orforester
Member
Gas tank, try vinegar and some water with nuts and bolts, shaken, not stirred, sit for a couple of days, turned often. Buddy did it with KLR tank that was outside for years.
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I may try the Evaporust route. First things first I need to get a gas cap since Iv'e destroyed the other one getting it out.
If the Evaporust product ends up working what would be used as a sealant after the fact?
Also, I attached some pictures of the tank filler area after some initial cleanup. Do they look alright?
Brian
Hello all,
Second, I had had to do something about elevating the bike to make it easier to work on. The best (cheapest) I could find was at Harbor Freight. $500.00. I just couldn't bring myself to spend that money on it when I could use the $500 towards bike related parts so I built my own stand. For $65.00 bucks. See attached picture. It brings the bike up off the floor 22" which is working out pretty.
Hello all,
Happy new year first of all. Hope everyone made it through the holidays OK. It was slow going at home for a bit but I'm ready to get back at it.
There were a few things I need to address in the barn/shop.
First, it cold in that barn/shop this time of year! I live in Massachusetts. I installed heat to help take the edge off when I'm out there. It's not going to bring temps out there too high but it will allow me to work comfortable enough with outside temps down around 20 degress. Below that and hibernation starts to set in.
Second, I had had to do something about elavating the bike to make it easier to work on. The best (cheapest) I could find was at Harbor Freight. $500.00. I just couldn't bring myself to spend that money on it when I could use the $500 towards bike related parts so I built my own stand. For $65.00 bucks. See attached picture. It brings the bike up off the floor 22" which is working out pretty.
Now a staus update.
I'm still removing and cleaning parts as I go. You can see where I'm at so for in some of the pictures I've attached. I've been reading up on the bike's electrial system before I start on wiring harnesses etc. It's my belief that the issue why bike was parked so long ago was electrical in nature.
Right now I'm about remove the rear wheel and drive. Go through that part of the bike.
Question for the group: The rims are pretty filthy. Does anyone have an idea on how to restore them to look new?
I think after I address the rims and install some new rubber on them I can put the rear of the bike back together. I'm not expecting an issues with the drive shaft etc. It all looks pretty good.
Other things to address. Not necessarilly in this order i have them listed.
Next up will be all electrical in nature. Make sure I have no issues with any harness or sub harnesses, the electronic ignition etc.
Then carborators. They will definately have to be rebuilt, new fuel lines and air box addressed.
Then handle bar control assemblies have to redone. Taken apart possibly painted and rebuilt.
I will need to replace throttle and choke cables...
I'm saving the engine for last. The bike only had 29k miles on and the engine oil looks just fine so I don't intend to break it donw at all.. I do not intI really, really, really hope that's the case...
I do plan on removing the heads and after then rebuilt...professionally. Not my bag. I just think that having the bike boken down this fat and not rebuild the heads doesn't make sense.
There was something I read somewhere about an issue these bikes may have had called valve recession? Can anyone enlighten me about that?
Another question: Does anyone know a good shop for this kind of work in Massachusetts?
Obviously this all depends on Mother Nature and just how many days I can time in on the bike and will certainly run into the spring and summer.
Maybe have the bike on the raod by early fall? We'll see.
Brian
Valve recession is an issue in 1983 and 1984 BMWs. The valve seats are too soft, so eventually the valves wind up shaped like tulips.
Sorry this is kind of a side note. I've thought about doing something like that. How much of a ramp do you use to get the bike up on the table?
You need to be a Yankee Beemer and you'll get some help from the local enthusiasts.
Valve recession is an issue in 1983 and 1984 BMWs. The valve seats are too soft, so eventually the valves wind up shaped like tulips. It's usually exhaust valves that have an issue. If you pull the valve cover off and the exhaust adjustment screw is running out of adjustment, you've got valve recession. The adjusters should be about the same distance out, so if the exhausts are WAY out there, you're WELL down the road to getting the heads reworked.
You have a couple opportunities: Max BMW does great work on these old bikes, you could send it down to Bob's BMW or you could reach out to Bud Provin up in VT and get him to do them. ProTip: Get the big valves while you're in there and you'll love the mid range roll on.
For the wheels, and any metal bits, for that matter, vapor blasting is what you want. It won't etch the metal and it'll remove the dirt and leave it looking factory fresh. I'm not sure who does that in Mass, but that'd be my recommendation.
Thanks for the info Dave!
I plan to join the Yankee Beamers group. I'll do that sooner rthan later!
I also see if Bud Provin is still doing work on the heads.
I'm working on getting an '83 RS into my stable as well. This one has not been ridden in 7 or 8 years so it too will need some love to get it back on the road. I'll talk about it when I actually get it if the deal goes through.
Pretty sure mine does not have heated grips sadly.