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R1200 Corrosion Control! (Pictorial)

jimvonbaden

Kool Aid Dispenser!
It is not so common on the R1100/1150, but the front cover paint on the R1200, particularly the black, but also the silver, tends to flake and the metal underneath corrode. The R1200ST, formerly Tina's, is a perfect example. It has 55K miles on it, in all kinds of weather, and the front cover was very bad.

The GS and R are very exposed, and you might want to spend more time making it pretty. If you own an RT or ST, you may not even realize how bad this is on your bike under the plastic.

So, I decided it was time to clean it up, and protect the cover from permanent damage requiring replacement.

The following is a pictorial on how I did it. Some wont like that I did not use an aluminum primer, but the paint I used is designed to be used without primer.

01Before-cover-on3.jpg

As you can see, the paint was flaking, and corrosion was under the paint everywhere.


02Before-cover-on2.jpg

Another angle.


03Before-cover-off2.jpg

Here is with the belt cover removed.


04Before-cover-off.jpg

Another angle.


05Scrape-screwdriver.jpg

I initially used a small screwdriver to remove the loose paint. There was more than I thought, pretty much the whole cover.


06Scraped.jpg

You can see how much came off with just the scraping, took 5 minutes.


07Wire-wheel-drill.jpg

Because my goal was to protect the cover, not make it really perfect, I used a large wire brush on a drill to remove the more stubborn stuff.


08Rough-clean.jpg

As you can see, it did a good job, but did leave some gouging that some might find objectionable.


09Brush-cleaning.jpg

I used a Dremel with a small round wire brush and cleaned all the tight areas. I also pulled out each cover bolt one at a time and cleaned in there. Make sure you torque it properly when you put it back.

10Bolt-hole-clean2.jpg

You can see how clean it got. There was a lot of corrosion in these areas.


11Cleaned.jpg

Here I have finished cleaning, and wiped it down with paint thinner. It looks blotchy, but it is very clean.


12Taped-right.jpg

13Taped-left.jpg

Blue Painters tape to keep the over spray down. I could have painted the whole motor to make it look good, but it is 25?? out, and it is just going to get dirty again anyhow.

Make sure you take the time to cover the belt and pulleys, you don't want to get paint on them.


14Painted-Tape.jpg

Here is the after shot. I put on two light coats ten minutes apart, then one medium coat to finish. It looks pretty good!


15Paint-can.jpg

The paint I used. It is not necessary to get 500?? paint as the cover never gets that hot, but I wanted protection in the heat and stop and go traffic from the headers.


16Painted.jpg

After I pulled the tape off. I let it sit 30 minutes before pulling the tape.


17Done-close.jpg

An hour later, after cleaning the headers of rust, I reassembled the bike. The paint was dry to the touch.


18Done.jpg

Completely assembled. Hopefully it will last at least a few years. It only took a couple hours to do, and I am very happy with the results.

Jim :brow
 
I seriously considered it. I have used it on several projects, and will be using it on the saddle bags to cover the crash scratches. However I wanted to see how this paint would work. It is supposed to work well on bare metal. Not sure how bedliner paint would do, though I suspect it would be fine.

Great idea for a GS for sure!:D

Jim :brow
 
I seriously considered it. I have used it on several projects, and will be using it on the saddle bags to cover the crash scratches. However I wanted to see how this paint would work. It is supposed to work well on bare metal. Not sure how bedliner paint would do, though I suspect it would be fine.

Great idea for a GS for sure!:D

Jim :brow

After I had my K75 tank expanded to 8.5 gallons I had a welded up multi-colored tank the body shops wanted several hundred $$$ to paint, even after I prepped it pretty well. So I used truck bed liner on it and on my Harley trunk that was patched and put together by Dick Wildaur from two broken trunks. I used a gray primer and then the bed liner. It stuck fine and was impervious to fuel and chips. And it was an almost perfect finish match to 13 year old BMW Integral bags.
 
Was that corrosion salt accelerated? Or by rock pit damage to the paint? Or by aggressive alkaline cleaners?
Seems like a lot for an R12/55K or is the paint really that bad? How common do you think this is?
 
Was that corrosion salt accelerated? Or by rock pit damage to the paint? Or by aggressive alkaline cleaners?
Seems like a lot for an R12/55K or is the paint really that bad? How common do you think this is?

Mostly lots of poor weather riding, some salt, and some rock damage.

Unfortunately this is a pretty common issue, even at just 55K miles. Check out the UKGSer forum and you will see that this happens a lot there.

This bike was well maintained by me since new, but the owner did not wash it often, especially on the motor. I will be spending a lot of time getting the rest of the motor reasonably clean since it now belongs to me.

Jim :brow
 
Great job Jim. My ST only has about half that mileage but no corrosion yet. I wonder how much the heat from that crossover pipe adds to the problem. Mine has Remus headers and no crossover and I wash the area when I wash the bike. No salt down here either. Anyway....when the time comes I'm sure I'll follow your procedure.

Ride Safe
Mike
 
There is a product by ST100 that you spray on the engine and it renews the black paint on the motor. Works real good and the motor looks like new.
 
Nice job fixing an ugly problem. I have been thinking of putting a fender extender on my GS... now I am sure that I will. Once the painted finish is compromised with nicks and dings and corrosion starts it travels like wildfire underneath the paint. Salty roads just make it worse.
 
My R1200R is brand new (3 weeks and 670 miles). I live in NH, and, while I am fortunate in that the roads have been clear for most of the Winter so far, there is a ton of salt on them. I've been hosing the bike down after every ride. Not detail cleaning, but enough to get all the salt off. Looking at what happened to you, I think I'll keep doing that! And hope for the best.

I like what you did, though. Very creative.

After I dropped my Concours really hard (it fell off the 6" high edge of a crowned road onto dirt and stones) there was a lot of damage to plastic parts, especially the mirrors and hardbags. I sanded it all down with a random orbit sander using progressively finer grits. Then I painted all the black plastic with combinations of matte, semi gloss, and gloss till it all matched the original finish closely enough that you'd have to really look to see a difference. I sanded the bar ends, and hit them with gloss black, and you can't see any difference at all. I was very lucky to find a precise match of spray touch up paint at Pep Boys, and used that on the body work. Fortunately the damage there was not in areas that stand out.

I just traded that bike in. I told the dealer what had happened and what I did, and he couldn't believe it had even been down. Gave me book for it, which for the middle of the Winter is good enough for me.
 
Nice job.
I've been loooking at mine and wondering what to do with it. I have a
R1200RT with 36,000 on it and mines chiped already. I think mine might be chiped from the heat from the header pipe. When I removed the cover generator cover the paint was flaking off be hind it.

The foam piece behind the generator belt cover was gouged out in the center like something was rubbing on it......any ideas?
 
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Man... looking at what it looked like before, you'd think that had been ridden hard on some of the European roads in the winter months. Great job Jim, bet that took some work. Another option for treating bare aluminum is Alodine (ex: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/alodine1201.php). It's used extensively in the aircraft industry to pre-treat bare aluminum. In an application like this, where the piece is vertical, you can hold or tape a paper towel up to the metal and liberally slab the liquid on it with a brush. Let it sit a minute, remove and rinse with water. Instructions are on the bottle. Very easy to work with and produces great results.
 
In the marine industry on aluminum spars we'll use a mild acid wash prior to a base of zinc chromate followed by the final paint color.

Regards,

Clay Owen
Kimberton,Pa.

Reference: "The Boatowner's Guide to Corrosion" by Everett Collier
 
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...and then, there's another source of possible corrosion I never considered until yesterday. It's known as "canine electrolytic transferance". (That's where an unknown large dog comes into your garage, and launches a p*ss storm on your rims and centerstand.) Someone sent me this link for an overall corrosion preventative (credits go to H.B.C. for webBikeWorld): http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/scottoiler-fs-365/
 
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