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R1150GS rear wheel play.

simonak3000

New member
I have discovered some rear wheel play on my newly aquired R1150GS 2003 with 48700mi. I was thinking of doing a full final drive rebuild but after doing some research on this sub, i found out that in more than a couple of cases, its not the big crown wheel bearing that is causing the play, but the two smaller final drive to swing arm bearing that go bad. My question is: With the rear wheel raised, is there a way to be sure of which bearing is going bad? Is there a specific technique used? If I dont have to open the final drive and change the crown wheel bearing then I would be very happy and could wait for a more opportune moment. Thanks!
 
If you don't have any oil leaks from the rear drive then your pivot bearings are the likely culprit(s).

There is a test which involves stepping on the rear brake and then, with one hand on the 9 o'clock position and the other hand on the 3 o'clock position, try to pivot the wheel on this axis. Same on the 12 and 6 axis. Best accomplished with 2 people. For the life of me I can't recall which movement in one direction or the other denotes pivot bearing wear. But someone who DOES know will be chiming in soon.
 
I also measured my rear wheel backlash on the 1st gear using a small piece of green tape.

Here is the wheel completely forward:
354513727_975011680587024_6669509782241408225_n.jpg

Here is the wheel completely back
354892471_589053116699634_5560493768121083247_n.jpg

Dont know if the pictures are loading but its a good 5 degrees. When I move the wheel, the clunking comes from the transmission, about here:
355036242_622374296534643_7512627577665289624_n.jpg

I guess its pretty normal that its clunking there but all of that is to say that I dont think the backlash comes from my final drive. Ill be waiting for a guru to come on this post to clarify the test you were talking about. Could be a good way to be certain and not buy expensive parts for nothing
 
I would contact an expert. I had my 04 R1150RT final drive rebuild by Anton Largiader. He did a great job. Lots of experience. He can probably coach you through how to diagnose and probability of what is or can deteriorate/fail at your age/mileage.

http://largiader.com/

Good luck.
 
I also measured my rear wheel backlash on the 1st gear using a small piece of green tape.

Here is the wheel completely forward:
View attachment 92259

Here is the wheel completely back
View attachment 92260

Dont know if the pictures are loading but its a good 5 degrees. When I move the wheel, the clunking comes from the transmission, about here:
View attachment 92261

I guess its pretty normal that its clunking there but all of that is to say that I dont think the backlash comes from my final drive. Ill be waiting for a guru to come on this post to clarify the test you were talking about. Could be a good way to be certain and not buy expensive parts for nothing

The backlash is the dogs in the transmission. Normal.

Have someone step on the brake while you rock the wheel 12-6. If you still feel play its the paralever bearings.
 
The backlash is the dogs in the transmission. Normal.

Have someone step on the brake while you rock the wheel 12-6. If you still feel play its the paralever bearings.

And if I dont its the crown wheel bearing? Ill try to test it tonight but I was feeling play in the 9-3 position.

So to summarize: step on the rear brake, rock the wheel at 9-3 and 12-6: If it moves at 12-6 its the paralever bearings, if it moves at 9-3 its the ???
 
And if I dont its the crown wheel bearing? Ill try to test it tonight but I was feeling play in the 9-3 position.

So to summarize: step on the rear brake, rock the wheel at 9-3 and 12-6: If it moves at 12-6 its the paralever bearings, if it moves at 9-3 its the ???

Not exactly. With the brake held firmly the crownwheel to which the wheel is mounted cannot move relative to the case - it is clamped in place by the brake. So any movement felt when the brake is applied will be in the mount and not the internal bearings.

As an aside, I have never seen a case where final drive gear tooth wear caused rotational free play.
 
Not exactly. With the brake held firmly the crownwheel to which the wheel is mounted cannot move relative to the case - it is clamped in place by the brake. So any movement felt when the brake is applied will be in the mount and not the internal bearings.

As an aside, I have never seen a case where final drive gear tooth wear caused rotational free play.

So my backlash is probably caused by the spline goint into the tranny? If you tell me that amount of backlash is normal I wont go any further. Its just that when I ride, when I change gear and let go of the clutch I sometimes hear and feel the backash, like a clunking sound. I know shaft drives have more backlash that chain drive but im not sure how much is too much
 
So my backlash is probably caused by the spline goint into the tranny? If you tell me that amount of backlash is normal I wont go any further. Its just that when I ride, when I change gear and let go of the clutch I sometimes hear and feel the backash, like a clunking sound. I know shaft drives have more backlash that chain drive but im not sure how much is too much

There is no backlash in any of the splines.
What you are seeing is the movement between the gear dogs.
 

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There is no backlash in any of the splines.
What you are seeing is the movement between the gear dogs.

So These trans just naturally have a lot of freeplay? No risk of breaking something? Forgive me if Im asking a lot of questions, its a new bike to me and I want to make sure everything is working as it should be.

Also, my last bike(and also my first) bike was a Japanese 4cyl cruiser (GS650 shafty), and it never had that much free play. Its a whole new world, learning what is normal and what is not.
 
So These trans just naturally have a lot of freeplay? No risk of breaking something? Forgive me if Im asking a lot of questions, its a new bike to me and I want to make sure everything is working as it should be.

You may have noticed how the gearbox goes ker-BLONK while shifting. :ha

Yes, there is typically a lot of driveline lash with these bikes… taking into account the gearbox, drive shaft and rear drive. Monitor this closely, have someone who knows how show you the way to make sure your drive shaft u-joints are healthy.
 
The 1150 transmission gears are very robust. put away the worry beads.
I had over 350,000km on mine before changing the bearings while doing an upgrade.
Gears were perfect.
 
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