2000 R1100RT missing and backfire

[41107]

I used a timing light. I am looking for the full advance mark at higher rpm's. The computer can do the rest.

 

[littledog]

I was unable to get the HES timed using the "audible Method" as I mentioned earlier. I searched and found a method using a volt meter. Set flywheel at TDC, locked in place, connect voltmeter to ground and orange wire from HES to positive(red) lead on voltmeter. Rotate HES plate fully clockwise. Voltage should be 0. Rotate HES plate counter clockwise until meter pops high. My volt meter was showing in the 12V range at this time. The position of the HES plate was very close to the position of the original HES. The only problem I had was when I secured the HES plate and rotated the flywheel 360 degrees the volt meter spiked a little before TDC. I repeated the procedure three times with the same results. I have test driven it at this setting for about sixty miles and it seems to run ok. The only issue seems to be a problem at idle. When cold it idles down and dies almost immediately. After it has warmed up to operating temp it idles very slowly, probably 750RPM.

 

[41107]

Sync your throttle bodys and set your idle to 1100 rpm's with the big brass screw.

 

[Lendog]

I was unable to get the HES timed using the "audible Method" as I mentioned earlier. I searched and found a method using a volt meter. Set flywheel at TDC, locked in place, connect voltmeter to ground and orange wire from HES to positive(red) lead on voltmeter. Rotate HES plate fully clockwise. Voltage should be 0. Rotate HES plate counter clockwise until meter pops high. My volt meter was showing in the 12V range at this time. The position of the HES plate was very close to the position of the original HES. The only problem I had was when I secured the HES plate and rotated the flywheel 360 degrees the volt meter spiked a little before TDC. I repeated the procedure three times with the same results. I have test driven it at this setting for about sixty miles and it seems to run ok. The only issue seems to be a problem at idle. When cold it idles down and dies almost immediately. After it has warmed up to operating temp it idles very slowly, probably 750RPM.

The timing may be retarded a couple degrees, If there is no spark knock or afterrun you could advance the timing,
When I experience odd readings I go to a different meter for reference

 

[fbt80]

Hall tester, $50, EME. Done.

 

[littledog]

It's been a while but I thought I should follow up on my HES replacement and timing issues. I wasn't happy with the multi meter I was using so I purchased a new one. I hesitated buying the tester from euro moto because the cost was $60.00 plus $10.00 shipping and I figured it was a one time deal. I don't mind buying tools but an item that I will probably use only once seems like a waste if there are options.
I left my gas tank in place this time and also connected the multi meter so I could double check the results. I was very pleased that the fuel pump started and the meter spiked at the same time.The setting was about 1/8 inch advanced from the previous setting with my old meter.

 

[Lendog]

After using the meter to setup a timing light should be used