H
-
Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password. If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?
-
Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.
The Election forum is here: Election Forum
H
habdala
Guest
What to do
Ok, I have the frame at the powder coating and found a painter for the plastics. Now I find myself asking should I replace that or the other but here is a few things I will do:
Replace points and condenser, spark plugs, wires and coils, voltage regulator, (I messed it up) push road seals, head gasket, oil pan gasket, cylinder rings, lube the spline, clean and lube the clutch throwout bearing, front end bearings, wheel bearings, rebuild calipers and master cylinders, brake pads, brake lines, new rear rotor, and cables except speedo.
I have done:
Timing chain and sprockets
Here is what I might do:
Valve Job, new starter-solenoid, clutch, new exhaust.
I have cleaned the oil pan and installed new gasket, I torqued the screws to 5lbs, I think that is plenty tight.
All button down
And the wallet getting lighter
Ok, I have the frame at the powder coating and found a painter for the plastics. Now I find myself asking should I replace that or the other but here is a few things I will do:
Replace points and condenser, spark plugs, wires and coils, voltage regulator, (I messed it up) push road seals, head gasket, oil pan gasket, cylinder rings, lube the spline, clean and lube the clutch throwout bearing, front end bearings, wheel bearings, rebuild calipers and master cylinders, brake pads, brake lines, new rear rotor, and cables except speedo.
I have done:
Timing chain and sprockets
Here is what I might do:
Valve Job, new starter-solenoid, clutch, new exhaust.
I have cleaned the oil pan and installed new gasket, I torqued the screws to 5lbs, I think that is plenty tight.
All button down
And the wallet getting lighter
H
habdala
Guest
Starter Solenoid question
Has anyone found an aftermarket starter with the following specs:
Lighter, more torque, less power demand?
Has anyone found an aftermarket starter with the following specs:
Lighter, more torque, less power demand?
H
habdala
Guest
Thank you!
AnnapolisAirhead
--Tony
Looking good. This is downright inspirational, maybe we could all gather around and watch you work (and your wallet begin to float), group inspiration sessions. 
5lbs oughtta be plenty, agreed on the oil pan. The voltage regulator is a nice upgrade to an electronic one anyway, it starts charging at lower RPMs than the OEM. My Hella that I bought at Bob's BMW starts at about 2200 RPM instead of 4k or higher, so it won't generate more power but will start charging sooner and is more reliable.
On the brakes, have you considered switching to braided stainless, teflon-lined lines? IMO, less flex delivers much braking punch than rubber. When you rebuild the calipers, the torque values (if you have Brembos) for the allen bolts is pretty beefy, like 44 ft. lbs. Another thing to consider replacing on them are the pins that the pads ride upon.
A brass or bronze wool work wonders for cleaning and don't leave anything behind that can rust.
5lbs oughtta be plenty, agreed on the oil pan. The voltage regulator is a nice upgrade to an electronic one anyway, it starts charging at lower RPMs than the OEM. My Hella that I bought at Bob's BMW starts at about 2200 RPM instead of 4k or higher, so it won't generate more power but will start charging sooner and is more reliable.
On the brakes, have you considered switching to braided stainless, teflon-lined lines? IMO, less flex delivers much braking punch than rubber. When you rebuild the calipers, the torque values (if you have Brembos) for the allen bolts is pretty beefy, like 44 ft. lbs. Another thing to consider replacing on them are the pins that the pads ride upon.
A brass or bronze wool work wonders for cleaning and don't leave anything behind that can rust.
H
habdala
Guest
Frame
Got my frame back and the guys at Figure Engineering did a wonderful job Len, the owner is a nice guy and great to deal with. Here are some pictures
Before
After
Before
After
Before
After
I will have more pictures after I start putting this thing together.
Got my frame back and the guys at Figure Engineering did a wonderful job Len, the owner is a nice guy and great to deal with. Here are some pictures
Before
After
Before
After
Before
After
I will have more pictures after I start putting this thing together.
H
habdala
Guest
Looking good. This is downright inspirational, maybe we could all gather around and watch you work (and your wallet begin to float), group inspiration sessions.
5lbs oughtta be plenty, agreed on the oil pan. The voltage regulator is a nice upgrade to an electronic one anyway, it starts charging at lower RPMs than the OEM. My Hella that I bought at Bob's BMW starts at about 2200 RPM instead of 4k or higher, so it won't generate more power but will start charging sooner and is more reliable.
On the brakes, have you considered switching to braided stainless, teflon-lined lines? IMO, less flex delivers much braking punch than rubber. When you rebuild the calipers, the torque values (if you have Brembos) for the allen bolts is pretty beefy, like 44 ft. lbs. Another thing to consider replacing on them are the pins that the pads ride upon.
A brass or bronze wool work wonders for cleaning and don't leave anything behind that can rust.
Thank you Tony, please stop by as I need the support you are talking about specially with the wallet issue.
R
RecycledRS
Guest
Lookinnng Gooood!
H
habdala
Guest
Cleaning and more cleaning
Been cleaning wires and parts to go back on the bike and I tell you is a tedious and hard work specially if you don't have the proper equipment to do such task.
Painted swing arm
Heads, now the cover will need some kind of finish.
Been cleaning wires and parts to go back on the bike and I tell you is a tedious and hard work specially if you don't have the proper equipment to do such task.
Painted swing arm
Heads, now the cover will need some kind of finish.
AnnapolisAirhead
--Tony
Looking good.
A fellow Airhead turned me onto bumper paint for a low sheen black that'll make you think you are an artist with a rattle can (get one of those handles). It sure made a difference on my bike, which was showing a lot of use and abuse.
I bead blasted my covers, then put two coats of hi-temp Engine paint followed by 3 coats of (believe it or not) bumper paint last January. It turns out to self-level nicely and then with just a dap of wax rub it for a light sheen to look like factory. I glued a piece of 150 grit sandpaper to a small block of wood and sanded the fins. Here's a picture I took tonight, the bike is pretty dirty right now in the middle of my RT fairing project so pardon the mess.
I was happy enough with it to do the engine top cover and the airbox. I bought a spare timing chain cover from ebay and just cleaned it up tonight. It'll get the same treatment and then be mounted when I get around to a new timing chain.
Y
Yarddog
Guest
I'm paintin' my whole engine black...now THAT'LL be different!
AnnapolisAirhead
--Tony
Y
Yarddog
Guest
Thanks, AA...I can already see it in my mind in my /7 with black...all black...RT fairing and bags!!!
You're only joshin', right? That'll will affect the ability of the engine to cool by covering all the poors and putting a layer of paint over it.
Y
Yarddog
Guest
Not to any significant extent at all...there are TONS of engines out there that are painted all black...aircooled and watercooled...the key is to not get the paint too thick...two coats will work well...
No offense, but we've heard this argument for years, and I'm of the opinion that it could actually help cooling...but thanks for your concern!!!
H
habdala
Guest
Good tip Tony, I will do the same. Do you have the brand for the bumper paint?
Thanks!
Y
Yarddog
Guest
None taken... Hmmm...wonder why BMW didn't think of this??
Well....there's that 'vaunted Teutonic engineering' again!!! LOL Naw, I'm not one of those that think the sun rises and sets on what the guys who built these did... Painting the engines black, really, is an exercise in style, and back in the day, style really didn't matter to these guys...in my case, the engine surfaces are so corroded that the easy way out is to prep the surface and paint 'em with high heat paint...the only concern I have is that I normally hit the bare surface with a self etching primer, and then you get into that heat exchange issue for sure...
bob_m
Active member
Back in the day of the Slash 5s and Slash 6s engineers created the shapes and colors of the bikes, but with designer Hans Muth creating the look of the R90S and his magnum opus, the R100RS, BMW gave style a very high priorty that engineers had to accomodate.
You want to talk about style:
![ogilvy-motorcycle-girls-400[1].jpg](/data/attachments/15/15422-57fe8c84ca4e5e616a290eef5aac37a6.jpg)
