C
criminaldesign
Guest
hey man, get both sparking? h
-
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My 1974 R90/6 never-ending project, with plenty of pics.
- Thread starter crazydrummerdude
- Start date
crazydrummerdude
advrider.com
Well, like I said, I replaced the points. I gapped it by eye, since I couldn't get a feeler gauge in there.
The old one looked pretty rotten.
I spent some time finally rebuilding my master cylinder.
It seems a previous owner adjusted the cable with a vice grips (or whatever) directly on the threads.
..but I ended up cleaning up more than the threads that I'll be using anyway.
I then tore apart my caliper, even though the rebuild kit is STILL on backorder.
I can't tell if this ring is part of the caliper design or part of the rubber boot. It's obviously it's own distinct part, but, it's pressed in pretty tight, and the boot came out without it. It is crooked, though. Not true to the face of the caliper.
Well, down to business. I ended up unplugging, and replugging a bunch of wires. I switched some up, and around, and back and forth.. then yabadabadoo! I had spark on both cylinders. So, I rolled it out to the end of the shed, and got it prepped for it's first spin around the field.
Here we go..
<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://img.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v469/aretnap69/bmw_r90/20081222054.flv">
After 25 years of silence and rust, it was alive again! I put it up in the 4k rpm range. It sounded good. It felt fine. Then, I noticed the left pipe started to get really hot.
So, I popped the valve covers off, and the oil on the left side flowed like water as compared to the molases of the other side. It was much hotter on the left, as evidenced by the oil I let spill out.
So, I didn't take it for a spin. Now I've gotta research as to what may be causing the heat.
But, otherwise, I consider today a HUGE success.
Here's a shot of the headlight wiring harness. It'll be tough to decipher. Some of the wires are soldered in place of the fuses.
The old one looked pretty rotten.
I spent some time finally rebuilding my master cylinder.
It seems a previous owner adjusted the cable with a vice grips (or whatever) directly on the threads.
..but I ended up cleaning up more than the threads that I'll be using anyway.
I then tore apart my caliper, even though the rebuild kit is STILL on backorder.
I can't tell if this ring is part of the caliper design or part of the rubber boot. It's obviously it's own distinct part, but, it's pressed in pretty tight, and the boot came out without it. It is crooked, though. Not true to the face of the caliper.
Well, down to business. I ended up unplugging, and replugging a bunch of wires. I switched some up, and around, and back and forth.. then yabadabadoo! I had spark on both cylinders. So, I rolled it out to the end of the shed, and got it prepped for it's first spin around the field.
Here we go..
<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://img.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v469/aretnap69/bmw_r90/20081222054.flv">
After 25 years of silence and rust, it was alive again! I put it up in the 4k rpm range. It sounded good. It felt fine. Then, I noticed the left pipe started to get really hot.
So, I popped the valve covers off, and the oil on the left side flowed like water as compared to the molases of the other side. It was much hotter on the left, as evidenced by the oil I let spill out.
So, I didn't take it for a spin. Now I've gotta research as to what may be causing the heat.
But, otherwise, I consider today a HUGE success.
Here's a shot of the headlight wiring harness. It'll be tough to decipher. Some of the wires are soldered in place of the fuses.
crazydrummerdude
advrider.com
Nope.. I didn't see that. I think the crossover from the headers that came on the bike are still salvageable. The reason I'm using the trash ones is that they're already together. My original ones aren't, since the one side was destroyed to get it un-stuck from the head.
108625
New member
If you're running hot on one side only, make sure you're not running lean on that side. It could be carb adjustment, a restricted jet or fuel supply, or an air leak at the carb or inlet boot. Even a leak on the exhaust side can draw in fresh oxygen that burns in the pipe and superheats it.
If you can't find anything there, maybe your ignition timing was way too advanced and the fuel enrichener (choke) on one side or the other was stuck.
(Either stuck shut on the hot side, or open on the cooler side.)
Before you take anything apart though, I'd retorque the heads and check the valve adjustment on the engine cold.
Not neccessarily all the answers, but the first ones that came to mind when I read your latest post.
Happy wrenching!
If you can't find anything there, maybe your ignition timing was way too advanced and the fuel enrichener (choke) on one side or the other was stuck.
(Either stuck shut on the hot side, or open on the cooler side.)
Before you take anything apart though, I'd retorque the heads and check the valve adjustment on the engine cold.
Not neccessarily all the answers, but the first ones that came to mind when I read your latest post.
Happy wrenching!
crazydrummerdude
advrider.com
Had a pretty good day out in the shop today. Looks like photobucket is back up again, so here are the pictures!
I think I solved the running-hot issue on the left side. It appears to have been an issue of severely unbalanced carbs, and maybe some junk in a jet or two. What I did was swapped out the innards and blow everything out with compressed air. Here's the plug on that side, anyway. It looks new, still.
I took it for its first spin under its own power in.. 25? years. The steering bearings were so notched, it was hard to steer it well.. and the ground was pretty soggy.
<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://img.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v469/aretnap69/bmw_r90/20081224085.flv">
I parked it in the field and walked back to the shed to get my camera to get a shot of it. Some super-cool skater kids were walking by on the sidewalk. One yelled something at me, but I didn't look over. Then he yelled "Heeeyyy!" So, I looked at him. He said, "I'm going to steal that." I'd give a hearty chuckle seeing some kid hop on it and try to start it, let alone drive it away with the notched bearings and soggy ground.. that is, before I opened a can of whoopass. Haha.
I pulled it back into the shed, and in the process of taking the tank off, I broke the brittle old hand-wheel of the steering damper. Oh well..
I figured I'd try my hand at the steering bearings. It was still early in the day, and I wasn't doing anything else. While I worked on my BMW, one brother fixed the carb on our WR400. My other brother worked on a couple of our antique stationary engines.
These bars look crappy, but I've literally got $2 in my bank account right now, so they'll be going back on the bike.. unless I can modify my 7/8" Clubmans to fit! Ha.
I got to the part where the Clymer told me to remove the forks. Uh, well, I forgot my special tool for the bottom of the sliders at home (11 miles from my shop), so I thought I was at a stopping point.
Look at these rubber caps. Haha..
So, I re-attached the engine badges that had fallen off years ago. Turned this:
into this:
I thought I was done for the day, and I sat there a while. Then, I figured I'd at least try a backwards way at removing the bearings. So, I set to it.. I made a couple bone-head moves, but I learned a lot.
These 2 nuts were tough(!) to get off.
The bearings/races themselves didn't actually look too bad. They were just completely dry with old dried up grease cementing them together. But, I wasn't going to reuse them.
I even got the races out without a special puller! Just a crowbar and a heat gun.
The lower bearing broke. This was a hassle.
..but I got it out.
I didn't mark it for reassembly, because on both my BMW's, I have no idea how to operate the steering lock. Either that, or it requires a different key. At any rate, I don't plan on using it. So, I just eyeballed it back into original position during reassembly.
Then reassembled it, to a point.
I said to my brother that "apart from the caliper rebuild, all I've got left to do is the electrics." So, I decided to look into them a bit further... and what luck! It turns out the turn signal wiring harness is still in tact, but just disconnected. So, I hooked it back up, and installed the turn signals in the front. They work!
Then I got to the headlight harness. I worked with the wires enough to seperate the old fairing harness from the headlight harness.. and I was able to salvage the headlight harness (that BMW now charges $86 for)! Let there be light!
So, all I've got left to do is un-solder 4 blue wires (which are in place of the fuses!), and I can button up the headlight shell.
I am very, very pleased.
I think I solved the running-hot issue on the left side. It appears to have been an issue of severely unbalanced carbs, and maybe some junk in a jet or two. What I did was swapped out the innards and blow everything out with compressed air. Here's the plug on that side, anyway. It looks new, still.
I took it for its first spin under its own power in.. 25? years. The steering bearings were so notched, it was hard to steer it well.. and the ground was pretty soggy.
<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://img.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v469/aretnap69/bmw_r90/20081224085.flv">
I parked it in the field and walked back to the shed to get my camera to get a shot of it. Some super-cool skater kids were walking by on the sidewalk. One yelled something at me, but I didn't look over. Then he yelled "Heeeyyy!" So, I looked at him. He said, "I'm going to steal that." I'd give a hearty chuckle seeing some kid hop on it and try to start it, let alone drive it away with the notched bearings and soggy ground.. that is, before I opened a can of whoopass. Haha.
I pulled it back into the shed, and in the process of taking the tank off, I broke the brittle old hand-wheel of the steering damper. Oh well..
I figured I'd try my hand at the steering bearings. It was still early in the day, and I wasn't doing anything else. While I worked on my BMW, one brother fixed the carb on our WR400. My other brother worked on a couple of our antique stationary engines.
These bars look crappy, but I've literally got $2 in my bank account right now, so they'll be going back on the bike.. unless I can modify my 7/8" Clubmans to fit! Ha.
I got to the part where the Clymer told me to remove the forks. Uh, well, I forgot my special tool for the bottom of the sliders at home (11 miles from my shop), so I thought I was at a stopping point.
Look at these rubber caps. Haha..
So, I re-attached the engine badges that had fallen off years ago. Turned this:
into this:
I thought I was done for the day, and I sat there a while. Then, I figured I'd at least try a backwards way at removing the bearings. So, I set to it.. I made a couple bone-head moves, but I learned a lot.
These 2 nuts were tough(!) to get off.
The bearings/races themselves didn't actually look too bad. They were just completely dry with old dried up grease cementing them together. But, I wasn't going to reuse them.
I even got the races out without a special puller! Just a crowbar and a heat gun.
The lower bearing broke. This was a hassle.
..but I got it out.
I didn't mark it for reassembly, because on both my BMW's, I have no idea how to operate the steering lock. Either that, or it requires a different key. At any rate, I don't plan on using it. So, I just eyeballed it back into original position during reassembly.
Then reassembled it, to a point.
I said to my brother that "apart from the caliper rebuild, all I've got left to do is the electrics." So, I decided to look into them a bit further... and what luck! It turns out the turn signal wiring harness is still in tact, but just disconnected. So, I hooked it back up, and installed the turn signals in the front. They work!
Then I got to the headlight harness. I worked with the wires enough to seperate the old fairing harness from the headlight harness.. and I was able to salvage the headlight harness (that BMW now charges $86 for)! Let there be light!
So, all I've got left to do is un-solder 4 blue wires (which are in place of the fuses!), and I can button up the headlight shell.
I am very, very pleased.
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O
orbitangel
Guest
Remarkable Progress
Hey Nate,
You have made remarkable progress in a pretty short time frame.
You SHOULD be pleased!
A couple of things I noticed in your pictures above:
1. That is the worst looking set of points I have ever seen.
2. That centrifugal advance unit looks pretty bad too. You have probably taken care of that already but, in case you have decided to put it off 'til later...
That thing should be nice and clean (may I suggest a wire wheel) but ESPECIALLY - it must be free to 'pivot' on the camshaft stub. If you find that your engine revs tend to 'hang' after a throttle blip (your idle RPM @ 3 or 4,000) you will likely find the advance mechanism sticking.
That skinny end of the cam likes to be nice and clean and smooth. A little piece of ScotchBrite will do the trick nicely. Also, the ID (bore) of the advance assembly (inside the cams) also need to be clean and smooth. When you slip that on the cam (observing the position of the flat, of course) a couple of drops of engine oil or a very light grease (e.g. Lubriplate 130-A) will make the advance weights snap back nicely when you pull them out against the springs and will also prevent moisture from collecting in there and subsequently rusting the parts together.
I can see that you're not timid about getting in there and 'getting after it.'
Pirsig would be proud!
Congratulations, you're doing well!
Charlie
Hey Nate,
You have made remarkable progress in a pretty short time frame.
You SHOULD be pleased!
A couple of things I noticed in your pictures above:
1. That is the worst looking set of points I have ever seen.
2. That centrifugal advance unit looks pretty bad too. You have probably taken care of that already but, in case you have decided to put it off 'til later...
That thing should be nice and clean (may I suggest a wire wheel) but ESPECIALLY - it must be free to 'pivot' on the camshaft stub. If you find that your engine revs tend to 'hang' after a throttle blip (your idle RPM @ 3 or 4,000) you will likely find the advance mechanism sticking.
That skinny end of the cam likes to be nice and clean and smooth. A little piece of ScotchBrite will do the trick nicely. Also, the ID (bore) of the advance assembly (inside the cams) also need to be clean and smooth. When you slip that on the cam (observing the position of the flat, of course) a couple of drops of engine oil or a very light grease (e.g. Lubriplate 130-A) will make the advance weights snap back nicely when you pull them out against the springs and will also prevent moisture from collecting in there and subsequently rusting the parts together.
I can see that you're not timid about getting in there and 'getting after it.'
Pirsig would be proud!
Congratulations, you're doing well!
Charlie
crazydrummerdude
advrider.com
Thanks for the tips on the advance unit. It's "free" but that's a generous term. Looks like I'll be cleaning it up a bit more.
Also, check back on the last post of mine. I've added pics!
Also, check back on the last post of mine. I've added pics!
crazydrummerdude
advrider.com
Well, tonight when I walked out to my shop, my brother pointed out a little something I forgot to install on one of my bearings.. a rubber water seal. Guess which bearing? The lower one. So, I had to repeat almost the entire process to put that on and put it all back together. This time I did it all in about 15 minutes. Projects fly when you know what you're doing.
I thought I took more pics tonight, but apparently not.
After I finished off my steering bearings, I set to work on the wiring harnesses. I unsoldered the last remaining bit of the fairing wiring harness..
..and added some fuses. Everything still works, so I must be doing something right!
Then, Christmas supper time with the family.
After that, I was back out to the shop. This time I decided to tackle the fork seals. I remembered my special tool.
Man, was that freaking easy! I installed new fork boots, too. (Gotta get some hose clamps for those, or something.) Then, headlight. Then, everything else.
All I've got left on the agenda is the caliper rebuild. Then, I can worry about nit-picking nuts and bolts, and cleaning!
Looks like we've got a real motorcycle now..
I thought I took more pics tonight, but apparently not.
After I finished off my steering bearings, I set to work on the wiring harnesses. I unsoldered the last remaining bit of the fairing wiring harness..
..and added some fuses. Everything still works, so I must be doing something right!
Then, Christmas supper time with the family.
After that, I was back out to the shop. This time I decided to tackle the fork seals. I remembered my special tool.
Man, was that freaking easy! I installed new fork boots, too. (Gotta get some hose clamps for those, or something.) Then, headlight. Then, everything else.
All I've got left on the agenda is the caliper rebuild. Then, I can worry about nit-picking nuts and bolts, and cleaning!
Looks like we've got a real motorcycle now..
B
BUBBAZANETTI
Guest
sweet stuff man, keep up the good work!
K
keelerb
Guest
CDD, a couple pair of black cable ties will hold those fork gaiters on just fine - and they're almost invisible from a couple feet away, unless you're really looking for them.
crazydrummerdude
advrider.com
I rode the R75 to the local BMW dealer today to pick up some odds-n-ends for the R90. Come to think of it, the R75 probably needs some too.. haha.
Then, out to my shop. Just routine stuff today.
First thing, I changed out the fork oil.
I replaced those rotten old rubber caps with some nice new ones.
Then, I rode around the field for a while, just pleased as can be. I pulled it back in, and changed the oil and filter.
In the process, I turned this:
..into this:
I figured it was time to address something else. The last large thing that is still sitting on my bench, instead of on the bike. The battery holder. I'm surprised no one has called me out on it yet. I'm using the cheapest, smallest battery I could find. I have it propped up in place with an old oil filter from one of our Allis Chalmers tractors.
Now do you see it? Hahah.
So, on with the battery tray. It was (obviously) nasty when I got it. I took it off the bike a long time ago, and in the process had to remove one of the mounts with it, since I couldn't loosen it up. Well, I soaked it in WD40 some more, and got it free. Then, turned this:
..into this:
..and into this, minus grubby paw prints:
I looked around and we don't have any black spraypaint. Guess I'll go buy some, and touch up the frame under the master cylinder while I'm at it. Anyone have any suggestions as to what kind of paint?
I think I'll be at the farm this weekend. So, progress will have to wait until Sunday night or Monday.
Then, out to my shop. Just routine stuff today.
First thing, I changed out the fork oil.
I replaced those rotten old rubber caps with some nice new ones.
Then, I rode around the field for a while, just pleased as can be. I pulled it back in, and changed the oil and filter.
In the process, I turned this:
..into this:
I figured it was time to address something else. The last large thing that is still sitting on my bench, instead of on the bike. The battery holder. I'm surprised no one has called me out on it yet. I'm using the cheapest, smallest battery I could find. I have it propped up in place with an old oil filter from one of our Allis Chalmers tractors.
Now do you see it? Hahah.
So, on with the battery tray. It was (obviously) nasty when I got it. I took it off the bike a long time ago, and in the process had to remove one of the mounts with it, since I couldn't loosen it up. Well, I soaked it in WD40 some more, and got it free. Then, turned this:
..into this:
..and into this, minus grubby paw prints:
I looked around and we don't have any black spraypaint. Guess I'll go buy some, and touch up the frame under the master cylinder while I'm at it. Anyone have any suggestions as to what kind of paint?
I think I'll be at the farm this weekend. So, progress will have to wait until Sunday night or Monday.
AnnapolisAirhead
--Tony
Ha, airhead technology. You are making such very cool and great progress raising the presumed dead that I'd never have called you out on it even if I did catch it. Besides, I think you are doing everything right, not just doing it.
I just did my engine top cover with bumper paint from Pep Girls, its essentially flat with a very little gloss. After it had thoroughly dried, I buffed it a bit. Looks good. I've also heard that engine enamel in medium gloss works. Will it win a Best-In-Show? Nah, but most folks even up close probably wouldn't notice. On the battery tray (mine's next) I'd probably use the toughest stuff (enamel) I could find because of the sliding in of battery, minimal vibration, etc. I presume you'll get a gel battery to avoid the acid?
I bead blasted my valve covers and they are next, but I'm thinking of powder coating for my aluminum parts. On an old piece of steel, its too easy to miss some rust (even with sacrificial zinc primer) and I'd fear that the powder coating would just trap it. If the valve covers come out well, I might redo the top cover. For the rest, rattle can works for me.
Hey I also saw a used steering dampener on ibmwr.org. I read on here that the units are not rebuildable, but it was cheap enough if you just wanted the knob to replace your broken one.
Great photo diary. I probably should toss up my Toaster project pictures but just haven't gotten to it.
crazydrummerdude
advrider.com
Thank ye kindly.
When I first got this project, and stumbled upon the messed up transmission, and stuck left piston, I had people coming out of the woodwork telling me to part it out. Telling me that I'd have so much in it that it wouldn't be worth it. When I rebuilt the transmission, I even had a guy email me and tell me that rebuilding it wasn't a good idea because it's a '74.
Well, woopsie! I kept on (although slow at times), and guess what? I have a complete, running BMW motorcycle now.. and it hasn't cost me too much.
How much would someone pay for a 1974 R90/6 with new rings, freshly honed cylinders, new valves, new valve springs, bead blasted heads, rebuilt transmission with some new innards and all new bearings, new steering head bearings, freshly rebuilt carbs, freshly rebuilt master cylinder with new innards, (soon to be) freshly rebuilt caliper with new innards, new fork seals, new fork boots, new fork oil change, new engine oil change, new everything else oil change, etc etc?
Probably a lot. Definitely more than I currently have in it.. and I'm still going to ride the heck out of it. Seems like a good deal to me. This all goes without mentioning all the stuff I've learned and connections I've made in the process.
AnnapolisAirhead
--Tony
The golden nugget in a project like that is your last sentence: This all goes without mentioning all the stuff I've learned and connections I've made in the process.
That what I walked away with with my R100 (not quite lelft for dead, but untouched for 8 years). I bought it in a package deal with a '76 R90/76 and a trailer. Regrettably I sold the /6 and the trailer to fund the R100 stuff. Its been a great bike for me and indeed this forum, local airheads, etc. have taught me lots.
Your progress is inspiring, although I'm not certain I'd rebuild a trans--maybe. I would like to pull my trans to inspect as well as the steering head bearings. Both are 'fine' as far as I can tell but it'd be nice to know their condition.
kstoo
Huckleberry, Gilera &Toad
Well, woopsie! I kept on (although slow at times), and guess what? I have a complete, running BMW motorcycle now..
JUSTIFIED!!!
AND you have kept another good old motorcycle on the road. So quick to part out ... they ain't making them like this anymore.
J
James.A
Guest
Not all can be saved
I admire what Nathan has done here. He and I have spoken about these things.
Now, let me tell you the story of another 900.
A farmer who lives 4 miles east of me has an R90/6 that needs to be parted. He bought it new and put over 100,000 miles on it. Then he parked it in his barn. Then his barn was destroyed by a tornado. The bike was not swept away, but it was damaged, bent, and fractured. No reasonable person would try to restore it. Mr. farmer still will not sell the bike, to me or anyone. What do you think will ultimately happen to it? Maybe then I can hook it for $100 at the auction
I predict that within the next 10 years, every AIRHEAD will be beyond original ownership. That's when prices will zoom up to the level that an Indian Chief or a Harley Knuckled Head brings today.
I respect Nathan for saving his 900. It's still an un-restored, 100,000 mile bike. In the next 50K, the con rod bearings will be showing layers, the crank journals will be out-of-round, the timing chain will be shot, the cylinders and pistons will be way out of spec.
I admire what Nathan has done here. He and I have spoken about these things.
Now, let me tell you the story of another 900.
A farmer who lives 4 miles east of me has an R90/6 that needs to be parted. He bought it new and put over 100,000 miles on it. Then he parked it in his barn. Then his barn was destroyed by a tornado. The bike was not swept away, but it was damaged, bent, and fractured. No reasonable person would try to restore it. Mr. farmer still will not sell the bike, to me or anyone. What do you think will ultimately happen to it? Maybe then I can hook it for $100 at the auction
I predict that within the next 10 years, every AIRHEAD will be beyond original ownership. That's when prices will zoom up to the level that an Indian Chief or a Harley Knuckled Head brings today.
I respect Nathan for saving his 900. It's still an un-restored, 100,000 mile bike. In the next 50K, the con rod bearings will be showing layers, the crank journals will be out-of-round, the timing chain will be shot, the cylinders and pistons will be way out of spec.
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S
sumran
Guest
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