Thinking of buying a 72 R75

Ahh, you're probably right on the Avon...I did a google image search and several on the pages look somewhat like the one in the background of the other picture:

https://www.google.com/search?q=bmw...=MOqEVPidEon_yQS8r4KABw&sqi=2&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg

my experience

sitting for twenty years....that's a BIG deal. start with everything rubber...then everything metal...then everything that involves close tolerances. Then everything that had any sort of liquid or semi-liquid involved. Anything coated...like wiring. Did I emphasize "BIG DEAL?" on the 20 years thing?

Congrads great find. Do rebuild the carbs the rubber in the diaphrams most likely shot. Check motor health with compression test and leak down test.
I am reconditioning my 73 R 75/5 starting in January.

Thanks for the info guys. I started pricing parts on MAX last night. Anyone know where I can find a free download for a service manual on the bike? I will be pulling the trany when I replace the tires and prob just change out the wheel bearings with sealed and new head bearings. I see there is a rubber cup on the clutch actuator so that will get replaced. I have noticed the parts for this are way cheaper than the ones I purchased for my K. Are the stock bars on this bike wide or narrow? The bars on my bike seem a little more narrow than I would expect? Happy days.

Rear main seal and oil pump seal

While your in there looking at the clutch replace your rear main seal and oil pump seal. Get a good manual and don't forget to BLOCK THE CRANK SHAFT before you pull the flywheel.

Before you jump in with both feet and a fat wallet you should do some basics and see how it runs and rides.
Step 1
Oil & filter and pull the oil pan to inspect and clean gunk out.
Rebuild carbs and replace petcocks & fuel line.
Inspect and replace air filter as needed. Animals like to make nests in there.
Pull valve covers, check head bolt torque and adjust valves.
Install a new battery, check for smoke and any other obvious electrical issues.
Replace trans oil and final drive oil.
Install some new spark plugs and start it up. Keep a fire puter outer nearby just in case. If it starts let it run a little and check for leaks or bad noises. Get a nice air mover type fan to blow cool air over the cylinders from the front of the bike while you have it running and not moving. Air heads can only stand still running for a little while before they get to hot.
You will want to set the throttle cables and balance the carbs right about now if there are no big issues.
If it runs good and shifts through gears on the center stand and you have no major leaks take it for a spin after step 2.

Step 2
After those rather inexpensive and necessary checks and service items see if those tires hold air, if they don't get new front and rear tires & tubes.
Once you have the tires straightened out and hopefully the brakes work OK take the bike out on the road in front of your house. Don't go to far and just get a feel for the bike, that little ride can tell you a lot about what you want to tackle next and just how much money you want to spend.

I for one would not buy a bunch of parts and replacement items until I know the bike runs & rides decent and there are no big ticket items (transmission, final drive, engine...) that turn it into a parts bike. A shady past and no title would be a big ticket item also. Have fun and look up Brooke Reams write on his /5 restoration right here on this forum, his thread is just as good or maybe better than any manual.

Weird, is correct. Obviously English.. ..but it does look like it would provide great protection.

lmo1131 said:

Weird, is correct. Obviously English.. ..but it does look like it would provide great protection.

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I guess it is in the eye of the beholder...........When I rode my /5 behind one of these it was great protection, aerodynamic, and for me looks kinda cool...........Hope you have the lowers....Combine them with some driving lights mounted on a crash bar and you can really eat up some miles...........This was my go to Mexico, Canada, Panama, and lower down hwy 1 back when it was fun.........Only bike though that I got the dreaded high speed wobbles with...........This was after I mounted Dunlop K81's.........only happened once but that was enough.....Don't think it was the fairing but the combination of the tires, short wheel base, wind, road, and God's will............Anyway that bike is gonna be great for YOU.......God bless......Dennis

In addition to maintenance items mentioned : disconnect , clean , and re-connect every electrical connection on the bike , including under front cover , in headlight shell , under tank , and especially starter motor . Consider servicing starter . Check gen. brushes .

I was planning on cleaning up all the electrical stuff as I went along. I would put it on the center stand and run it through the gears but the center stand has a problem and it goes all the way forward and rearward. So I figure there is a stopper that is bent/broken/missing. I do know the little piece of metal sticking out for your foot is missing so I have a bid in on another center stand that is intact. It even came with a set of highway bars that will be going back on it. I will have to rebuild the carbs to get it running. Where can I get kits to rebuild them or do I just have to order individual parts?

The fairing in the picture is exactly like the one from this bike. Mine is just black.

BMW Hucky is a good source

You can get carb rebuild kits from (Hans Lowe) BMW Hucky down here in Vero Beach Florida and I'm sure Vech at Bench Mark Works can get you rebuild kits. Google either one and you will find them. It sounds like you are committed to at least getting it running and hopefully in shape to be ridden so maybe take a look at one of those inexpensive motorcycle jacks that lift from frame contacts. Sears & Harbor Freight have them for around $125, it would save you from struggling with installing a replacement center stand just to get it running. If you get one of them make darn sure you strap the bike down to it real snug when you lift it up and work on it and you set all the locks as indicated in the directions.

Those tabs on the center stands always get broken off because most people step on them when they lift the bike onto the center stand, that's not the correct way to do it.

There are many little things you learn about these vintage BMW's along the way, you may give some thought to joining the Airheads BMW club, they have tech days all year long and all over the Country. Most members jump at the chance to help out fellow Airhead owners.

bruced737 said:

The bike is mine.

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Great! But what does the bike have for carburetors (seem to be missing from the photo)?

And what happened to the headlamp assembly?

That bike came from the days of the real BMW cycles! It's a great bike, like mine. At least until 7,000 feet elevation--or when you have to remove the tranny output flange.

-Don- Reno, NV

Thanks for the info on the carb kits, I will get some kits on the way today. The carbs were taken of the bike by the guy I purchased it from. Pretty knowledgeable guy and a real motor head. BMW's are just not his thing, as most people are up here in Hog land. The carbs are Bing with the black background. The headlight Bezel was mounted to the fairing. I already own a small cycle lift but I will be getting a large 1000lb harbor freight one this week. I am tired of laying on the garage floor when I work on my bikes. I will be keeping this bike in as found condition, the tank shined up nicely and I expect the rest of the bike to do the same. There are always small blemishes in the paint from age and I will be keeping them.

So the tabs are on the center stand and not on those brackets on the pivot? I have been trying to join the airhead owners club but have been unsuccessful in getting my membership to go through. I did order a clymers manual for it last night. Going to be a few weeks before the guy has the title ready for me so I have to collect parts.

bruced737 said:

I have been trying to join the airhead owners club but have been unsuccessful in getting my membership to go through.

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What part of the country are you in? Maybe I can put you together with the state Airmarshall for some help.

Have you been trying the Contact link at the Airheads website? Maybe try that also.

http://www.airheads.org/contact

bruced737 said:

The carbs are Bing with the black background.

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You only want to put those carbs back on the bike if you want to look at the bike (IOW, keep it original)--but not if you wish to ride it. They are nothing but trouble, unless you don't mind having a bike that will not idle below 3,000 RPM's once it gets warm. Engine will die at much less. But when cold, it will start and idle fine. And it's normal for the choke to NOT need to be used with those carbs, even when very cold.

Later year Bing carbs will be fine (silver background, "Bing" in black).

-Don- Reno, NV

Don / Bruce -

What carb numbers are you referring to? I think Snowbum references early numbers like /3 and /4 carbs as being problematic along with the "flat tops" but other than that, most Bings behave fairly well.

26667 said:

sitting for twenty years....that's a BIG deal. start with everything rubber...then everything metal...then everything that involves close tolerances. Then everything that had any sort of liquid or semi-liquid involved. Anything coated...like wiring. Did I emphasize "BIG DEAL?" on the 20 years thing?

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Far be it from me to disagree with any of the experts, as I am a novice of sorts, BUT the 20 year sleep MAY not be such a big deal. I bought my 1977 R100S from my cousin a little over a year ago. It had 11,000 miles on it and had been in his garage in Michigan covered for 33 years (? - he really can't remember exactly). Below is the picture of it the day I received it from him off of the transport truck. I haven't messed with any of the electrical connections, or the points (other than checking the gap). what I did do was pretty much basic maintenance, much of which is listed above:

-New tires - Michelin Pilot Activs (the original Contis looked brand new but resembled petrified (as in hard as a rock) rubbber
- New Battery
-Rebuilt the Bings - bought rebuild kits and the "how to" video from Bing (easy peezy with the video)
- Replaced all fluids - of course
- Replaced brakefluid
- new plugs and filters - installed in line gas filters
- adjusted the valves
- Pulled the trans and lubed the clutch spline it was in as new shape but dry. And of course while you are doing that might as well replace the Oil Pump 'O' ring seal and main 'O' ring seal - neither of which were leaking in my case, things were dry and clean as you would expect from a bike with 11,000 miles on it.

Since, I've had it on the road for a year or so and have put an astounding additional 3,000 miles on it, I have:

- changed the fork oil
- Replaced master cylinder - leaking
- just installed new shocks, the Boges were shot (it floated/bounced like a 60's Cadillac on the freeway) with Progressive shocks
- had 'wirespokes' service the speedo and tach (the odometer stopped turning

That's it so far - good luck

As it came off the truck -


Now (less the shocks) - not a whole lot of difference (any?)

You lucky dog, ride and enjoy.

I sent an email to Rick Koch and his advise was he couldn't help me and I should just send a check to the address. Not really something I want to do. I will try and contact Airmarshals. I am in Wisconsin and I talked to Hans today and I am holding of on ordering the carb kits since I don't have the numbers off of them right now. I will research the carbs some more and see if there are any not uber expensive substitutes. Mikuni RS flat slides anyone? I do have a few spare 38mm Mick's that came of my 89 GSX1100 with some velocity stacks and mechanical chokes.

20774 said:

Don / Bruce -

What carb numbers are you referring to? I think Snowbum references early numbers like /3 and /4 carbs as being problematic along with the "flat tops" but other than that, most Bings behave fairly well.

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The ones used in 71 were certainly not part of that "most". When I get back to SSF, I can see if there are any numbers on them. I think I still have them in my big junk box. But the only way I know how to describe them for now is the black background with the silver "BING", which they changed when they redesigned the carburetor to something that actually worked to some degree. I am very surprised that these 71 junk carbs have not been discussed in this forum before. Back then, everybody knew they were junk, including the BMW dealers. There was a hole they drilled in them (I forgot where), and then when hot, they would idle all the way down to around 2,500 RPM's instead of the usual 3,000 before the engine would die. And I am not exaggerating here. They really did idle at 3,000 RPM's when they got very warm, which made it IMPOSSIBLE to ride slow without riding the clutch. Such as going up hill on a unpaved road on a warm day. I was surprised how long the first clutch lasted since it was often treated like that.

Another thing with these carbs--the choke was NEVER needed regardless of how cold it was. It would start fine without the choke and the BMW dealer (San Carlos, CA or was it Redwood City, CA? <near the border>)even told me that the day I purchased the bike new in May of 1971. So I guess they ran rich too, as normal and new for these.

When I put on the new Mukuni's (from the advice of San Jose BMW), it rode like a new bike with no trace of this problem. But if that made it ride worse at above 5,000 feet on the freeway, I am not sure as that was a very long time ago I changed out the Bings. Had to be in the 70's and that I don't remember if the bike was ever even up that high with the Bing's. But I assume the Bing's would run very poorly up there too as they ran rich even at sea level.

-Don- Reno, NV

DonTom said:

...

Another thing with these carbs--the choke was NEVER needed regardless of how cold it was. It would start fine without the choke and the BMW dealer (San Carlos, CA or was it Redwood City, CA? <near the border>)even told me that the day I purchased the bike new in May of 1971. So I guess they ran rich too, as normal and new for these.
.....
Don- Reno, NV

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Was there no warranty ?