2000 R1100RT missing and backfire

[littledog]

Last year my motorcycle acquired a bad miss and backfire at startup. I replaced the spark plugs although they did"t appear to be bad and it temporarily fixed the problem. Now it is happening again. Could this be an indication of a bad Hall sensor or is there something else I should check? Is there any way to test the Hall sensor? I believe it has the original sensor and has 49150 miles.

 

[Omega Man]

From what I have read here on the forum, it’s age more than miles. I think, again from what I have read, it’s time to do it.
This member is well regarded on the subject-

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/members/gsaddict.28598/

The “Tag Cloud” has many more threads on HES. Just enter HES.
Let us know how you make out.
Good luck.
OM

 

[fbt80]

Second the recommendation, he can guide you. My 2 cents is also look at the idle circuit and clean.

 

[AntonLargiader]

Does it settle down and run normally after starting?

I would update that HES no matter what, but if it runs well after starting you still might have something else going on.

 

[Lendog]

Last year my motorcycle acquired a bad miss and backfire at startup. I replaced the spark plugs although they did"t appear to be bad and it temporarily fixed the problem. Now it is happening again. Could this be an indication of a bad Hall sensor or is there something else I should check? Is there any way to test the Hall sensor? I believe it has the original sensor and has 49150 miles.

Air leak at one or both of the throttle body shaft seals/bushings, and not fresh fuel, should be considered
I always recommend BMW’s “Complete Fuel System cleaner” aka Techron

 

[littledog]

Even after startup the bike continues to miss and backfire. The rough running continues at higher rpm also. I'm going to replace the HES as it seems there was a problem with the original wiring. The problem I have now is building a test box to set HES timing. The information regarding this was provided by Dana Hager using Radio Shack part numbers. Since Radio Shack is no longer in business I'm having a hard time cross referencing the numbers. I know testers can be purchased but I like the idea of doing it "on the cheap". Any ideas?

 

[52184]

There are still a few RS stores hanging on as independents. The one I use is at 1942 Woodland Park Dr, Layton, UT 84041. (801) 217-3686. If the old RS part numbers are valid, or if you have a good description of what you need, they may be able to help. I was just there a couple weeks ago getting parts to build an instrument tester.

Best,
DeVern

 

[AntonLargiader]

I would not waste time building a tester. The bike is your tester; you can listen for the relay clicks to know that you are at TDC.

 

[littledog]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I'm going to order a new HES and attempt to do the timing audibly. I'll post my results when finish.

 

[Omega Man]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I'm going to order a new HES and attempt to do the timing audibly. I'll post my results when finish.

If you can, post a picture of the old one for reference.
OM

 

[AntonLargiader]

For the longest time, the only visible indication I could normally find of the insulation breakdown was under the heat shrink at the sensor plate itself. Lately, though, the R1100s with bad wiring are showing it right up at the plug. Bare wires leading up to the connector; easy to see as soon as the tank is off. Send a pic of that.

 

[BC1100S]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I'm going to order a new HES and attempt to do the timing audibly. I'll post my results when finish.

You might consider scoring the HES plate with the engine case in two places to preserve existing timing. It worked for me.

 

[skag]

Last year my motorcycle acquired a bad miss and backfire at startup. I replaced the spark plugs although they did"t appear to be bad and it temporarily fixed the problem. Now it is happening again. Could this be an indication of a bad Hall sensor or is there something else I should check? Is there any way to test the Hall sensor? I believe it has the original sensor and has 49150 miles.

Have you replaced your coil sticks? This is a common problem. Also when was the last time the valves were set?

 

[m_stock10506]

Have you replaced your coil sticks? This is a common problem. Also when was the last time the valves were set?

The OP has the 1100RT. The bike has a central dual coil, not stick coils.

 

[pauls1150]

Just for information's sake, and to actually answer post #6, here's the schematic for the tester:

The resistors' generic part #s are RCR07G102JS (RCR05G would also be fine); I didn't find what he used for the LEDs, but most of them are either 5 volts or 2 volts, and I would make an educated guess that he used 5 V LEDs. Remember that the short lead is the cathode (the "flat line" side); hook 'em up backwards and it'll never work

 

[Lendog]

For the longest time, the only visible indication I could normally find of the insulation breakdown was under the heat shrink at the sensor plate itself. Lately, though, the R1100s with bad wiring are showing it right up at the plug. Bare wires leading up to the connector; easy to see as soon as the tank is off. Send a pic of that.

liquid electric tape is a wonderful thing but I have experienced a conductor with all but (1) strand broken with the same issues

 

[AntonLargiader]

Liquid tape isn't going to fix bad hall sensor wiring. The bare wires at the plug are not the problem, they are the indication of the problem.

 

[littledog]

Today I replaced the HES. No problems with the installation. However, I am not having any luck timing using the audible method. Initially, the ABS lights were flashing on the dash and the ABS relay was clicking. I disconnected the ABS relay but I only hear one relay click when I turn the ignition key on and off. It doesn't appear to be affected by the position of the HES PLATE. Would the relay be located in the fuse/relay box under the seat or somewhere else?
In response to post 13, the valves were adjusted 2000 miles ago.
I haven't removed the covering over the wiring on the old HES yet but I did notice cracks in the insulation on two wires near the plug. No crumbling of insulation there but the copper wire is visible. I will post photos of the old unit at a later date.

 

[AntonLargiader]

You may have to turn the engine backward to get the relay to click at TDC. It's so easy to figure out that I've never made a point of learning which way to go. Key on, kill switch to run, in neutral, sidestand up. Rotate the crank with a breaker bar and 16mm socket. Put the engine to TDC and then turn about 5º each way. When the HES crosses TDC, you get a click and then another click about a second later as it times out. If you leave the tank connected you get the additional sound of the pump running between the clicks.

I put a dial indicator in the cylinder to observe the piston position, and then adjust so as to get the initial click just as the needle changes direction. Maybe I should do a video of it.

 

[Lendog]

Today I replaced the HES. No problems with the installation. However, I am not having any luck timing using the audible method. Initially, the ABS lights were flashing on the dash and the ABS relay was clicking. I disconnected the ABS relay but I only hear one relay click when I turn the ignition key on and off. It doesn't appear to be affected by the position of the HES PLATE. Would the relay be located in the fuse/relay box under the seat or somewhere else?
In response to post 13, the valves were adjusted 2000 miles ago.
I haven't removed the covering over the wiring on the old HES yet but I did notice cracks in the insulation on two wires near the plug. No crumbling of insulation there but the copper wire is visible. I will post photos of the old unit at a later date.

Check the battery connections, check voltage at idle, low voltage will cause relays to cycle