‘02 R1150RT Hydraulic clutch fluid recommendations?

[PGlaves]

On the chance that my slave cylinder is leaking (seems probable), I watched a couple YouTube videos which was posted by an Oilhead owner (perhaps an MOA member, I wonder) who replaced the clutch slave cylinder on an ‘04 R1150RT. You need to take half the bike apart for this procedure! YIKES! Somebody grab the smelling salts, I feel faint.

It is possible to remove and replace the slave cylinder without removing the transmission, or even the swingarm. But it is futzy. The bolts retaining the slave cylinder need to be removed first. Then while still in place the slave cylinder needs to be rotated (clockwise if I remember correctly) so that an allen wrench can be used to disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave. (I left the bleeder line loosened but still attached until I had the slave out.) Then the slave cylinder can be removed between the top of the swingarm and the frame cross member but it is a snug fit and needs to be rotated so the skinniest cross section is vertical.

Assembly is the reverse. Carefully slip the new cylinder forward between the frame and swingarm. Place the cylinder into its recess. Rotate the slave so the hydraulic line can be attached. Use that new crush washer. Rotate the slave back into its normal position so the retaining capscrews (aka bolts) can be inserted and tightened.

As I said this is futzy but I did it with the tools I haul around, in a borrowed garage, (thanks Sue Rihn and Bryan Manke) while on a trip from Kansas through Wisconsin. This was on my 2003 R1150R but I don't think it would be any different on an RT.

 

[tangoalpha]

Thank the MOA for the Anonymous Book and the members who are willing to provide the necessary resources to get our bikes back on the road. Honestly, I haven’t found a greater community of riders/owners/members of any brand of motorcycle than what we have with the MOA.

I’ve said it before, I’ll say it again…if it wasn’t for the members of the MOA and in particular, this Oilhead group there’s no way that I would have the confidence or even consider the notion of tackling a project like this.

By the way, do you recall how long you spent on that slave cylinder job?

 

[davidk]

The MC fluid level rises as the clutch wears so it's very important to set the level in the MC at 1/2. If your fluid level dropped, I can pretty much guarantee the slave is leaking. Best have a look at it soon before it spoils your disk.

 

[PGlaves]

By the way, do you recall how long you spent on that slave cylinder job?

Probably about two hours because I had done it once before at home on my lift. The first time I was making it up as I went along, trying to avoid removing the swingarm.

 

[tangoalpha]

Probably about two hours because I had done it once before at home on my lift. The first time I was making it up as I went along, trying to avoid removing the swingarm.

Paul, you always make things sound so easy. Let’s see if I can do the math… take Paul’s 2 hour slave cylinder replacement job + 4 hours for the average Oilhead mechanic + 8 hours for dealership labor calculated by “book hours” + 22 hours for the inexperienced Tango Alpha factor = 36 hours for me to complete the job, assuming I do it correctly with no “extra” parts left afterwards.

 

[bc1100s]

Somewhere…right now, Paul Glaves is sitting back eating a bag of popcorn and laughing as he reads my latest post as he shakes his head. “ Oh Tango…..”

Not just Paul Glaves.

 

[tangoalpha]

Not just Paul Glaves.

Fair point. Sometime I amuse even myself.

 

[Lendog]

Hello Oilheads! I hope that you’re all doing great on this beautiful Saturday.

As you might recall, after moving to Texas I went through the process of having Der Beemer inspected so I can register it here. Well, that’s been done and just yesterday, I had the title transferred, so my bike now wears Texas plates! I took my bike for a cruise to fill up the tank and flush out the older gas that been sitting in the tank. The bike runs fine overall, but it did stumble slightly when at idle which I attribute to the old gas. After filling up with premium (93 octane) and adding some BMW Fuel System Clean Plus in the tank the idle almost immediately smoothed out. I’m sure it will improve more by the time it’s time for my next fill-up.

One thing I did notice however while riding was that when pulling in the clutch level while in N and shifting to first gear, the bike remained in N. I reattempted the process and the bike went in to 1st gear. This happened twice while riding, so after returning to the garage, I checked my hydraulic clutch fluid. Sure enough, the fluid dropped below center and was only slightly above the bottom of the circle in the sight window.

That got me searching for hydraulic clutch fluid. Being an older RT (2002) my bike doesn’t use the newer V fluid. So I made a trip to my local BMW Motorrad dealership and to my surprise they didn’t have the clutch fluid in stock. A quick check on Beemerboneyard and Sierra BMW’s websites and neither of them seem to carry that hydraulic clutch fluid! What gives? Why does this clutch fluid seem to be so darn hard to find? It seems elusive. Am I missing something here?

So once again, out of frustration I am turning to my Oilhead family looking for answers. You’re the only group of riders and enthusiasts who seem to have knowledge about these bikes and answers to my questions. Funny thing…I did a search of the forum looking for the answer to my question and found a post of a member with an ‘02 R1150RT. I opened the post hoping to find the answer I was searching for….turns out it was one of my posts from 2017. Doh! Same guy, still posting questions about my relic RT that I refuse to give up on. For the record, I blame YOU for that!

Thanks guys and gals. Sure appreciate all your help through the years.

it’s not that complicated, it’s dot 4 brake fluid, its listed in the PDI manual, it’s listed in the owners manual, it’s listed in the riders manual, it’s listed in the repair manual,
This is an example of what can happen when a computer person gets a motorcycle, be careful this could happen to anyone who is computer savvy

 

[33180]

New member since 1984.
The Clutch Slave Cylinder on Oilheads is a whole separate category of mechanical anxiety. Without biennial bleeding the risk of fluid leakage rises and that can eat seals and migrate to the clutch plate. Tangoalpha, if you can bleed servo brakes, you're in like a tall dog on the clutch slave. As it has had no recent bleeding, removal/inspection is a reeeeally good idea. You'll need the "Mickey Mouse" gasket and 2 banjo fitting seal rings. Looks like you have the speed bleeder sorted. On my R1100S removal requires rear wheel and shock removal, but yours might be easier.
If the SC contains gelled, strong smelling goo you might have brake fluid that has mixed with gear oil. I removed and replaced the little brown seal that goes around the clutch rod at the rear of the tranny after finding such goo, a true itch-bay on my S. It's possible the horse has sailed out of the station already, but clutch doesn't seem to slip so far. I also replaced the SC with the aftermarket unit from EME, which some will poo poo in favor of the official BMW/Magura part, but I'm one of those cheapest-part-on-the-bike types. Do make sure the throwout bearing is well-lubed on reassembly. Good luck. Yours was an interesting thread to follow, and I echo you appreciation of much of the knowledge passed along here. Much, not all. Plenty of goofball opinions here too. ;-)

 

[1wheeldrive]

New member since 1984.
The Clutch Slave Cylinder on Oilheads is a whole separate category of mechanical anxiety. Without biennial bleeding the risk of fluid leakage rises and that can eat seals and migrate to the clutch plate. Tangoalpha, if you can bleed servo brakes, you're in like a tall dog on the clutch slave. As it has had no recent bleeding, removal/inspection is a reeeeally good idea. You'll need the "Mickey Mouse" gasket and 2 banjo fitting seal rings. Looks like you have the speed bleeder sorted. On my R1100S removal requires rear wheel and shock removal, but yours might be easier.
If the SC contains gelled, strong smelling goo you might have brake fluid that has mixed with gear oil. I removed and replaced the little brown seal that goes around the clutch rod at the rear of the tranny after finding such goo, a true itch-bay on my S. It's possible the horse has sailed out of the station already, but clutch doesn't seem to slip so far. I also replaced the SC with the aftermarket unit from EME, which some will poo poo in favor of the official BMW/Magura part, but I'm one of those cheapest-part-on-the-bike types. Do make sure the throwout bearing is well-lubed on reassembly. Good luck. Yours was an interesting thread to follow, and I echo you appreciation of much of the knowledge passed along here. Much, not all. Plenty of goofball opinions here too. ;-)

You mentioned lubing the throw-out bearing well. I assume you are talking about the small bearing in the Slave Cylinder piston that the clutch push rod seats in. I posed a question on K-bikes forum (my K12RS has the same kind of slave cylinder arrangement) asking what would be an appropriate lube for that bearing, but got no reply.

My theory is that most failed slave cylinders are due to that throwout bearing failing, which then causes the slave piston to be spun by the spinning push-rod, which in turn kills the piston seal, allowing clutch fluid to leak down the pushrod and contaminate the clutch disk.

 

[33180]

You mentioned lubing the throw-out bearing well. I assume you are talking about the small bearing in the Slave Cylinder piston that the clutch push rod seats in. I posed a question on K-bikes forum (my K12RS has the same kind of slave cylinder arrangement) asking what would be an appropriate lube for that bearing, but got no reply.

My theory is that most failed slave cylinders are due to that throwout bearing failing, which then causes the slave piston to be spun by the spinning push-rod, which in turn kills the piston seal, allowing clutch fluid to leak down the pushrod and contaminate the clutch disk.

As good a theory as any. The SC is a fairly delicate flower for the tough work it has to do and is sure inconvenient to service.
For the throwout bearing I would use wheel bearing grease or the like; something that would not spin off too readily and can stand some heat and constant friction.
Mine failed between one stoplight and the next last week, the hydraulic equivalent of a clutch cable snapping. Clutch does not disengage so it’s either MC, SC or air in the line, but the suddenness was surprising. That might mean bearing died and rod now pokes right through it. Digging into it tomorrow.

 

[1wheeldrive]

Most failures seem to be loss of fluid from the Slave when the cylinder seal goes bad. If you didn’t get any brake fluid down the pushrod causing the clutch to slip, the first you might notice it could be when the master goes dry and starts sucking air. Then you wouldn’t be able to disengage the clutch. But I wouldn’t expect that to be quite so sudden.