Another RS Project

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I see! I don't know if this matters but my RS has the ride-off centerstand

Reynolds Ride-Offs use the same notch, and in theory could spread also, but I think their design is a bit stronger. On mine, so far so good.

 

[habdala]

Day 7

I removed the valve covers and cylinders, all looks good but there is some sideways play in the connecting rods but no in or out, is that normal?

Left cylinder head

Left cylinder

Piston top and bottom, they look good.

Tranny out

There was no grease in the spline but looks good no signs of wear.

Engine out

Frame

I will remove the clutch to see if needs a new plate, 65K miles don't how long will the go but since I' there should be cheaper to do it now than later.

Any other suggestions?

 

[kbasa]

Those splines look kinda worn to me. They should be a uniform thickness from base to tip.

 

[habdala]

Those splines look kinda worn to me. They should be a uniform thickness from base to tip.

I measure it and reads .925 out middle and back of the shaft.

Here is a better picture

There is some play but is tight.

 

[habdala]

The clutch

Looks good and the thickness of the friction plate is within limits I think, correct me if I'm wrong. PO installed a light flywheel and replaced the rear main seal a few years back.

Friction plate

Spring looks good to me but questionable.

Looking from the bottom looks good.

 

[20774]

My Haynes says that the minimum thickness for a clutch plate is 5.75mm thru the 1980 model year. Your measurement is right at the min thickness...are you really going to reuse that part? Haynes also lists the relaxed height of the fingered spring as 17.1-17.7mm.

I'm facing a clutch rebuild on my /7 and will likely do it this winter. I have nearly 100K on the clutch. Without even measuring things, I plan on replacing everything. I don't EVEN want to go back in there again in order to just squeeze out a few more thousand miles on a questionable part. I'm there...it's getting replaced. That's just me I guess!

 

[habdala]

My Haynes says that the minimum thickness for a clutch plate is 5.75mm thru the 1980 model year. Your measurement is right at the min thickness...are you really going to reuse that part? Haynes also lists the relaxed height of the fingered spring as 17.1-17.7mm.

I'm facing a clutch rebuild on my /7 and will likely do it this winter. I have nearly 100K on the clutch. Without even measuring things, I plan on replacing everything. I don't EVEN want to go back in there again in order to just squeeze out a few more thousand miles on a questionable part. I'm there...it's getting replaced. That's just me I guess!

Wow! big diff, my Clymer says 4.5 mm I tought I was good for another 50k miles.

 

[kbasa]

Excellent flywheel lock.

 

[20774]

Wow! big diff, my Clymer says 4.5 mm I tought I was good for another 50k miles.

Hold on there...you might be right I see the "service limit" as 4.5mm. What I was reading was maybe the thickness range?? It lists 5.75 - 6.25mm. I mistook the 5.75 as the lower limit. You might be good to go... Sorry...

 

[habdala]

Hold on there...you might be right I see the "service limit" as 4.5mm. What I was reading was maybe the thickness range?? It lists 5.75 - 6.25mm. I mistook the 5.75 as the lower limit. You might be good to go... Sorry...

Good.... I just saved some mula for a while that is.

 

[habdala]

Excellent flywheel lock.

We need to use the tools in hand

 

[habdala]

Frame

Frame ready for powdercoat.

 

[TGHSMITH]

put a touch of the moly paste were the spring fingers come in contact with the back of the plate....

 

[Yarddog]

There's another thread goin' that discusses powder coating on the frame...in it, you'll not that some folks, myself included and especially, believe that powder coating has NO advantages for the end user, but does have advantages for the production process...folks have gotten it confused with porcelain coating, which isn't appropriate for frame coating anyway...

My suggestion is to paint the frame using the technique I and others have espoused on that other frame...don't waste money or effort on powder coating!

 

[kstoo]

... there is some sideways play in the connecting rods but no in or out, is that normal?

2 cents. That is 'normal' if they are sliding sideways, not rocking. The rod bearings are not really expensive but getting to them later will be. They might feel ok but it is best to take em out and measure. That is my new policy now anyway.

On that spline, the diameter measurement doesn't mean much. Visually compare the spline shape to the part that the clutch plate has not worn down by the transmission.

 

[AntonLargiader]

Frame ready for powdercoat.

I think you know it's not nearly ready; you have to remove everything including the front subframe, steering head bearing races, centerstand, gas tank mounts, sidestand stop, etc. The frame unit needs to be completely alone. Then it needs to be degreased, and the threaded holes and bearing pockets need to be masked off, but the coater will probably do that stuff.

 

[habdala]

I think you know it's not nearly ready; you have to remove everything including the front subframe, steering head bearing races, centerstand, gas tank mounts, sidestand stop, etc. The frame unit needs to be completely alone. Then it needs to be degreased, and the threaded holes and bearing pockets need to be masked off, but the coater will probably do that stuff.

Here we go, now is ready. I need to do the swing arm too but don't know how to remove the drive shaft from it.

 

[AntonLargiader]

I still see a SH bearing race. It's tempting to say you can leave it in there to protect the pocket from powder, but you can't degrease the area with the race there. The grease that's in back of it can contaminate the coating when it burns off in the oven.

Edit: or is the pocket just shiny?

 

[habdala]

I still see a SH bearing race. It's tempting to say you can leave it in there to protect the pocket from powder, but you can't degrease the area with the race there. The grease that's in back of it can contaminate the coating when it burns off in the oven.

Edit: or is the pocket just shiny?

It's just shiny, they are going to sand blast and wash the frame before powder. This guy does a lot of bike and motorcycle frames he knows his stuff.

Check out his gallery:

http://www.figureengineering.com/

 

[wuzred]

Not trying to hijack this thread but, someone mentioned having to replace the timing chain and sprockets. Are there telltale signs this should be done short of taking the front of the engine off for inspection?
My '82 RS has 162,000 on the clock and runs great.