OK I did a bonehead thing: A ride on my R1150RT with Adventure bikers.

[Kutter]

It was an EMGO "race-proven" filter. It did not fit right so I put the stock one back in. It is a paper filter & an engineer at work told me that if a paper filter gets wet (& mine certainly did) the pores close up as they dry & won't pass as much air. Maybe the miss is because it is getting too much fuel when I open the throttle for the amount of air it can pull in. I'm waiting on a new paper filter to come. I guess i could run a bit w/o it and see if that is the problem. i may burn a bug or 2. I will check the plug wires and connections while I have the fairings off.

 

[BC1100S]

But more to the point - why were/are you using a K&N air filter? What prompted you to do this?

A couple or three reasons:

1. Long term savings
2. I've been using them for 20+ years in cars and bikes and haven't experienced anything detrimental
3. HUMONGOUS power increase (ok, I may be exaggerating just a little )
4. I never go off road

 

[BC1100S]

I'm waiting on a new paper filter to come. I guess i could run a bit w/o it and see if that is the problem.

Bad idea.

 

[pglaves]

A couple or three reasons:

1. Long term savings
2. I've been using them for 20+ years in cars and bikes and haven't experienced anything detrimental
3. HUMONGOUS power increase (ok, I may be exaggerating just a little )
4. I never go off road

The stock OEM air filters can go 50,000 plus miles with a few knocks on the workbench to bang off the accumulation of dust on the surface. Just how much money can be saved here?

Dyno tests have shown that a stock filter can be at least 50% covered with Saran Wrap with no degradation in engine power. If you are getting power increases somebody must have left some nitrous oxide imbedded in the filter.

 

[Jeff488]

If you are getting power increases somebody must have left some nitrous oxide imbedded in the filter.

 

[BC1100S]

The stock OEM air filters can go 50,000 plus miles with a few knocks on the workbench to bang off the accumulation of dust on the surface.

Said in my best Johnny Carson voice, "I did not know that."

I've got a new stock filter, perhaps I'll slide that in and leave it at that.

Dyno tests have shown that a stock filter can be at least 50% covered with Saran Wrap with no degradation in engine power. If you are getting power increases somebody must have left some nitrous oxide imbedded in the filter.

I didn't say the power increase was measurable.

 

[Kutter]

I'm taking a nice long ride today. May give that injector cleaning time to work. Maybe I can burn a tank full. Mostly Highway. I'll stop in the BMW dealer a little later & pick up a new air filter.

 

[Kutter]

It is beginning to run better. Changed the gearbox oil & final drive oil, & got a new air cleaner. It has not yet run as good as it did before this whole debacle. Something in the fueling does not seem right. Most of the time it will idle now. It occasionally stalls. It is more than frustrating.

 

[Omega Man]

You'll be fine.
OM

 

[wkuwiz]

Somewhat of a hijack, but... I love crossing creeks near the Mulberry. I've only ridden there in April and the creeks got deep enough that we didn't need to try the river.

20
Not a bad place for a street bike either.

Thus the reason I have both an RT and a GS. Different bikes for different uses. After yesterday's rains though, no one is crossing much of anything. The Mulberry overflowed onto the Pigtail (Hiway 23) at Turner's Bend. Big water!

 

[Kutter]

i'm not fine

I just did a proper compression test. Left, 170 psi, check. Right, 120-140, then when I stopped, it leaked to 0 psi within 3 sec. TROUBLE.
I either have a valve or a piston problem. I'm reviewing now how to remove the head. I figure if I take the head (if its a valve issue) to the BMW shop it will cost me considerably less than if they have to do what I did so far. Then I can leave my baby here in my garage & I won't have them telling me the device that richens my fuel is the issue.

 

[BMARC153920]

Bummer. Is it using any oil? Smoking? If not may be valve more than rings I'd guess.

 

[Omega Man]

I just did a proper compression test. Left, 170 psi, check. Right, 120-140, then when I stopped, it leaked to 0 psi within 3 sec. TROUBLE.
I either have a valve or a piston problem. I'm reviewing now how to remove the head. I figure if I take the head (if its a valve issue) to the BMW shop it will cost me considerably less than if they have to do what I did so far. Then I can leave my baby here in my garage & I won't have them telling me the device that richens my fuel is the issue.

I did a run through the thread and didn't see a mileage number. In the old days we could clean some carbon out of an engine by pouring a little water down the carburetor. If the water that got in happened to get a little carbon loose, it could be stuck under the valve lip- holding it open. You mentioned that the bike used to run real nice.....Do you know anyone with a bore-scope? You could take a peek.
OM

 

[pglaves]

I did a run through the thread and didn't see a mileage number. In the old days we could clean some carbon out of an engine by pouring a little water down the carburetor. If the water that got in happened to get a little carbon loose, it could be stuck under the valve lip- holding it open. You mentioned that the bike used to run real nice.....Do you know anyone with a bore-scope? You could take a peek.
OM

Had this happen to Voni's Big Red R1100RS. Needed to pull head and clean up the valve.

This is a very good possibility. It wouldn't take much of a spec of carbon to drop the compression.

 

[Kutter]

15,000 miles, barely broken in. Likely a valve issue. Bad enough to make it idle like an old Harley. And stall sometimes. It burns no oil. When I used a scope to see in the cylinder the cylinder wall look like they still show cross hatched honing marks.

 

[rxcrider]

Thus the reason I have both an RT and a GS. Different bikes for different uses. After yesterday's rains though, no one is crossing much of anything. The Mulberry overflowed onto the Pigtail (Hiway 23) at Turner's Bend. Big water!

That is a lot of water!!!


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[rxcrider]

I just did a proper compression test. Left, 170 psi, check. Right, 120-140, then when I stopped, it leaked to 0 psi within 3 sec. TROUBLE.
I either have a valve or a piston problem. I'm reviewing now how to remove the head. I figure if I take the head (if its a valve issue) to the BMW shop it will cost me considerably less than if they have to do what I did so far. Then I can leave my baby here in my garage & I won't have them telling me the device that richens my fuel is the issue.

Fix your compression gauge. It should never leak down until you push the dump button, opening the Schrader valve behind it. The lightly sprung Schrader valve at the threaded hose end is usually the first to go. Don't replace it with a valve other than one specifically meant to open at a slight pressure differential in a compression gauge. Even the correct valve throws off the pressure reading by a couple PSI. A failing valve will show low compression along with not holding the reading.

At work, we use a pressure transducer on a compression gauge hose while driving the engine through an RPM sweep on a dyno to check automatic compression release performance. We have found that we must replace the Schrader valve before each test in order to get accurate results. If we see the pressure drop off during the test or after the crankshaft has stopped turning, it means we failed the Schrader valve.


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[Paladinwest]

I just did a proper compression test. Left, 170 psi, check. Right, 120-140, then when I stopped, it leaked to 0 psi within 3 sec. TROUBLE.
I either have a valve or a piston problem. I'm reviewing now how to remove the head. I figure if I take the head (if its a valve issue) to the BMW shop it will cost me considerably less than if they have to do what I did so far. Then I can leave my baby here in my garage & I won't have them telling me the device that richens my fuel is the issue.

Get a leak down test done, you can use that to determine if the leakage is through the intake, exhaust or the rings. It is a much better diagnostic test than a simple compression test.

 

[Kutter]

Any suggestions for getting the sprocket bolt loose? In the head? I need to remove the head but that won't happen unless the sprocket bolt comes loose. Probably has never come off since it was built. I bought an Ingersol Rand impact wrench and no dice. I tried penetrating oil, heat till the oil started smoking and I can't get it to budge. HELP!

 

[Kutter]

By the way, Has anyone used Bombar's Beemers in NC for head work or anything else? That is where I plan to send the head for valve work.