1983 R100 RS Project

[brifog196]

Heated grips could be a challenge. Run a vest/jacket, grips and a headlight and that charging system is at or near capacity, especially around town.

Your grips will be kind of grayish and there’d be a rocker switch in the cockpit somewhere if you have them. You might still be able to retrofit them, but you’ll need the drilled and notched bars. You can modify the bars, but it’s tidier with the factory bars.

I'm inclined not to put them back. I usually don't ride that far into the Fall here in NE to use them. I also have a par of leather cold weather riding gloves that work just fine when I'm out in cold weather.
I did not see any kind of switch on the console anywhere that was for the grips. I just there was a wire that was loose. Didn't know what it went to until recently.
Besides, I already bought the OEM replacement grips.

 

[brifog196]

Hello all,
Figured I would update my thread here. Have not done that since July.
The bike is coming along. I had hoped to have it running by Labor Day but sadly that isn't the case.
I have made progress though. I have attached a picture of where the bike stands today.
Let's see if I can list some of the updates since my last post.
Rim cleaned and new tire installed. Like in the back I removed the bearings, inspected the race (which were in great shape) cleaned and repacked the bearings and installed new dust seals.
Mounted front calipers. New soft brake lines.
Unfortunately I could not reuse the front brake master cylinder and had to purchase a new one. (Ouch $$$!) So essentially with exception of the fixed brake lines everything else has been replaced. Front and back.
Drained and replaced the fork oil. I went with 10wt. We'll see...
Carborators installed.
New choke and throttle cables.
I removed the pulse air system from the bike when the airbox went back in. I read enough articles online from varoius people that said it wasn't necessary. And it was cumbersome and ugly too... I bought a conversion kit from a company called Rubber Chicken for about $40.
Valves have been adjusted. They need it. They weren't close.
All the wiring harnesses have been reconnected.
I'm currently working on trying to salvaging the gas tank. I hope to get the rust out and reseal it.
Once I get the tank addressed I believe I will be at a point where I can try to start the bike. that's providing there are no "Gotchas" with the electrical/ignition system.
I would like to think that I'm less than a month away from that.
Remember way back in one of my earliier posts I mentioned that the bike has not run in 26 years and that I wasn't sure or know why the former owner parked it.
Stay tuned!
Brian

 

[HSVPhil]

Making Biggly Progress, Brian!

Hope you’re gonna have a whiz-bang new-2-U Rallye Sport M/C and that it'll put a biggly smile on your kisser when out on some backroads!

Sláinte! HSV-Phil & HSV-Karen

 

[langoptc]

Looking good sir!

 

[brifog196]

Hello all,
Checking in.
Finished last night and off the operating table!
Had a few electrical gremlins to iron out. Nothing serious thankfully. Bike started up relatively easy the first time.
I have to think that the previous owner parked the bike because it was running poorly and not that it wasn't running at all.
Valves were definately out of adjustment for one thing.
I would like to say that I hope I don't have to take that fairing off anytime soon! Maybe it will be easier now that I know all of the pitfalls... NOT!
Going for it's first road test in 26 years today.
Wish me luck!
Regards,
Brian

 

[Visian]

I would like to say that I hope I don't have to take that fairing off anytime soon! Maybe it will be easier now that I know all of the pitfalls... NOT!

The fairing with 1 million screws!

 

[gregfeeler]

Congratulations!! That "project done!" feeling is priceless!

 

[brifog196]

Hello all,
Well the test drive never took place. In fact I never made it out of the barn.
Tried to put the bike in 1st and it just lurched ahead and stalled. Tried again, same problem.
In talking to the shop that rebuilt the carbs, they said that because the bike had been stitting for so long its possible that the clutch has stuck to the flywheel. Twenty six years is a long time to just sit...
I'm inclined to agree with them :-(
So, it's back up on the operating table. I'm going to pull the transmission and take a look at things. Maybe replace the clutch parts if necessary (I'm in there already...).
All things considered, this is more labor intensive than anything else I have read. But, if anyone out there on this thread has removed the transmission on these bikes I sure would like to hear from them regarding and potential pitfalls.
Starting the breakdown today. I want to have this situation corrected ASAP while there is still nice weather here in New England.
Stay tuned!
Regards,
Brian

 

[Omega Man]

You should be able to break it free. Standard procedures would be as you tried- in gear, clutch in, try to start, hang on. Or you can have someone help you move the bike back and forth- with the clutch in.
Usually either method will work.

OM

 

[20774]

This comes up from time to time. Check out this thread, to go along with what OM said:

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?93013-Stuck-Clutch

 

[skibum69]

Good to hear it's coming along. I know master cylinder woes, twice now I have had the front brakes seizing because the return port was clogged. I just did another empty and clean and was able to clear the blockage with a thin wire and a little canned air. Good luck with the clutch, you should have tried the roll test mentioned before a full breakdown. Super happy to have mine on the road.

 

[brifog196]

GM all
And what a lovely morning it is!
I was able to unstick the clutch yesterday using the methods in Snowbum's article. Actually method #2 was the one that worked. The guy is a savior!
Method 2 has you warm up the bike. Get out on the street and start the bike in 1st gear and move dow the street. staying 1st gear get up a bit of speed, pull clutch lever in and hit the brakes. I did this for about a half mile and low and behold I had a working clutch!
Went for a 30 mile test ride and all went well. Nothing leaking or failing off the bike.
Still have to finish syncing the carbs.
It's a different ride from my 2000 Triumph Trophy 1200.
More test miles today!
Regards,

Brian

 

[skibum69]

Great news Brian! Do you have the tools to sync the carbs? I ended up with a brand new Harmonizer and it was a pretty simple job.

 

[brifog196]

Great news Brian! Do you have the tools to sync the carbs? I ended up with a brand new Harmonizer and it was a pretty simple job.

I have the spark plugs extenders for doing the shorting out method. Some say that is the best way to sync the carbs? I don't know.
How did the Harmonizer work for you?

 

[pglaves]

I have the spark plugs extenders for doing the shorting out method. Some say that is the best way to sync the carbs?

Some say rowing a boat is the best way to get from Spain to the Americas.

 

[20774]

Some say rowing a boat is the best way to get from Spain to the Americas.

So how best should one cross the Atlantic? Also, any thoughts on synching carbs?

 

[pglaves]

So how best should one cross the Atlantic? Also, any thoughts on synching carbs?

There are several good vacuum based devices to use to synch carbs and throttle bodies. The Harmonizer has a good reputation. The Twin-Max is a little futzy but provides good results. Carbtune is another possibility. My favorite is a set of Carb Stix but the mercury in the tubes poses some environmental health hazards. Even a home-made, water filled manometer tube works if you have a big enough wall.

The shorting method was designed when vacuum takeoffs were not installed on carburetors and points drove coils directly. It is cruder and more prone to interpretation and error than modern methods. And for any post-1981 Airhead with electronic ignition any mistep can damage or destroy the ignition module.

And sailing across the Atlantic certainly beats rowing. Not to mention the possibility of actually using a powered boat or cruise ship.

 

[20774]

Nice summary!

 

[kbasa]

Some say rowing a boat is the best way to get from Spain to the Americas.

My dad, back in the 70s: "Son, some people think a wringer washer on the front porch is the best way to do laundry" when we were discussing the evolution of technology and I was contemplating a major in com sci.

I still have an old set of MotionPro Mercury gauges, which I am extraordinarily careful with. For the /2, shorting method is pretty much it. For my '84 airhead, it's gauges, not the shorting thing.

 

[20774]

There is another option for the /2 bikes...well, two. One is that Bing sells a kit that allows you to drill holes and insert a vacuum takeoff port. Two is these EMPI vacuum gages...remove the air horns and put these on the input side of each carb. Useful for balancing idle mix as well as initial opening of the slides. Not good for balancing the throttle cable tensions...that creates too much vacuum for these to measure.