• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

My 1974 R90/6 never-ending project, with plenty of pics.

I was just pressing the horn button a bunch, making the sound in my head, when all of the sudden; "Beep Beep Beep." Hey! My horn just started working!

BWAH HAHA!!! Somehow I can picture you doing that, making the sound in yer head.
:ha
 
I got my old Fiamms to work by applying power to them while I tapped them with a hammer. It freed up the internal mechanism. I almost dropped the hammer when it went off. But alas, the repair was short lived. They started malfunctioning again a few weeks later. I replaced them with some new Fiamms from the auto parts store and that solved the problem.

I did not have a horn relay in my system. I don't know if it was removed by a previous owner or if it was a design flaw. Installing a relay with a direct (fused) connection from the battery made the horns honk with authority.
 
For grips, I'd urge checking out that Gold Wing guy, "randakk," he has some that are the best I've found and I think I've tried ALMOST as many grips as H4 bulbs.

I'm guessing if you google "Randakk gold wing" you'll find him instantly, but let me know if you don't, I'm sure his website is one of my Windows "favorites," just not sure where I've filed it.

Edit: yeah, that search found it: http://www.randakks.com/links.htm


BTW
There's nothing special about these grips.
Check out your local motoshop they are called ProGrips Rally made in Italy.
and sell at my local Cycle Gear for under 10 bucks.
Not the $18 The Randakks website sells them for.
 
200903022.jpg


:dance
 
My mom emailed me that my tires had arrived at her house Tuesday.

We get a break this week for St. Pats, since he's the patron saint of engineers. (You'll see 2 references to my school on the wikipedia page for St Pats day.) So, yes, I could get blind drunk this week, but I have that workin-on-an-airhead bug. So, after my thermodynamics test yesterday, I did the trip again back home.

Picked up my tires, turned around, and went to the shop. It was about 4:30 when I got there, and the owner showed me the basics of the procedure. I'm not a complete idiot, but I really felt like a noob when I had to ask him for help a couple times. But, with his occasional supervision, I got both tires swapped, wheels balanced, and I was out the door at 5:18pm.. even though they close at 5... and he didn't want a cent! Good dude.

Today, I'm going to put 'em back on and do some other work on the bike and around the shop.

Then, I might get blind drunk.
 
CD2:

What rubber did you pick and why ?

RB

I picked:
Front:
ME880 Marathon 100/90 19 and
Rear:
ME88 Marathon 120/90 18

because.. well, that's what the local airhead shop put on my R75 when I first got tires for it. That combo did the job, so I've gone back for more.

Today, I did some more work.

20090312002.jpg


The only issue with the tire selection is (supposedly unique to '74 models) the front tire rubs slightly against the fender brace, in it's factory position. So, I removed the fender for the mean time..

20090312003.jpg


..which actually looks kinda cool. Stout. Beefy. But, it sucks riding over any debris. Stuff gets thrown right up at you; as I suspected, and learned by riding around today. I cleaned up the sliders (and a few other things) a bit after this shot.

So, I carefully Dremel'ed the fender brace holes to be more like adjustable slots. The fender now can rise up higher and not rub. So, I reinstalled it.

20090312008.jpg


I was doing a bit of other work around the shop. Organizing and tinkering with my friends Suzuki GS. But, I decided to clean up the ignition advance unit on my bike. So, pop..

20090312009.jpg


..shazam..

20090312011.jpg


..and yabadabadoo.

20090312012.jpg


So, I cleaned it up pretty decently. I didn't even lose the tiny springs or little e-clips! It needed it. Very sludgy and rusty and not free to move. I used the middle piece as an attempt to adjust the points more precisely, but again, I just eyeballed it after I loosened it.

I put it all back together (53 in-lb seems awfully timid) and started it up. Even though it ran fine before, it runs extra-fine now.

One of my former lawncare competitors is hiring me tomorrow. So, based on how much I make, I may (read: WILL) decide to insure it and get it street legal once and for all.

Which reminds me; I called my insurance guy (Progressive) and asked for a quote for a multi-bike discount and a similar policy for this as I have on my R75. Looks like it'll be like $114 more to add this bike on. Not too shabby, although I feel like there's a better deal out there somewhere. I asked if Progressive gives a discount for having passed the MSF. He said he couldn't find any information on a discount for that. Weird. Oh well.. I've got 2 road-worthy BMW's and a drink in my hand.

:buds
 
Hey there,
First time poster, long time reader. Love the thread. But now, I finally feel like I have something to contribute.

I've got a 76 90/6 and I go through Progressive as well. They do give a discount for the MSF course! Currently, with one bike, I'm paying $75 a year for full coverage. Granted, I live in New York, where "technically" I can only ride five or so months out of the year, and I'm married with a kid and a good job. So there are a lot of factors, I know. Still, it seems like that guy was taking you for a bit of a ride.

Seriously, though. I've learned a ton of stuff from this thread. Good on you for getting those bikes back on the road.
 
That bike has really come around, it looks great.

My school is on quarters, and finals are next week. Naturally I've got all 4 finals stacked on tuesday, and will be home that night. I'll hopefully be out riding Wednesday morning.
 
the tire doesn't fit because its too big.
the design was intended for 3.25 front and 4.00 rear tires ('close' to 90/90 & 110/90 respectfully).
you just mounted a set of giant tires. theoretically, the front you have now could be even larger than 100.
best bet is to go with tires that are molded in SAE sizes. thats what the 30yr old bikes seem to like the best.
Avon Roadrider are hands down the best choice for any airhead.
light, strong, v rated, and long lasting. and they even hold up to phoenix heat on daily drivers. why would you want any other tire?
i mount Avons regularly for folks and cringe at any other make. sell those things to someone with a cb750 and mount a set of avons. you won't regret it.
 
:hungover

I have a feeling some people might not agree.

Agree with what? What was your goal?

Tires are already installed, and everything's a-ok,

A-ok as in, it handles great or it looks cool.
why would I waste my time?

I think you've already done that. I love your "devil may care attitude" and willingness to jump right in but the correct size tires would have been better for several reasons.

Ride Safe,
MB
 
What Else, etc.

Haha, wow.

Tell me what else I've done wrong.

Well, CDD... you ASKED for it!

You will notice that the so called "fender brace" which you so carefully enlarged the holes in is actually much more of a "FORK" slider brace.

That is a very beefy piece, just for the purpose of tacking-on that little bitty front fender.

Unfortunately, many airhead pilots feel that it STILL isn't enough, hence they add a San Jose fork brace, a Telefix brace, or some other fork brace to tighten things up.

Comments I've seen here on the forum seem to suggest a big improvement in handling, simply by adding such a brace.

As an engineer (or an engineering student, well on your way to the former) you certainly know that those "fork brace" bolts are loaded in SHEAR and, that by enlarging those four bolt holes you have negated their ability to accept shear loads as designed.

Hey, I am NOT picking on you! (But you know this is true.)

As long as the machine handles well enough to suit YOU "as is" - FINE! Who cares? Hell, it's YOUR bike! (and YOUR butt...)

I run the same tire sizes (as your new ones) on my RS (recently installed BT45V, front & rear) and I like them just fine. (But NEXT time I very well may try a set of those Avons...)

Luckily for me, they also happen to fit my fork/brace/fender etc. WITHOUT modification.

I suspect the the fork/fender brace hole lugs must be higher on the fork sliders on a slash seven, versus a slash six (or maybe the brace itself is a bit taller.)

Way back when, LOTS of folks who ran SAE size tires and who routinely carried heavy loads switched to a 3.50x19 in front and a 4.50x18 in back.

I did that myself and was never able to tell a damn bit of difference in handling - but the tires did last longer.

This was my own rationale for going with the larger sizes on my current airhead and it had NOTHING whatsoever to do with looks.

As a friend of mine always says, Cheers! :dance
 
Haha, wow.

Tell me what else I've done wrong.


You've done an amazing job bringing that bike back to life. I was just curious why you would choose to put such large tires on it. I mean, when you have to modify the front fender to fit, that should tell you something. What was your goal in tire size choice?
 
Don't know how much the tire rub was, but my first thought would have been to take a file and rasp off the offending edge of the tire. I'm sure it's just that part that sticks out which is the transition from the sidewall to the tread. The tires pretty thick in that region...I don't think it would have been any problem to give the tire a "trim".
 
you certainly know that those "fork brace" bolts are loaded in SHEAR and, that by enlarging those four bolt holes you have negated their ability to accept shear loads as designed.

I see what you're saying.. I just don't think the shear involved in that piece would even be enough to loosen the brace from the bolts. I think the axle carries the shear stress in the fork sliders. If you have evidence of the contrary, I'd like to see it. Heck, give me a year or so, and I could run some FEA on those pieces and have some substantial proof one way or the other.

:deal

my first thought would have been to take a file and rasp off the offending edge of the tire.

That was my first thought, but just imagine the backlash if I would have taken a file to my tire..
 
That was my first thought, but just imagine the backlash if I would have taken a file to my tire..

Well, I've done it...:hide I had a wide rear tire on my /7 that rubbed the inside of the swingarm a little bit. I probably should have used the internal spacer to move the tire over, but chose to hit it with the file on the few places it touched. Wasn't really a problem.
 
I've got a 76 90/6 and I go through Progressive as well. They do give a discount for the MSF course!

Anyone got more information on this? Each time I contact Progressive, I get the same representative guy, and he says they don't.

Oh, and I just insured it. I guess with my Dremel-ed fender breace, I'm going to need it.. :whistle

Next time I go back home, I'm going to get it licensed.
 
Back
Top