Stumped - r1150r won't start

[jeff.ferguson]

I went out to fire up the r1150r this afternoon, and hit the starter button - no click, click, click - nothing. I don't hear the fuel pump whine either. I tried jump starting it, still nothing. Lights, clock, horn, brakes and all other electric circuitry seems to work.

I replaced the handlebar risers yesterday, but didn't start the bike before or after until I tried today. Could I have worked a connection loose underneath somewhere when I had the bars off? I looked hard and couldn't find anything that looks as if it came disconnected, and I had the fuel tank off to charge the battery and replace the air filter.

I charged the battery all day - still nothing. I got concerned when jump starting it didn't work either.

Any hints? I'm capable of some level of maintenance myself, but anything that gets too detailed I'd rather leave to the professionals.

Thanks

 

[pauls1150]

No fuel pump is a major clue as to "where". Re-examine the 4-conductor plug at the right bottom rear of the tank.
Also scrutinize all the fuses; I think it's 5 and 6 that'll do that to ya.

 

[BC1100S]

Kill switch?

 

[jeff.ferguson]

Not the kill switch, side stand, or in gear - checked all that. Good call on the fuse and the connector - I'll check again.

 

[David13]

I think you have to take a serious look at what was touched, or nearly touched when you were working on the bars.
Something happened right there.
You just have to find what it was.
dc

 

[jeff.ferguson]

Pauls1150, in reference to your comment "Re-examine the 4-conductor plug at the right bottom rear of the tank", I'm not sure which one you're talking about, but I have checked every connector I can find/see. I checked all the fuses and they look good too. I think the next step might be to figure out how to take apart the section where the kill switch is located. Looks like a delicate job, but maybe when I was messing with the bars the kill switch came disconnected or something.

 

[Omega Man]

I'm curious how old the battery is. If this whole thing is coincidental, and the battery has given up, I don't think it can be jumped from less than a running vehicle. I've had all the same symptoms of this in a sudden death battery situation. Of course the safest way to test this would be remove the battery and test with a known good "donor" battery.
OM

 

[jeff.ferguson]

Omega man - I was headed down the bad battery route earlier, but didn't want to buy a new battery before eliminating everything else. The lights are bright, BUT, the red battery light is on, even after charging all day. I thought jump starting it (with car running) would compensate if the battery was bad - is that a bad assumption?

 

[cele0001]

Do the lights dim when you hit the button?

 

[jeff.ferguson]

Do the lights dim when you hit the button?

Nope....

 

[cele0001]

Than it shouldn't be battery or the starter. When you flip the kill switch off and back on you should get the pump prime. Bike in neutral

 

[Omega Man]

Omega man - I was headed down the bad battery route earlier, but didn't want to buy a new battery before eliminating everything else. The lights are bright, BUT, the red battery light is on, even after charging all day. I thought jump starting it (with car running) would compensate if the battery was bad - is that a bad assumption?

Jumping with a car running should make it start and is a good test. The guys above this post ^^ have some good, quick tests. I would be nice to see a meter on it (battery) from key on to starter button pushed.
The sudden death battery failure would not start my F800 with a battery (donor) sitting on the ground. It had to be a running car and it would not stay running after the car was unhooked. My guess is my battery had a sudden plate separation as I rode it to the P.O. fine- off for 3 minutes- then nothing.
OM

 

[jeff.ferguson]

I used the outside positive post and the frame (with the car running), but thinking I'll try hooking the positive terminal up to the starter tomorrow. I would think the starter would have at least clicked, which it did not.

Has anyone ever taken apart the throttle housing on the handlebars? I have a hunch it has something to do with that - push the starter button and I get nothing'.

 

[23217]

Do not hook your jumper cables directly to the starter. Normally, there is a relay between the battery and the stater. Inside starter relay, there is a diode. This diode prevents a sudden surge of energy into the starter that can damage or melt the windings.

My guess is that the problem is something you did, or the battery. My guess is the battery.

 

[jeff.ferguson]

Do not hook your jumper cables directly to the starter. Normally, there is a relay between the battery and the stater. Inside starter relay, there is a diode. This diode prevents a sudden surge of energy into the starter that can damage or melt the windings.

My guess is that the problem is something you did, or the battery. My guess is the battery.

I agree that it's likely something I did and/or the battery. I clipped a bunch of zip ties to move the handlebars up, and although I know I didn't cut any wires, I could have jiggled something loose. One last question for the night - would a bad battery prevent the fuel pump from whirring to life considering the lights work? I get how it might not turn over the starter, but to not even bring the fuel pump to life seems odd.

My next troubleshooting steps will be to check connections again, ensure the fuel pump is getting power, and try jump starting it again. It's been a frustrating day. Hit 70 degrees here today, and after a long cold winter I was so ready to go out for a spin.

Thanks for all the input....I'm not hauling it off to the dealer just yet!

 

[Omega Man]

I used the outside positive post and the frame (with the car running), but thinking I'll try hooking the positive terminal up to the starter tomorrow. I would think the starter would have at least clicked, which it did not.

Has anyone ever taken apart the throttle housing on the handlebars? I have a hunch it has something to do with that - push the starter button and I get nothing'.

I really like a direct connection in the case of a jump. When a battery has "the sudden death", it acts like a black hole for 12V and it's not easy to overcome during the jump process.

Do not hook your jumper cables directly to the starter. Normally, there is a relay between the battery and the stater. Inside starter relay, there is a diode. This diode prevents a sudden surge of energy into the starter that can damage or melt the windings.

My guess is that the problem is something you did, or the battery. My guess is the battery.

I don't know about the diode but I like the thinking. When you bypass things, it's easer to cause damage because some safeties were possibly bypassed also.
Who knows, you could suddenly wake up in the morning and the answer will be evident.
OM

 

[23217]

What is the voltage of the battery?
What is the voltage of the battery under a load?

The answer will probably solve the problem.

Last year I had the same problem. Replaced the battery with a PC680. Solved the problem. Not uncommon to find a dead battery come Spring. Especially, if you didn't have a battery tender on it. A cold Winter can separate the plates. The result is a battery that has some energy, but not enough to power up the bike. You can try to recharge the battery until the cows come home, but you will have the same results you have now.

Another tip that the battery is close to reaching the end of it's life, is when the ABS alternating lights come on when you try to start the bike when it is cold. The PC680 runs at a higher voltage that the ABS system likes.

 

[cele0001]

Do not hook your jumper cables directly to the starter. Normally, there is a relay between the battery and the stater. Inside starter relay, there is a diode. This diode prevents a sudden surge of energy into the starter that can damage or melt the windings.

My guess is that the problem is something you did, or the battery. My guess is the battery.

main positive Connection at the starter is wired directly to the battery positive terminal. There is no difference between connecting it to the starter vs battery positive terminal. The rest of the statement is complete nonsense resulting prom piecing various incomplete information into one sentence.

 

[cele0001]

What is the voltage of the battery?
. The PC680 runs at a higher voltage that the ABS system likes.

What? unlike all other 12v batteries that ABS system doesn't like as much?

 

[23217]

The image speaks for itself. Check out Relay #1. BMW got relay "happy" with the oilhead, which isn't a bad thing.

I see you are new to the forum. Welcome to the forum. Do a search on ABS alternating lights. That way we don't get off on a tangent. The voltage issue of the ABS system has been discussed on this forum so many times.

Let's stick to solving the OP's problem, which most likely is the battery.