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R65 Electrical Challenges

kentuvman

kentuvman

New member
I'm thinking my R65LS is Haunted. My BMW buddy, a retired engineer and I spent several hours today trying to troubleshoot. All we get is a "click" from the headlight relay (at least that's what I think it is). What's clicking is the last black box looking rearwards opposite of the gray box (where the two are shown in tandem). No lights, no instrument lights, no horn, no starter. Just a click when we turn the switch. That's it.

The Clymer book has a wiring diagram but we're wondering if any of you have one that might show more detail? I've attached a picture of the different relays & boxes that are electrical. If you can help me identify what does what, that should be helpful.
 

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Might want to open the headlight bucket and check your fuses. There are a pair (I think this is true on the R65 bikes too) located on the circuit board. Its in the deepest part of the headlight bucket, just for fun. I moved both of my fuses out of the bucket and into panel fuse holders.

Also, check out a Haynes manual for wiring diagrams. I've found them more useful than Clymer's (still my fav for everything else).

Hope this helps. :thumb
 
The headlight relay will have 3 wires, starter - 5 wires, and turn signal - 4 wires.

Check the bottom of the all the relays to see if one of the wires has wiggled out.

Also check the main ground wire that attaches to the frame.

Turn the switch and get nothing...headlight is not on a fuse. turn signals, horn, stoplight are all on fuses.

When ALL of them are out, that means either ignition switch, right side handlebar cluster...or most likely a bad ground. Also check all the connections under the tank too.

Check the battery first but even with a low charge battery, you should be able to get a headlight.
 
Thanks all for your suggestions

Battery is new and charged

Fuses were tested and work

As far as I can tell there are no fuses deep in headlight bucket unless housed in the thick black wiring harness that goes thru the headlight bucket hole.

Will check wires beneath relays.

Will check red wire coming off starter.

Gotta be something loose ????
 
At this point, I'd start with the simple: disconnect the ground to the battery, locate the starter relay, carefully pry it out of its base with a flat screwdriver, and reinsert it. Do this two or three times. Re-connect battery and test the starter. If all is well, disconnect battery, unplug the starter relay (again) and give both male and female connections a good cleaning. Corrosion on the starter relay. End.

Here's a pic of 78-80

http://www.pbase.com/tomfarr/image/124474060/large

And here's 81-84

http://www.pbase.com/tomfarr/image/90141401/original.jpg
 
kentuvman said:
battery is putting out 13.5v
Click to expand...

Huh? A battery, without engine running, is going to measure 12.5 to 12.7v. A measurement of 13.5v sounds like the output from the alternator with engine running. Is that what you mean?

If the battery starts the bike with no problems, then I'd consider that a pretty good load test and the battery is likely good. And 13.5v across the battery terminals with the engine revving to say 3K RPM shows that the charging system is working fine.
 
kentuvman said:
As far as I can tell there are no fuses deep in headlight bucket unless housed in the thick black wiring harness that goes thru the headlight bucket hole.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I misled you about the fuses. The R65 is a slightly different beast and I thank Bill Burke for pointing that out. For whatever its worth, my R65 project bike is buried deep in the back of a storage container. Mea culpa.
 
No problem or worries - we're all here to help each other. The forum is a coveted benefit of being a MOA member. Never before have I seen such awesome service to other members as I have here.
 
Making Some Progress

Okay - I removed all (3) relays and sanded the contact poles and there was a lot of corrosion. I removed cap off of starter relay and everything inside looks brand new - no corrosion - same for others - headlight & turn signal.

Put them back and still only getting click from the turn signal relay.

Removed solenoid & starter wires off starter and used Dremel wire wheel to clean up connection.

Next, removed fuse harness on frame spine and did same process on the fuse contact poles. With power, put my voltmeter and set it to "beep" to see if the circuit is complete. On the gray wires, I got a beep. On the side with the green wires, no beep. Checked my battery and voltage is down to 6.5 volts so decided to put back on the charger and try again tomorrow.

Will re-charge my batteries too!

I haven't gotten into the handlebar shutoff switch yet - is there anyway to bypass this circuit - I don't think simply unplugging it will do it.

If there's anything else to try, I'm open to suggestions. Maybe a new wiring harness? It's gotta be something simple. I'm cleaning all the electrical contacts during this restoration process.
 
kentuvman said:
I haven't gotten into the handlebar shutoff switch yet - is there anyway to bypass this circuit - I don't think simply unplugging it will do it.
Click to expand...

Years ago, I fried my kill switch...I mistakenly grounded one of the terminals on the coil when I was installing the Dyna III connectors. After tracing things down, I found that the handlebar switch wasn't letting the bike work. I found that I couldn't repair the switch...plus the small ball inside disappeared in my garage!

I went to RatShack and got a suitable push-button, latching switch. I found the wires that were going in and out of the switch and wired in the replacement switch. I carefully routed the new switch to be somewhat hidden under the handlebar. It's been that way for many, many years.

I don't use the kill switch, so it's just there...in case I do need it.
 
Keep going with what you're doing...get to know the bike. If you have that much corrosion, you'll eventually find the issue. Pretty simple design. Try spraying some electrical contact cleaner in the handle bar switch..both of them. Same for the 3 big plastic plugs under the tank.

Don't forget the wires on the back of the ignition switch.

And just for grins, try bumping the bike about a foot. Ignition off and bike in first gear..then try starting. Every once in a blue moon, the starter has a spot where it won't make a full electical circuit...more common in K bikes.
 
With your battery run down, I'd try a jump from a known good battery. You're probably closer than you think.
 
ChiTech Electric Manual

Has anyone bought this book and found it to be useful? I ran across it on Snowbums site: It's $30

The CHITECH Electric Manual
1955-1990 R-Models

The Electric Manual is actually a textbook-style educational manual rather than a service/repair manual. CHITECH believes the main reason so many riders have a hard time solving electrical problems is that they don't understand how the circuits work. This manual attempts to solve that problem by providing simple explanations in layman's terms.
Fourteen chapters, each covering the operations of a different BMW circuit, are understandable with only a basic knowledge of electricity. Those needing a refresher on the basics may find their need satisfied by reading the Glossary, which was written like an "introduction to electricity".
The manual contains 21 fold-out wiring diagrams covering BMW models from 1955 to 1990, from the R26 to the R100. The main chapters concentrate on the theory of operation, and the appendices contain information more specific to servicing. Three of these appendices are devoted to troubleshooting procedures for what most owners find to be the most difficult circuit of all, the charging system.
 
I have it...to add to my collection of manuals. I read it cover to cover (including the tune up manual they also sell) just to glean more information. I forget I have it when looking for answers. It is pretty detailed and worth the small change it costs. I should pay more attention to it.
 
kentuvman said:
Has anyone bought this book and found it to be useful? I ran across it on Snowbums site: It's $30

The CHITECH Electric Manual
1955-1990 R-Models

The Electric Manual is actually a textbook-style educational manual rather than a service/repair manual. CHITECH believes the main reason so many riders have a hard time solving electrical problems is that they don't understand how the circuits work. This manual attempts to solve that problem by providing simple explanations in layman's terms.....<snip>....
Click to expand...

Even though the OP wrote this, it should probably be in its own thread so others can search succinctly for it (and for just R65 electrical problems on this thread).

I've heard its a good read but haven't seen it. Also Rick Jones sells his revered handbook, although I spoke with him a month or so ago and he was out of copies (arg!). Got the tee short though... :clap
 
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