BMW Cam Chain Tensioner Assembly (tool alternatives - here we go again!)

[Scott9999]

As most of the K52 R1200xx owners know, BMW has made it's cam timing tools unavailable to the public. These include:



I also ordered these parts directly from Europe, waited months "on backorder", until I directly inquired and the vendor informed me that though they were still in their catalog, BMW wasn't shipping these parts.

A few members on this forum have done a great service, developing their own kits, now available for sale. While I do appreciate their enterprise, and I'd (reluctantly) cough up the cash for an OEM tool, their kit is a bit too rich for my blood for an after market made tool. (If for no other reason than I could resell an OEM tool later, but a machined duplicate, maybe not so much.)

Since my first effort, others have put similar tools out on the market (many, it seems, coming from the more mature BMW European market), others from Europe via China (ughh!).

I was able to find both duplicate alignment pin and jig tools on the market for a reasonable price, which also have good reviews from owners. The timing chain tensioner and spacing sleeve? Not so much, both in terms of availability and proven reliability. This is what I've found, thus far.

Nippy Normans - part MKS-TOA44292
Motorworks UK, same part, same price

I included Motorworks, which does not appear to have options for shipping to the USA (though such maybe available), because they have a little better tool operating description than Nippy Normans, plus a video. To wit:

This timing chain tensioner assembly tool is used to place the correct tension on the timing chain before performing the cam alignment procedure (using the valve locking tool TOA27790)

Important to note - when using this tool, hand tighten it on the chain slider. DO NOT use a wrench/spanner on it! This tool does not have a spring unlike the OEM tool. This spring is designed to limit the amount of torque on the chain guide so that you do not tighten in until it cracks. This is why with this tool it is important to hand tighten it, and you will be able to feel when the guide is pushing the chain which is when you then stop tightening it and continue with the engine work.

For the right hand side, on R1200 models leave a 10 mm gap between the brass part and the engine, since it does not protrude all the way in like on the left hand side.

After I sent in a question, Nippy Norman's returned the same video.

I also found a similar, alternative tool on Amazon.

Road Passion 11318542060 Cam Timing Chain Tensioner Compatible with BMW K50 (R 1200 GS)(10/2011-07/2018)/K51 (R 1200 GS Adventure)(09/2012-08/2018)/K52 (R 1200 RT)(01/2013-07/2018)/K53 (R 1200 R)

Neither of these tool alternatives includes the spacer sleeve, though the video and description indicates that there will be about a 10mm gap (right cylinder only?!), which looks to be equivalent to the OEM sleeve length. The OEM tool looks like this (note, the alignment pin tool and jig are top and bottom; the cam chain adjuster tools in between, along with the OEM sleeve.



This is the Nippy Norman/Motorworks alternative cam chain adjuster tool.



This is the version available on Amazon.



What I'm a bit uncomfortable on ALL of these non-OEM tools is the torque specification for the tools. I know the tool from our friends on this forum uses a spring to maintain the appropriate tension. The two other alternatives, pictures above (and the video example of the use of the tools), simply indicates "hand tight". BMW's OEM tool uses a clicker via the cap with pins pictures (and, I'm sure, an internal spring inside), to accurately calculate the tension required against the cam chain.

Bottom line and my question(s):
Has anyone else used the two alternative tools pictured above, only tensioned by hand, in timing their Wethead Beemers?
Do you know if any other/better alternative tools?
How torque-critical is the tension required against the timing chain? I realize that the extremes are breaking the chain, or leaving it slack, throwing off the cam chain timing adjustment, which I expect would be detected when the adjustment is checked with the jig.

My guess is that the hand tightened torque adjustment is safe, as long as the jig tests and confirms the adjustment.

Thanks in advance, for your feedback.

 

[boxflyer]

I have tried multiple examples of these Cam Chain Tensioners with this exact design above...NO spring, just direct contact with the plastic cam chain guide.
None of these have given repeatable, matching results to duplicate what the OEM Cam Chain Tensioner with a spring in it does...NONE.

Just as you pointed out, too little tension on the cam chain guide, and the complete relationship between the crankshaft and the cams will be wrong.
Too much tension, and you can easily crush/crack the plastic cam chain guide rail.

I still don't see how any of the above alternatives can reliably and safely be substitutes for the OEM version OR the version I designed with an exact duplicate pressure for this procedure.

 

[Scott9999]

@boxflyer

Again, if I understand the engineering and how the tools work, I assume that the alignment jig would tell you if you ended up with the cam alignment wrong, i.e. it'd be obvious. I would suspect that the (calculated) risk is in overtightening. How tight is too tight, absent the OEM tool? Answer: "crack", there goes the plastic guide rail. (It can't be THAT hard to replace it, right? )

I didn't want to call you and/or Joe Pilz out on the tools, but since you joined the chat and contributed, I'll promote your/his tools, too.
(FYI to all: This is for the Wetheads; he has them for Shiftcam's, too).

Pilz Machine R1200RT tools

 

[kbasa]

@boxflyer

Again, if I understand the engineering and how the tools work, I assume that the alignment jig would tell you if you ended up with the cam alignment wrong, i.e. it'd be obvious. I would suspect that the (calculated) risk is in overtightening. How tight is too tight, absent the OEM tool? Answer: "crack", there goes the plastic guide rail. (It can't be THAT hard to replace it, right? )

I didn't want to call you and/or Joe Pilz out on the tools, but since you joined the chat and contributed, I'll promote your/his tools, too.
(FYI to all: This is for the Wetheads; he has them for Shiftcam's, too).

Pilz Machine R1200RT tools

You should watch the Boxflyer videos to see how the tension is set. I think it addresses your concern in the post above.

 

[boxflyer]

(It can't be THAT hard to replace it, right? )

Well, besides needing to remove the cylinder head on the affected side where you might need to replace a cam chain guide rail including the intermediate shaft and the chain sprocket, you also have to remove the transmission and alternator/stator to gain access to the pivot bearing screws that secure the inner end of the plastic rail.

Sure, a set of 4 rails including pivot bearing bolts is just less than $110, I am guessing that the labor and other associated rebuild parts would be somewhere around $4000.

This Cam Chain Tensioner is a SERIOUS tool and maybe not worth doing the R&D on it yourself.
I did all this on my own bike knowing full well the possible damage that could result.

I'm not advocating that ANYONE do this work themselves, it is NOT routine maintenance. It is only called for in the RSD Service DVD if you need to replace a Camshaft for some reason.

Just be careful...please!

 

[Scott9999]

You should watch the Boxflyer videos to see how the tension is set. I think it addresses your concern in the post above.

Lol, I've watched them so many times, I think I have 'em memorized. In the regular tuning video series, Brad uses the OEM tool, i.e. "3 clicks" to tension. The alternate tools lack that feature. (Not sure about Brad's tool, as all those video's are now set offline/private.)

My guess is that at 12K miles, my bike's valves and cams are set correctly (i.e. dealer did the service). However, it bugs me when I can't verify it myself, since there are reports of both being set incorrectly from either factor or dealer. My buddy tells me to just ride the thing, but what does he know anyway.

 

[omega man]

(Not sure about Brad's tool, as all those video's are now set offline/private.)

From Brad's sig line- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeJAqO8pJpydWQ4z6iNOs9g/

Hope that helps.
OM

 

[kbasa]

Lol, I've watched them so many times, I think I have 'em memorized. In the regular tuning video series, Brad uses the OEM tool, i.e. "3 clicks" to tension. The alternate tools lack that feature. (Not sure about Brad's tool, as all those video's are now set offline/private.)

My guess is that at 12K miles, my bike's valves and cams are set correctly (i.e. dealer did the service). However, it bugs me when I can't verify it myself, since there are reports of both being set incorrectly from either factor or dealer. My buddy tells me to just ride the thing, but what does he know anyway.

Note that to set the tension with the alternate tool, you first adjust the loading point to be the same height as the sleeve, then tighten it with 12 revolutions. If the distance is equivalent to the factory tensioner, there's not really a difference from the factory tensioner.

I was thinking maybe you missed the level of specificity used to set the Pilz tensioner.

 

[Scott9999]

Note that to set the tension with the alternate tool, you first adjust the loading point to be the same height as the sleeve, then tighten it with 12 revolutions. If the distance is equivalent to the factory tensioner, there's not really a difference from the factory tensioner.

I was thinking maybe you missed the level of specificity used to set the Pilz tensioner.

You and Brad have confirmed what I needed to know. Brad has a specific tension he is duplicating with his tool, having extensively tested it to match the OEM tool's result. The other two alternatives tools are simply guessing at the tension, i.e. "hand tight". As I mentioned, I expect that rechecking with the jig after adjustment would verify the end result, i.e. that the tension was correct before cam tension modifications, but there's no way to know that one's bear sized hands won't break the plastic guide rail, which is an expensive "oops". I'm also not saying that it can't be done using the alternative (European & Chinese made duplicate) tools, but no one can guarantee they won't damage the bike in the process. Torque amounts are set for a reason.

 

[boxflyer]

I just returned from the week long BMWST.com START Rally where I did 9 Cam Timing/Valve Clearance Services. (now up to 192 completed services)

During those services, I again tried the Cam Chain Tensioner you list as offered by Nippy Norman/Motorworks with totally unacceptable results.
As a matter of fact, the alignment jig was even further off than if you tried to fit the alignment jig with just the normal operating cam chain tensioner in place and no tool at all.

Don't be fooled by these attempts to perform precision work on a Boxer Engine when they DO NOT duplicate the BMW Factory Tool.

 

[Scott9999]

I just returned from the week long BMWST.com START Rally where I did 9 Cam Timing/Valve Clearance Services. (now up to 192 completed services)

During those services, I again tried the Cam Chain Tensioner you list as offered by Nippy Norman/Motorworks with totally unacceptable results.
As a matter of fact, the alignment jig was even further off than if you tried to fit the alignment jig with just the normal operating cam chain tensioner in place and no tool at all.

Don't be fooled by these attempts to perform precision work on a Boxer Engine when they DO NOT duplicate the BMW Factory Tool.

Thanks for following up on that Brad, especially for going the extra mile in testing their product. Honestly, their directions left me dumbfounded. They direct the user/mechanic to use the precision hand tightening technique, which is a oxymoron. There is NO precision in hand tightening, which is why they invented cool, advanced engineering tools like torque wrenches. Here's really where they go wrong.

This tool does not have a spring unlike the OEM tool. This spring is designed to limit the amount of torque on the chain guide so that you do not tighten in until it cracks. This is why with this tool it is important to hand tighten it, and you will be able to feel when the guide is pushing the chain which is when you then stop tightening it and continue with the engine work.

1) There's more than just a spring involved in setting the correct torque.
2) There's a larger concern than simply not cracking the chain guide, as in, the reason for doing the cam chain check in the first place.

Their solution was impacted via invalid assumptions.

I respect the work you've done. You've tested against the OEM tool and against actual results. I am absolutely certain that the imitation designers and machinists have done little to no testing. They made a look-a-like tool, which for sales purposes, is "good enough". After all, it's not like there's competition from BMW as far as availability. It's an easy market to crack.

 

[boxflyer]

No problem, it's not about the price of these tools, it's about the performance...if it does not do exactly what the BMW tool does, it wouldn't matter if the item was free...