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Stuck front axle on R75/5

9842

Member
Hi
Want to install new rubber on 1973 r75/5. loosened big nut, loosened allen bolt on clamp side. Screw driver through hole and spin/rotate but axle won't pull out. I used a soft blow hammer on nut side as I spun the axle and it moved. I continued to rotate and pull axle and nothing. Will spin but won't pull out. I chickened out and put it all back together and looking for answers. I don't want to force the axle out if I don't have to. Any advice out there?
Thanks
Brian
 
Weird. Maybe some corrosion has built up. Could you provide close up pictures of the left and right sides to show the axle, nut, spacers, etc.?
 
The stanchions may not be straight and were last reassembled in a state that caused the technician (?) to have to pound the axle in to reassemble.
If it were me, I would rotate the tubes and lower legs until you are able to easily slide the axel in.

Bent fork tubes that aren't assembled to accomodate the bends are what you may have encountered.
 
I think Kurt is on track suspecting corrosion, but I’d add a possible suspect is the bearing inner races corroded to the axle. That might require application of a “swing press” to the axle, with the opposite fork leg protected and braced to provide a firm stop to work against.

A now-closed independent shop in SLC had a slash bike come in reporting poor fuel mileage and a squeal from the front end. Bearings, races, and axle had become one and the axle was spinning in the fork tubes. A sawzall was used for disassembly…

Best,
DeVern
 
I believe that if a pinch bolt were too tight the axle would not rotate. Since it does I would look elsewhere for the cause.

But if it was just barely loose, a burr or something on the axle might not clear one of the pinch bolts.
 
Stuck axle

But if it was just barely loose, a burr or something on the axle might not clear one of the pinch bolts.

Hi
Im thinking the inner race is stuck to the axle on the nut side. I wanted to check with you guys before I use some muscle to remove axle. Funny, I have been doing a lot of bragging lately about how simple airheads are and how easy it is to maintain them yourself. Problem is this airhead is 50 years old and problems like corrosion pop up. I have had this axle and wheel off for brake service 5 years ago and it was easy going, very routine. I will give it an other attempt this week. What could go wrong!!!. If I notice the bearings are dry and rusty I will put it back together and bring it to the shop. Will keep you posted. My biggest fear is bending or warping something and messing up the handling. I remember reading about tank slappers, and bad handling after front end work so I'm a little nervous.
BTW, only one pinch bolt, and I have serviced this bike many times pulling the axles and cleaning brakes so don't think fork tubes are out of line.
Thanks
Brian
 
Sometimes on sensitive parts or parts that I don't know if they are just stuck or I missed something, I will put a puller or some rig that will keep the part under tension while I am waiting for penetrating oil to work it's way in.

OM
 
You might try some heat before trying to press/muscle things apart. A heat gun or careful use of a propane torch.
 
bent axle

Everything mentioned above. Plus, the axle could be bent. Once upon a time the bent axle was installed by force. Now it will take heat, penetrating oil, and FORCE to remove. Beat the S.O.B. mercilessly and get that axle OUT. Then you'll have to send your wheel to Woody's for new bearings; it's well worth the cost because the modern bearings are far superior.

p.s. I use both air and electric impact hammers "beat" out stuck axles, bolts, etc. The "jackhammer" effect really seems to drive out stuck components versus hammer blows.
 
I believe that if a pinch bolt were too tight the axle would not rotate. Since it does I would look elsewhere for the cause.

It may be a lot of work, but does it make sense to drop the forks/legs and try to get one side off (and maybe the wheel) to see where the binding is?
 
Axle is out

It may be a lot of work, but does it make sense to drop the forks/legs and try to get one side off (and maybe the wheel) to see where the binding is?

Hi
Thanks for the advice everyone. As I get older I become more careful. This morning I had an extra cup a Joe. Grabbed a BFH and a drift pin and a few light taps and axle popped right out. Wondering why it was stuck I looked around. I noticed nothing was dry or rusty. I put axle in backwards from nut side and it is a little off center when pushed towards pinch bolt side, maybe a 1/16th off center. Should be ok when all put back and torqued down.
Thanks again
Brian
 
Was this misalignment up/ down or side to side? When reassembling. Loosen up your fender mounts and fork brace. Then re insert your axle to see if there is any stiction. If there still is, carefully measure fork leg length to make sure they are equally extending down ftom the fork yoke. Without removing the lower fork legs, you can compare the amount of fork tube visible from the top plate and the yoke. If no stiction, clean and lube your wheel bearings, remount the wheel, torque the axle and pinch bolt and then add the fender mount and fork brace. Good luck and see ya’ back on the road soon.
 
Was this misalignment up/ down or side to side? When reassembling. Loosen up your fender mounts and fork brace. Then re insert your axle to see if there is any stiction. If there still is, carefully measure fork leg length to make sure they are equally extending down ftom the fork yoke.

Yup, that's what happened to mine.
 
Stuck axle report

Yup, that's what happened to mine.

Hi
Finished installing tires, but not an easy task. Got front tire off the bike and up on the bench. Tried using spoons from kit and soon realized they were not the tool for the job. Ordered new longer spoons and with a little dish soap got the new tire and tube on the rim. As I was filling the tire with air it was coming out just as fast. NOOOOO!!! Yup, pinched the tube. After laughing and shaking my head I thought "AM I losing my skill or what". And what should I do now? I had to prop up bike with blocks and secure center stand. Removed rear wheel very easily and took both wheels and tires to the shop. My decision to finally have the shop mount the tires was justified by having him balance and check bearings. He mentioned the new tires are not as easy to mount as the old continentals. That made me feel a little better at my failed attempt. I got wheels back home and spent hours cleaning them. Used steel wool on spokes and got all the corrosion off. And I have a small tube of "Rub & Buff" and I applied it to each spoke. I'ts like a wax with paint mixed in and it filled in the little pits on spokes. Spokes look like new. Polished rims with S1000, they look like chrome. Did struggle with the front axle again but got both wheels back on and everything buttoned up. This 50 year old bike is ready for the national. Thanks for all the replys. When a simple job goes south it's nice to know you guys are out there.
Brian
 
He mentioned the new tires are not as easy to mount as the old continentals.

So true. The current tube-less tires have a very stiff bead since they're designed to hold all the air in with contact on the rim. Older tube-type tires didn't have such a stiff bead since the tube inside kept the air in. Pretty difficult to find tube-type tires if at all. Unless you have a tire changing setup at home, probably best to have a shop change the rubber for you.
 
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