Another RS Project

[JAMESDUNN]

No problems with the oil light does go away after bike starts. Yes push rods seals are on the list and all the gaskets that will go along with the rod job.

Do not forget to drop the oil pan and install a new gasket. The oil pickup may and probably will need to have the bolts tightened. Clean everything up while you're in there. Use a newer fiber gasket, although these may be all that are available now.

 

[Yarddog]

I'm loving this thread...I'm doin' the same thing on my R100/7 right now, and I'm able to follow along and see what things look like BEFORE I get mine to that point, as you're a little ahead of me!! Yep...plagerizing yer project...hey, it's what I do! LOL

 

[habdala]

I'm loving this thread...I'm doin' the same thing on my R100/7 right now, and I'm able to follow along and see what things look like BEFORE I get mine to that point, as you're a little ahead of me!! Yep...plagerizing yer project...hey, it's what I do! LOL

Wrong guy to follow! Just having fun tearing this thing down the real project begins when you put it back together.

 

[kbasa]

BTDT, last year.

After:

If I can offer one bit of advice, it would be to do something every single day for this project. Projects stall when you take time off, so do one little thing each day. It could be reading the manual, organizing parts, shopping for new parts, cleaning parts or whatever, but do something every day to keep the momentum going.

 

[kwb210]

what repair manual?

And I don't mean WHAT repair manual?
I mean what brand or whose repair manual are you using? I am half way into my 1977 R100/7 clutch and using a Clymers and a factory, they somewhat compliment each other, plus articles from various experts i have copied off. I have taken lots of pics, made notes, and used zip lock sandwich bags for ALL bolts w/ a piece of paper in the bag with a note. One of the reasons is that so many of my projects get interrupted and then I have a memory issue, like what the heck is that bolt for! My bike has 72,000 miles and was VERY well cared for, i got lucky. My intention on the repairs is to bring it back at least close to the original specs.
Keep us posted!
Thanks
Kurt
1977 R100/7

 

[535IS]

from the pics it looks like the clutch lever pin on the back of the tran is installed with the clip on top, make sure you put it in with the clip on the bottom.

Not to be a snot, but ... why? I ask because I nearly lost the pivot pin a month or two after I got my bike when the e clip went missing. I noticed that the clip depression (that doesn't actually have a clip specified for it) was on the bottom. So it serves no purpose whatsoever. At least when it's at the top, if you put a clip on it (as I plan to upon reassembly), the thing has to overcome gravity to come out.

Actually, I find the whole design to be baffling. It can't be some critical engineering reason because I've seen at least three different arrangements of pins/bolts on different Airheads. I don't blame those backyard 'hacks' who have substituted a bolt of the proper diameter for the pin. At least they won't suddenly find themselves pulling a clutch lever that does nothing ...

 

[TGHSMITH]

I've seen about three differant types of pivot pins out there, if it has clip on one end and a larger end on the other, slide it in from the top so it won't fall out if the clip goes astray. best to fit the bolt and nylock nut that went into use 81 on. basically if the pin falls out halfway and you pull in the clutch you just bought a replacement back trans plate....

 

[habdala]

BTDT, last year.

After:

If I can offer one bit of advice, it would be to do something every single day for this project. Projects stall when you take time off, so do one little thing each day. It could be reading the manual, organizing parts, shopping for new parts, cleaning parts or whatever, but do something every day to keep the momentum going.

Great advice, I will keep the flame going specially in the winter days.

 

[habdala]

And I don't mean WHAT repair manual?
I mean what brand or whose repair manual are you using? I am half way into my 1977 R100/7 clutch and using a Clymers and a factory, they somewhat compliment each other, plus articles from various experts i have copied off. I have taken lots of pics, made notes, and used zip lock sandwich bags for ALL bolts w/ a piece of paper in the bag with a note. One of the reasons is that so many of my projects get interrupted and then I have a memory issue, like what the heck is that bolt for! My bike has 72,000 miles and was VERY well cared for, i got lucky. My intention on the repairs is to bring it back at least close to the original specs.
Keep us posted!
Thanks
Kurt
1977 R100/7

I know I will wind up with a bunch of spacers, washers and a few bolts thinking where do these go?

 

[bob_m]

I know I will wind up with a bunch of spacers, washers and a few bolts thinking where do these go?

Kbasa had enough parts left over to make a /2

 

[kbasa]

And I don't mean WHAT repair manual?
I mean what brand or whose repair manual are you using? I am half way into my 1977 R100/7 clutch and using a Clymers and a factory, they somewhat compliment each other, plus articles from various experts i have copied off. I have taken lots of pics, made notes, and used zip lock sandwich bags for ALL bolts w/ a piece of paper in the bag with a note. One of the reasons is that so many of my projects get interrupted and then I have a memory issue, like what the heck is that bolt for! My bike has 72,000 miles and was VERY well cared for, i got lucky. My intention on the repairs is to bring it back at least close to the original specs.
Keep us posted!
Thanks
Kurt
1977 R100/7

YOu're putting all the nuts and bolts and small assemblies in ZipLoc bags and marking them with a Sharpie, right? This will help you when you go to reassemble. I drew diagrams on bits of paper and threw them in the bag with the bits in a couple instances.

DO NOT THROW THEM INTO A BIG BUCKET.

 

[TGHSMITH]

murphy's law of mechanics states "if you take something apart and put it back together enough times, you will end up with two of them and neither will function."

 

[kbasa]

murphy's law of mechanics states "if you take something apart and put it back together enough times, you will end up with two of them and neither will function."

3

When I had my CS apart, I had the centerstand welded so it's stronger. I had a couple of bits added to the centerstand itself, which creates a bigger contact patch on the frame. It only cost me $20 or something, but the centerstand is way stronger.

If you look at the frame in this photo, you can see where the centerstand was contacting and how the frame was starting to wear. Now, with a bigger contact area, I know the stand won't collapse on me.

I added little feet to the base, but wouldn't do that again. It makes the bike harder to get on the centerstand.

 

[535IS]

I've seen about three differant types of pivot pins out there, if it has clip on one end and a larger end on the other, slide it in from the top so it won't fall out if the clip goes astray. best to fit the bolt and nylock nut that went into use 81 on. basically if the pin falls out halfway and you pull in the clutch you just bought a replacement back trans plate....

... and my back trans plate has a kick starter sticking through it, so I doubt I'd find it cheap and used. I think I'll go with the bolt. Not only is it a visually verifiable installation, I can see no reasonable way to extract that e clip once it's been installed. Heck, I'm not entirely certain how to get it in. Parts diagram:

#11 goes on #12 between the clutch arm and the pivot ear on the gearbox. I wonder if a teflon or nylon washer in there where the e clip goes might smooth things out.

 

[Yarddog]

Wrong guy to follow! Just having fun tearing this thing down the real project begins when you put it back together.

No, no, you da man!!! I think I may pass you though pretty soon, although you're moving pretty fast...and I agree with the suggestion to do a little each day... sometimes momentum fades... I don't have the passion for this project, frankly, that I did for my Harley project a year ago, but, hey...

 

[habdala]

day 5 and 6

Racquetball tournament no play with the toys Grommet.

 

[habdala]

YOu're putting all the nuts and bolts and small assemblies in ZipLoc bags and marking them with a Sharpie, right? This will help you when you go to reassemble. I drew diagrams on bits of paper and threw them in the bag with the bits in a couple instances.

DO NOT THROW THEM INTO A BIG BUCKET.

Sunday will be my day of organizing my parts, I did used marked Ziplock bags I think was a great idea after reading a post by other inmate in this forum. No diagrams for me just a bunch of photos I have taken before I remove a part showing electrical connections and attachments to that area. It's been a interesting project for me.

Thank you all for your comments and recommendations.

 

[habdala]

3

When I had my CS apart, I had the centerstand welded so it's stronger. I had a couple of bits added to the centerstand itself, which creates a bigger contact patch on the frame. It only cost me $20 or something, but the centerstand is way stronger.

If you look at the frame in this photo, you can see where the centerstand was contacting and how the frame was starting to wear. Now, with a bigger contact area, I know the stand won't collapse on me.

I added little feet to the base, but wouldn't do that again. It makes the bike harder to get on the centerstand.

Why? it doesn't feel like the center stand lock in place?

 

[kbasa]

Why? it doesn't not feel like the center stand lock in place?

Eventually, the sides of the centerstand get spread out. You'll go to put the bike on the centerstand and it'll go all the way over and fall down.

 

[habdala]

Eventually, the sides of the centerstand get spread out. You'll go to put the bike on the centerstand and it'll go all the way over and fall down.

I see! I don't know if this matters but my RS has the ride-off centerstand