Suspected rocker chatter on start up

[flhfxd]

Will get it for a very brief moment right after the engine fires up - just until the oil pressure builds, then its gone. No further recurrence until next engine start. I am new to the brand and I realize there's lotsa idiosyncrasies to discover. Does this indicate a rocker adjustment is imminent? Or is it just normal ops? 2000 R11RT
Thx Flhfxd

 

[pglaves]

Will get it for a very brief moment right after the engine fires up - just until the oil pressure builds, then its gone. No further recurrence until next engine start. I am new to the brand and I realize there's lotsa idiosyncrasies to discover. Does this indicate a rocker adjustment is imminent? Or is it just normal ops? 2000 R11RT
Thx Flhfxd

You are hearing the cam chain until the hydraulic tensioner is recharged with oil (pressure).

 

[henzilla]

Check if left side tensioner was upgraded

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...ise-at-start-up&highlight=cam+chain+tensioner

 

[Omega Man]

I get a little out of the F800GS as well........More the longer it sits. And..........that's running BMW earl.
OM

 

[BC1100S]

Will get it for a very brief moment right after the engine fires up - just until the oil pressure builds, then its gone. No further recurrence until next engine start. I am new to the brand and I realize there's lotsa idiosyncrasies to discover. Does this indicate a rocker adjustment is imminent? Or is it just normal ops? 2000 R11RT
Thx Flhfxd

"They all do that."

See post #7 in Henzilla's link. That'll fix you right up.

 

[cycleman2]

Use the upgraded cam chain tensioner on the left side of the engine. This will make the engine much quieter at startup. The right side will still rattle a bit at startup, but nothing like the left side.

You can tell if the upgraded cam chain tensioner has been installed by looking at the bolt head size, the tensioner is located in behind the left throttle body and below the left engine mount. Smaller head size of bolt ( 15 ) indicates new style and larger (17 ) indicates old style.

Once the bike is warmed up if you are still getting a rattle sounding noise it is likely the throttle plates, as the shaft wears over time. You can test for this by just putting light finger pressure on the throttle cable at each throttle body. If the noise goes away then you've found the location of your noise. Do a search lots of info on these two topics.

 

[rxcrider]

http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/chain.html

 

[happy wanderer]

"They all do that."

See post #7 in Henzilla's link. That'll fix you right up.

Oh yeah, that post. Picture says it all on that one! Another thing to note is you can tell if you have the old one or the new one without having to remove it. The old tensioner requires a 17mm wrench to remove and the new one is 15mm. So you can tell right quick and if you do have the old one (sounds like you do) change it out because that noise you are hearing is all about premature wear due to lack of oil in the plunger at startup time. The new one doesn't let the oil leak out so it's ready when you start the bike. It's an easy fix.

 

[flhfxd]

Oh yeah, that post. Picture says it all on that one! Another thing to note is you can tell if you have the old one or the new one without having to remove it. The old tensioner requires a 17mm wrench to remove and the new one is 15mm. So you can tell right quick and if you do have the old one (sounds like you do) change it out because that noise you are hearing is all about premature wear due to lack of oil in the plunger at startup time. The new one doesn't let the oil leak out so it's ready when you start the bike. It's an easy fix.

Cool. Great info. Thx. The dude I bought this bike from just fuelled it up and rode it. He didn't / doesn't have much of a clue other than to change oil a lot. Which is great, but not enough. But with only 19'000 miles I figure I'm just in time to get all this stuff done.

 

[gsaddict]

As below, note the smaller hex (15mm) on the updated tensioner on the bottom.
Parts are not interchangable between units.

 

[lkchris]

Just an FYI ... I've put the second upgrade tensioner in my R1100S, as the first was frozen sold.

 

[gsaddict]

Just an FYI ... I've put the second upgrade tensioner in my R1100S, as the first was frozen sold.

If I read correctly you say the first upgrade tensioner was frozen solid?

The reason is it must be bled down if it has been active. There is a little ball (down the piston hole) in that must be depressed while pushing the piston in at the same time.
Repeat several times to get the oil out. Then it can be re-installed and will pump up first startup.

The whole idea of the new style tensioner is that it does not bleed down and take pressure off the chain guide.

 

[etinch]

I have an '03 CLC that clatters at start up, then again at idle when warm. It's not particularly loud at idle, the sound just appears after a few seconds of idling when warm. It sounds like it's coming from the left side when seated on the bike but from the front it sounds like both sides. I'm going to start with a new tensioner since that's almost certainly the cause at start up, but will it affect the bike when warm?

Also, I have a '94 RS that has no clatter at all, ever. Did BMW change the design sometime after '94?

Thanks

 

[happy wanderer]

Also, I have a '94 RS that has no clatter at all, ever. Did BMW change the design sometime after '94?

Thanks

The R1200 motor came with the new style tensioner but no idea when other models were fitted with the new parts. Again, the easiest way to tell what you have is the bolt size on the top of the tensioner. This should take you two minutes to figure out with a 15mm wrench. If it fits you have the new one if it is too small you have the old one.

 

[rocketmanli]

Etinch,
The CLC should have a double-walled header which serves to keep the outer header cool, and for the most part, avoids the discoloration experienced by certain single walled header bikes. Sometimes the clatter that sounds like a cam chain tensioner can also be the 2 walls which have separated. Suggest you verify that as well. It could be a clatter or a light clanging sound. This can also be temperature dependent as things heat up and expand, then cool off and contract.

See this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrmHoKNvFZg
or this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmvBoVRy_4s

 

[BC1100S]

It's not particularly loud at idle, the sound just appears after a few seconds of idling when warm.

Before you invest in a tensioner, do two things:

1. Check to make sure your left side tensioner hasn't already been upgraded, and

2. Check the end play in your rocker arm assemblies. From your description above (and my personal experience with said noise), my guess is this is the source of your problem.

 

[etinch]

Thanks to all for the for the quick answers.

Happy Wanderer, my tensioner on the CLC has a 17 mm head so it's one of the old ones.

Rocketmanli, I smacked my headers a bit with a rubber mallet like in the video and didn't hear anything loose, but this is good to know. I had no idea these were double wall headers.

BC1100S, this sounds like a possible cause, what's the fix? Or do I have to fix it? I don't mind the small amount of clatter as long as it doesn't mean something is going bad. BTW - valve clearance is good and I'm using 20/50 conventional at the moment.

 

[gsaddict]

Thanks to all for the for the quick answers.

Happy Wanderer, my tensioner on the CLC has a 17 mm head so it's one of the old ones.

Rocketmanli, I smacked my headers a bit with a rubber mallet like in the video and didn't hear anything loose, but this is good to know. I had no idea these were double wall headers.

BC1100S, this sounds like a possible cause, what's the fix? Or do I have to fix it? I don't mind the small amount of clatter as long as it doesn't mean something is going bad. BTW - valve clearance is good and I'm using 20/50 conventional at the moment.

Broken upper chain guides on the left have been blamed on the old style tensioners.
I would update on any oilhead I own.

 

[BC1100S]

BC1100S, this sounds like a possible cause, what's the fix? Or do I have to fix it? I don't mind the small amount of clatter as long as it doesn't mean something is going bad. BTW - valve clearance is good and I'm using 20/50 conventional at the moment.

The end play clearance can be adjusted. The procedure is in the shop manual. And, as GSAddict has said, better get that new style tensioner. Its really simple to install.

 

[etinch]

Thanks again for the quick answers, I'll be ordering a new tensioner on Tuesday morning. And a swingarm pivot bearing replacement for the RS, but that's another thread.