2000 K1200RS - Valve Shim Adjustment and Cam Chain Guides

[AntonLargiader]

Back to the timing chain and the lower sprocket, I have never worried about the chain losing time on the crank. I don't know if it's even possible, and you shouldn't need to move the crank with the cam sprockets off anyway. Worst case you find TDC with a dowel and set it up from there.

 

[1wheeldrive]

Back to the timing chain and the lower sprocket, I have never worried about the chain losing time on the crank. I don't know if it's even possible, and you shouldn't need to move the crank with the cam sprockets off anyway. Worst case you find TDC with a dowel and set it up from there.

Thank you, sir. That was the conclusion that I came to, based on all of the procedures saying to just tie the chain to the cam sprockets. Looking at how long and curved the chain guides are, especially the bottom one, I’m guessing that they keep the chain on the crank sprocket as long as you don’t turn the crank when it is untensioned. So, I went ahead and adjusted my valves without pulling the timing cover, this time.

I’ll probably go ahead and pull the timing cover next time I need to check them, and replace the guide parts that BMW calls for every 30k miles. Can’t hurt to follow the recommendation, and I’ll learn a little more about that part of the bike.

 

[AntonLargiader]

I've replaced a few of those linings, the most recent being about a month ago. The wear really is minimal (or nonexistent) but the old plastic is a bit harder than the new stuff. Based on my observations, I would replace when it's time to reseal the leaky timing cover rather than at 36k miles.

This is in stark contrast to the BMW N20 motor where the timing chain guides disintegrate and ruin the motor.

 

[1wheeldrive]

Thanks again. I appreciate you sharing your considerable Beemer knowledge