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Quality of aftermarket parts

simonak3000

New member
Hi.
Just got myself a really clean 2003 R1150GS and im sad to see that there is play in the final drive. Since Im preparing for some big road trips in the coming years, I want to completly rebuild my final drive this winter. Im planning to get a BMW shop to do the job since I want to fix the problem for the rest of the vehicle life. The big problem I have is: im currently still studying at university and BMW OE parts are unbelievebly expensive, so paying upwards of 230$CAN for a single bearing just isn't gonna cut it. One of my friend who just finished restoring 2 K75 recommended me the site "Motobins" for good aftermarket parts. If I buy everything I need for my final drive rebuild there, It will cost me about 1/4th as much as the OEM stuff. What is the general concensus in the community? Would I find myself with a broken final drive after 20miles if I use aftermarket parts? I mean im all in for using OE stuff as much as possible but still, a bearing is a bearing... Let me know your thoughts on this
.


L.Leblanc
2003 BMW R1150GS
1982 Suzuki GS650GL
 
Louis -

We've all been there. One question I came away with is what is the BMW's shop policy about using parts that you supply?
 
Another option to consider is purchasing a good used final drive unit. I have purchased many good, used items
from Re-Psycle BMW. I have had more of a mixed set of results in purchasing items from ebay and at swap
meets.

https://re-psycle.com/

One thing about final drives - there are several bearings and sets of shims. Because of the right-angle
bend getting the correct shims installed is very important and requires an experienced technician. This
is somewhat labor intensive. I think that the local BMW shop charges something like $90 per half-hour.

There use to be a very good BMW tech in Canada, named Bruno, but I do not know his current status. Tom
Cutter is another person (in the US) that does good work. Ted Porter's Beemershop in California now
sends work out to someone else; still it might be worth calling them to discuss.

http://www.rubberchickenracinggarage.com/ <= this is for Tom Cutter

http://www.brunos.us/ <= Bruno's link is not working, this is not a good sign
brunos@brunos.us
705 843 0822
Bruno Sax
c/o Bruno's Machine and Repair
Hwy 554 #47
Iron Bridge, Ontario
POR1HO, Canada

https://www.beemershop.com/ <=Ted Porter's Beemershop
 
Im looking with my local Motorrad shop. I asked them if they would be comfortable doing this king of job, waiting of an answer. I think Il try to send an email to this Bruno guy.
 
Im looking with my local Motorrad shop. I asked them if they would be comfortable doing this king of job, waiting of an answer. I think Il try to send an email to this Bruno guy.

In the past Bruno indicated that his email box was frequently so jammed up with spam and junk that it was difficult to respond to legitimate queries. Calling and leaving a message is likely a better option. Bruno has had
some serious health challenges and I do not know his current status. Perhaps someone with more current knowledge can chime in.
 
In the past Bruno indicated that his email box was frequently so jammed up with spam and junk that it was difficult to respond to legitimate queries. Calling and leaving a message is likely a better option. Bruno has had
some serious health challenges and I do not know his current status. Perhaps someone with more current knowledge can chime in.

Bruno did have a serious health issue a few years ago. A friend who was quite chummy with Bruno has been unable to contact him for at least the last five years. Prior to that Bruno told him that his drive shaft rebuild would be his final job. We have concluded (incorrectly we hope) that Bruno is no longer with us.
 
Bruno did have a serious health issue a few years ago. A friend who was quite chummy with Bruno has been unable to contact him for at least the last five years. Prior to that Bruno told him that his drive shaft rebuild would be his final job. We have concluded (incorrectly we hope) that Bruno is no longer with us.

Ok I think its fair to say that Bruno is out of the question. Maybe Mr Cutter? if the INTL shipping costs are not too insane it could be a good idea
 
Your local BMW shop may not touch a 2003 model... "It's too old for us" ... Check carefully; if they don't want to do it (and a dealership will charge more than anybody else), maybe they have a guy who does it on the side, or can recommend somebody.
Tom Cutter's shop has an excellent reputation, so maybe you could haul your parts (or bike) down there (a little northeast of Trenton, maybe 570 miles?), to avoid the shipping, then ride it home.
 
Your local BMW shop may not touch a 2003 model... "It's too old for us" ... Check carefully; if they don't want to do it (and a dealership will charge more than anybody else), maybe they have a guy who does it on the side, or can recommend somebody.
Tom Cutter's shop has an excellent reputation, so maybe you could haul your parts (or bike) down there (a little northeast of Trenton, maybe 570 miles?), to avoid the shipping, then ride it home.

13H from home, so 26H round trip, its a bit far for me. Where Im from the winters are 6 months long so I dont mind if it takes a month to get there with shipping. The final drive alone shouldn't weigh too much right?
 
It needs to be determined if the free play is due to the shaft or the rear end (right-angle drive gears), so shipping both may be a bit heavy... but I don't see either FedEx or UPS having a problem as long as it's all packed up carefully.

Some of that slop may be from the transmission, or the transmission's output shaft mating to the clutch input; this is a "known weak point". If it shifts well, then this is "probably" OK.
 
I just sent out a failed final drive for one of my bikes. Ted Porter recommeded Britts and Beemers Bikewerks in Caldwell, ID. He also is doing head work.
 
It needs to be determined if the free play is due to the shaft or the rear end (right-angle drive gears), so shipping both may be a bit heavy... but I don't see either FedEx or UPS having a problem as long as it's all packed up carefully.

Some of that slop may be from the transmission, or the transmission's output shaft mating to the clutch input; this is a "known weak point". If it shifts well, then this is "probably" OK.

Ill try to mesure my backlash at the wheel in degrees in the coming days. I read that those bikes do get a fair amount of backlash as normal.
 
I'd buy a used low mileage unit instead of rebuilding the current one. You can swap it pretty easily, as well. It's only a few fasteners and it bolts right up.
 
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