from the engine. To prevent engine wear, pump oil into the engine (and on the bearings) to reduce engine wear from a lack of oil.

The R1200GS starting system is similar to other fuel injected systems. Here's how the full system works, including the throttle-hold feature:

When starting the bike normally:
1. Kill switch in "run" position
2. Press start button - ECU activates fuel injection and ignition
3. Engine starts

However, if you hold the throttle wide open before pressing the start button:
1. This signals the ECU to enter a "clear flood" mode
2. The ECU disables both fuel injection and ignition
3. When you press the starter, the engine will crank but won't start
4. This allows you to clear excess fuel from the cylinders if the engine is flooded

So you actually have three ways to crank without starting:
1. Kill switch engaged (cuts ignition but allows fuel)
2. Full throttle hold before starting (cuts both fuel and ignition)
3. Combination of both (redundant but works)

This system design gives riders and mechanics multiple ways to turn the engine over without firing, which is useful for:
- Clearing a flooded engine
- Building oil pressure after maintenance
- Compression testing
- Diagnosing starting issues

BMW integrated these features deliberately as part of their diagnostic and maintenance-friendly approach to motorcycle design.

Robert Cline
BMWMOA 101271

 

[cline123]

Well... I jumped into the comments and found this: Oh CRAP !! I wish I hadn't been offered then watched this video. At first I thought, cool trick, good idea -- as I was about to take my bike out for the first ride of the Spring today. 2013 BMW F800 GT, with electronic fuel injection. On this bike, the kill switch and starter switch are the same switch -- opposite sides of the same switch, so not possible to leave the kill switch off and also turn over the engine. So, I thought, use the full-throttle technique described here. Ouch! Ouch! Ouch! Engine roared to life immediately to red-line. I snapped the throttle shut, but fear the damage was already done -- Another commentator to the video wrote: "Don't worry about starting after a long sit. Just let it warm up before you ride off." Maybe the latter is the best choice.

 

[omega man]

Nothing wrong with being concerned about pre-circulation of the oil. Probably good in most respects. I think of the time from when the bike leaves the factory until it is uncrated at the dealer can be quite long.
I think newer oils offer more protection than “we” think.
OM

 

[etiennelau]

I question the belief that oil drains down.

I decided to loosen the valve cover bolts to adjust the gasket and cover without draining the oil. Guess what started leaking out. Plenty of oil still in the "top" of the engine.

 

[omega man]

Chances are the major concern is the cylinder walls being “dry”. Most quality oil filters have an anti-drain back valve which helps get the oil to critical parts pretty quickly.
OM

 

[pauls1150]

With a boxer engine, the valve covers are certainly not at the "top".
Most engines have enough nooks and crannies (like Thomas' English Muffins) that some oil will remain in the galleys and pockets, especially around the valve train.
If one is concerned about the first startup after a long rest, you can either first squirt a couple of drops of oil into a sparkplug hole to provide ring lubrication, or add a little bit of oil to the gas and run that into the engine before you put it away.
Yes it'll smoke at the next startup, so what, you Know what it is.
There's nothing wrong with a "no spark no fuel" initial cranking over; fresh custom engines are typically spun over before firing them up specifically to get the oil circulated, and also to make sure nothing is binding and that the valves are not hitting the pistons.

 

[bc1100s]

Much ado about nothing, in my opinion.

 

[pauls1150]

Well.... if the bike sat with an intake or exhaust valve open, moisture could find its way in and maybe corrode something.
But yeah, this is over-thinking it.

 

[saddleman]

The oil film clings to the engine parts for a long time especially in the winter because there is very little oil evaporation in the colder temperatures. I've been in the racing engine building business for over 50 years now & we do like to prime the engines before we start them when they have sat for awhile. We like to prime the engine with a drill turning the oil pump. If I can't prime the engine with a drill I'll warm the oil up with heat & then start it. The last thing I would ever do is turn it over with cold oil until is has oil pressure & then start it. If your going to crank to build oil pressure at least make sure the oil is at least warmed up to over 70 degrees Fahrenheit or preferably higher.

 

[RPGR90s]

This same procedure works on my older fuel injected Corvette. It sits all winter and it gives a little bit of insurance when starting in the spring. Thanks for sharing.

 

[61996]

Pull the plug wires and crank it for a few seconds.

Joe

 

[GTRider]

Pull the plug wires and crank it for a few seconds.

Joe

Caution—unless the plug wires are grounded this could damage electronic ignition systems, which for BMW stretches all the way back to 1981.

Best,
DeVern

 

[k1200lt00]

You could also pull your ECM or fuel pump fuse. The only thing it might trip codes. On some of the newer bikes it will trip a code ever if you pull the main fuse or disconnect the battery.

 

[maxscycle]

Pull the plug wires and crank it for a few seconds.

Joe

So now your dumping raw fuel into the cat converter.

 

[tsconver]

Just start the damn bike and ride it.

 

[rich]

Much ado about nothing, in my opinion.

Just start the damn bike and ride it.

I agree. Bikes sit for 4-5 months in the north land nearly every year. I don't know anybody that does anything special as far as lubrication is concerned. And I also don't know anybody who has had engine problems. My last act of the riding season is to change oil, run the bike around the block and put it into storage. Come spring I do just what tsconver mentioned. I'm sure most of the folks with collector cars do the same thing and they sit even longer.

But hey, if you are worried about this, do whatever makes you feel good.

 

[k1200lt00]

Changing the oil in the fall before putting it away your best bet is to ride it long enough to get motor and oil up to temperature. This way all the moisture is gone. Running it around the block is not going to do it around here. On the average it takes about 15-20 miles depending on the outside temperature. Or you could just run it long enough to circulate the fresh oil, about a minute.

 

[rich]

Changing the oil in the fall before putting it away your best bet is to ride it long enough to get motor and oil up to temperature. This way all the moisture is gone. Running it around the block is not going to do it around here. On the average it takes about 15-20 miles depending on the outside temperature. Or you could just run it long enough to circulate the fresh oil, about a minute.

Let me add to what I said. I change the oil on a hot engine that has been ridden for several miles. It is still mighty warm after the oil change and a ride around the block is plenty sufficient for me.

 

[tsconver]

Honestly I always change the oil before first ride whe I let it sit. Oil is going to degrade and pull in moisture. Get it good and hot before you store it then change it first ride.

 

[paul_f]

Honestly I always change the oil before first ride whe I let it sit. Oil is going to degrade and pull in moisture. Get it good and hot before you store it then change it first ride.

In the past, I have always changed the oil hot after the final ride of the season. However, due to circumstances, that did not happen this year. After what I have read, possible your routine might be best, putting fresh oil before riding.

I always change the brake oil before the first ride, so I guess I just add the oil changes to part of my spring prep.