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Steve offers a key post, along with Lee's directly above: when was the last time you did a valve adjustment? If I have problems with bad starting or dying at idle, it's usually remedied with an adjustment of the valves as first step.Kurt asks the big questions. I will ask you about maintenance, when were the valves set, points if you have them, timing (regardless of points)?
How many miles on the carbs? Has the bike been used a lot or has it sat a lot, just out of storage?
Valves have to be adjusted properly first. Points if you have them have to be in good shape and adjusted. These two things need to be addressee before carb adjustments. St.
Which explains why whenever we travel I have a bottle of IsoHeet along with us.Bad gas will do a job all the time. Even fresh gas from a pump can be bad, I got a big shot of water in my RS one time filling up on a trip at a small town station. Boy that caused a lot of cursing each time the bike died and I had to drain the float bowls. St.
Steve, I can't quantify that. But a bottle is intended to be able to work in up to 16 gallons in a car tank. So far it has worked fine in our much smaller motorcycle fuel tanks. I am sure though that a huge dose of water would overpower even a full bottle of treatment. I would note that in most motorcycle tanks water can build up over time and not be quickly picked up by fuel pumps or petcock inlets. Thus rusted or corroded fuel tank seams even in bikes in frequent use. I typically will add a couple of ounces of Isoheet with a couple of ounces of Techron fuel system cleaner every couple of months and/or as part of a 6000 miles service. Years ago I had to clean up and seal up a corroded seam on the bottom left of a K75 fuel tank caused by the long term settlement and retention of water in the tank. Since then I have routinely tried to prevent that from being needed again.I am curious Paul as to how much water Isoheet would absorb out of a tank of gas? In my case I got quite a shot it took hours to work it out. St.