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Tire Change Pictorial

Jim:

Another, excellent, good "how-to-atricle"! Maybe you should collect the articles for a book for us amatuers. ....And how big is your garage? You have all kinds of nice tools--that I don't have. I think you have about talked me out trying this. Thanks for the info.

--rock

Thanks,

I do not actually have a garage, just a 15X20 workspace in an outbuilding.

I am actually in the process of creating a DVD of the 36K, which encompasses all the other services, for the oil/hex heads.

Look for it to be available around the end of March.

Jim :brow
 
wieghty issue

:thumb excelent post.
:type just for a heads up:dance , you can purchase tape a weights at any Ford dealer for cheap, :brad they carry them in their parts invintory. thought u should like to know
Mike R..
nice balancer!:thumb:buds :clap :clap
 
Good post.

My preference is following the Helge Pedersen tire changing method detailed on his 1150GS tape, since most flat tires occur on the road and not in your garage. Also, recommend using only the tools that come with the bike adding two BMW tire irons since you won't have garage tools on the road.

For a bead breaker, use the side stand with the bike on the center stand. Use a strap to secure the left fork leg to the center stand before attempting. Remove front or rear tire directly under the side stand and then carefully pull the bike towards you until the side stand brakes the bead. If tire isn't totally flat, remove valve stem first.

For lubrication, spray WD40 around the rim bead. Use only BMW tire iron since oversized tires have the potential to damage the rims. Use technic vs. brut strength.

Patch the tire with the plug and go kit. If too bad of a puncture, carry at least one spare tube (GS only) 18 inch. Will require you to cut out the valve stem. Carry a spare valve stem for when you get to a location to purchase a new tire.

For tubeless tires, set the bead with one CO2 cartridges and fill the remaining air with a sparrow electric pump. They are cheap, well made, small and have a very accurate air guage built in. If you run out of CO2 cartridges, wrap a tie down strap around the tire pulling tight to press the bead around the rim. Inflate with your electric pump. Inflate until the bead sets (may be up to 60lbs) and then reduce air pressure to desired amount for front or rear.

Practice this method first in your garage before attempting on the road. Before replacing an old tire, puncture and repair. Its best to pratice on a hot day, since the tire rubber will be soft. On a cold day, tubeless tires are much harder to remove. If you get a flat you can't plug on the road on a cold day, remove the tire quickly before the tire has a chance to cool down.

Recommend visting Helge Pedersen's website and ordering his video on all these technics. I am not associated with Helge Pedersen or have any monetary interest in this video.

http://www.globeriders.com/product_pages/products_main.shtml
 
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Beamerbalancer

Is there a pictorial somewhere to help me construct a Beamerbalancer axle substitute? I have the roller bearings and fixture to hold the wheel, but I'm still strugglin' over centering the wheels while I balance them.

Great tire changing pictorial! I've mounted tires for cars and bicycles but I'm looking forward to changing my own motorcycle tires, since they need tires 'way more often than anything else I own!

Thanks for a great tutorial...
 
41Tweak-caliper-sideways.jpg

Is the leather jacket and Rado watch your normal shop wear, or are you just dressing up for the occasion??? ;)
 
Tire bead lube question

Firstly, thanks to Jimvonbaden for creating the tutorial. I'll be attempting my first tubeless change this weekend.

I'm expecting the biggest problem to be getting the last bit of the second bead on the rim.

My worry is about bead lube. Is there no concern about soapy water allowing the tire to spin on the rim during braking or acceleration? Kenk even suggests WD40(yikes!). In addition to that, what about soapy water running around inside the tire?

Mike
 
Is the leather jacket and Rado watch your normal shop wear, or are you just dressing up for the occasion??? ;)


It was cold out!:D

But yes, that Rado is 12 years old and still looks like new despite my best efforts to mess it up. I wear it all the time.:)

Jim :brow
 
Firstly, thanks to Jimvonbaden for creating the tutorial. I'll be attempting my first tubeless change this weekend.

I'm expecting the biggest problem to be getting the last bit of the second bead on the rim.

My worry is about bead lube. Is there no concern about soapy water allowing the tire to spin on the rim during braking or acceleration? Kenk even suggests WD40(yikes!). In addition to that, what about soapy water running around inside the tire?

Mike

Hi Mike,

I used Dawn and water for dozens of tires, though I prefer RU Glyde tire lube.

None of them leave a residue that can/will cause any slipping of a properly inflated and seated tire.

Never used WD-40, though since it is a Water Dispesant, I would suapect no adverse results as well.

Good luck on your tire change!

Jim :brow
 
I use the Harbor Freight tool as shown in the pix but also like the Mojo Bar as it really works well and protects the rims with no need to wrap with leather. C clamps are a good idea but simple hand pressure usually works for me while working around the rim with the mojo.
 
Got new back tire!

Hi Jim:

Took me about half the morning and my back is sore!

Was it easy - Nope.

Did your tutorial help. Yes definitely.

Thanks for the tips and encouragement. I balanced it with DynaBeads and they seem to work but I'm thinking I may not notice if they didn't work unless it was way out.

Mike
 
It was cold out!:D

But yes, that Rado is 12 years old and still looks like new despite my best efforts to mess it up. I wear it all the time.:)

Jim :brow


Ah... they say the ceramic is un-scratchable but I still leave mine inside because I'd find a way to ruin it ;)
 
I removed and reinstalled my front wheel to have a new tire put on, it seemed everything went according to the instructions, however my front wheel is not rolling freely. It appears there is a small amount of break pressure. I torqued the brake caliper bolts to about 22 lb/ft. I also road around the block a few times and checked again, the brakes work fine but when I got back, put the bike back on the bike stand, I found the wheel still under some pressure from the brakes. Any suggestions?

thanks
 
I removed and reinstalled my front wheel to have a new tire put on, it seemed everything went according to the instructions, however my front wheel is not rolling freely. It appears there is a small amount of break pressure. I torqued the brake caliper bolts to about 22 lb/ft. I also road around the block a few times and checked again, the brakes work fine but when I got back, put the bike back on the bike stand, I found the wheel still under some pressure from the brakes. Any suggestions?

thanks


"some" or a "a lot of" drag?? some is perfectly normal, the wheel won't freewheel round and round normally.
 
What tools are mandatory for tire change?

Jim

Thanks for the great tips and tutorial!! It looks very similar to changing bicycle tires?

I'm wondering what tools are mandatory to do this job?

Specifically do you have to have the tire change machine? Seems like the tire change machine is used to break the bead and that's it?

Thanks again!

D
 
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