R1100 Brake Rotor Bobbins Replacement

[ALIENHITCHHIKER]

The bobbins (aka 'roll pins') securing the brake rotors to their carriers on my 2000 R1100RT were shot - as the low speed clankety-clank noise coming from the front wheel kept reminding me.

Checking with the parts dept at my local BMW dealership I was a bit surprised to discover that BMW no longer sources replacement bobbins for my 21 year old bike. The fellow behind the parts counter wasn't even able to suggest a vendor that might have them available. So I did what any self respecting owner of an aging motorcycle that has seemingly been abandoned by its manufacturer would do - I scoured the internet.

Many thanks to 'frankenduck' who started a thread on motobrick.com way back in 2011 -- and a special thanks to 'Johhny' who mentioned that he purchased replacement bobbins from the London based firm Motobins. http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=1132.0

I checked out Motobins' website and sure enough they still have 'em. So ---I'm passing this tidbit along to any other oilers trying to keep their bike on the road (Please don't tell me I'm the only doofus who didn't already know about Motobins). All the old - and obviously worn - bobbins were held in place with E-clips which popped off nicely with a little encouragement. The shiny new bits are also secured with E-clips. Took about two weeks for the parts to arrive from London via the Royal Post. I think they cost me about $80, all told.

 

[ksdcr]

Steve,

Thanks for posting this. I’ve been meaning to replace the bobbins on my 2000 R11100 RS, which have been rattling for the past 20K miles.

I see that you removed the brake disc for this job. I was planning to do the replacement, with the front wheel in place. Any reason I should re consider this method?

 

[m_stock10506]

https://boxer-upgrades.webs.com/apps/webstore/

Cata Dan in Romania makes a set of replacement bobbins. I’ve used them for my 1100RT, and for a friend too. Highly recommend.

As far as rotor removal, you can angle your tools to release the clips and then reinstall. If you do the job at the same time you replace a front tire, removing the rotor from the wheel is really trivial-use heat on the screws before you try to loosen them. The whole job is then really easy since you can just flip the rotor over and lay it on a pad while you replace the bobbins.

 

[BC1100S]

I was planning to do the replacement, with the front wheel in place. Any reason I should re consider this method?

Might be difficult getting the disc past the wheel axle.

 

[ksdcr]

Might be difficult getting the disc past the wheel axle.

Is it absolutely necessary to remove the disc?

I plan to remove one bobbin at a time, as I replace them.

 

[ALIENHITCHHIKER]

. I see that you removed the brake disc for this job. I was planning to do the replacement, with the front wheel in place. Any reason I should re consider this method?

I definitely recommend removing the wheel from the bike, and then removing the rotor carriers - which is what I did. Your knuckles will thank you. And what the heck - it's a great chance to clean up the nooks and crannies on that front wheel, check the bearings, etc.

As others have noted, the rotor carriers are not difficult to remove. Mine used torx head bolts. Surprisingly, they are only snugged down to 21Nms with the cast aluminum rims, so there was no drama in removing them.

 

[ksdcr]

So, you mark the Rotors/discs, directional, as well as which side, correct?

I definitely recommend removing the wheel from the bike, and then removing the rotor carriers - which is what I did. Your knuckles will thank you. And what the heck - it's a great chance to clean up the nooks and crannies on that front wheel, check the bearings, etc.

As others have noted, the rotor carriers are not difficult to remove. Mine used torx head bolts. Surprisingly, they are only snugged down to 21Nms with the cast aluminum rims, so there was no drama in removing them.

 

[pglaves]

So, you mark the Rotors/discs, directional, as well as which side, correct?

Note that the clips are on the side of the rotor toward the wheel. Then take the rotors off the wheel one at a time. Do the bobbins, reinstall the rotor to the wheel. Repeat for the other rotor.

 

[chrisinsc]

I put in stainless replacements from Motorworks Uk on my 1100 and they are too tight I think and don't allow the rotors to float enough. I took the wheel off and the rotors. Total pita. If stock alum ones were around I would put them on instead. The ones I took off were worn through in some cases.

 

[jrogers]

Looks like they really want to get you to replace the Rotor as a fix.

 

[richo2006]

Hello,

I'm replacing the bobbins on my '93 K1100LT. The roll pins w/o snap ring came out easy, the ones with snap rings didn't want to come out at all. I was able to get them out (on one rotor) by driving them out which caused some scaring of the hole.

I'm about ready to start on the second rotor.

Is there a trick to removing the roll pins with snap ring?


Regards,

Richard in Commerce Township, MI

 

[pglaves]

Hello,

I'm replacing the bobbins on my '93 K1100LT. The roll pins w/o snap ring came out easy, the ones with snap rings didn't want to come out at all. I was able to get them out (on one rotor) by driving them out which caused some scaring of the hole.

I'm about ready to start on the second rotor.

Is there a trick to removing the roll pins with snap ring?


Regards,

Richard in Commerce Township, MI

I suspect that the steel rings will corrode, causing them to stick. I think applying a little penetrating oil will make them easy to remove. But then of course the lubricant needs to be thoroughly cleaned from the disk and carrier.

 

[richo2006]

Hello,

There wasn't any corrosion on the three that I removed by driving them out. It seems that snap ring was siting in a groove.

Do the holes in the rotor/carrier with the snap ring have a groove from the factory or did that groove come from the snap ring wearing into the rotor/carrier?

Regards,

Richard

 

[m_stock10506]

There wasn't any corrosion on the three that I removed by driving them out. It seems that snap ring was siting in a groove.

Do the holes in the rotor/carrier with the snap ring have a groove from the factory or did that groove come from the snap ring wearing into the rotor/carrier?

Regards,
Richard

I have read recommendations to shift the bobbins over one hole to avoid that problem. All of the holes start out the same. FWIW the replacement bobbin kit that I have used from Cata Dan does not use any snap rings, and the rotors float perfectly and keep the rotor very firmly in the carrier.

 

[richo2006]

Hello,

Thanks for the information. If the bobbin kit you used didn't have the snap ring bobbins, it makes me wonder what is the purpose of the snap rings? Are they some kind of safety thing?

Also, I did come up with a fairly easy way to remove the snap ring bobbins. It involves drilling them out with a 27/64" drill bit. I'll post pictures later.

Regards,

Richard in Commerce, MI

 

[pglaves]

Hello,

Thanks for the information. If the bobbin kit you used didn't have the snap ring bobbins, it makes me wonder what is the purpose of the snap rings? Are they some kind of safety thing?

Also, I did come up with a fairly easy way to remove the snap ring bobbins. It involves drilling them out with a 27/64" drill bit. I'll post pictures later.

Regards,

Richard in Commerce, MI

They are tensioning rings. The purpose is anti-rattle. With the brake applied any slight looseness is not consequential, but otherwise the disk can rattle on the carrier a little bit.

 

[Paul_F]

Checking with the parts dept at my local BMW dealership I was a bit surprised to discover that BMW no longer sources replacement bobbins for my 21 year old bike. The fellow behind the parts counter wasn't even able to suggest a vendor that might have them available.

Having a couple of older BMW bikes, I am finding this disturbing that BMW seems to not be supplying parts (as they have in the past) for these bikes. My BMW mechanic told me that recently he couldn't get OEM brake lines for a 2001 R1150RT. Besides having produced great machines, one plus with owning a BMW (unlike many other bike manufacturers), was a reliable source for parts, no matter the year of production.

Is this an end of an era?

 

[BC1100S]

My BMW mechanic told me that recently he couldn't get OEM brake lines for a 2001 R1150RT.

There's probably a good reason for that.

 

[richo2006]

Hello,

A week or so ago I went to my local BMW dealer and I was told by the parts guy that BMW no longer supplies the bobbins. Then I went online to Max BMW and ordered them there. The OEM bobbins from Max arrived yesterday.

Recently, there have been two different parts I couldn't get through my local dealer, but I could through Max.

Regards,


Richard in Commerce MI

 

[pglaves]

Hello,

A week or so ago I went to my local BMW dealer and I was told by the parts guy that BMW no longer supplies the bobbins. Then I went online to Max BMW and ordered them there. The OEM bobbins from Max arrived yesterday.

Recently, there have been two different parts I couldn't get through my local dealer, but I could through Max.

Regards,


Richard in Commerce MI

Sometimes parts guys won't put in the effort. And sometimes a dealer might have an NLA part in stock on the back shelf somewhere.