• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

Oil Drain Plug Tool -First DIY Oil Change 04 1150RT/Stupid Question Alert

175781

Bill Lumberg
I change the oil on everything else. So it's time to do the RT. Filter wrench: check. Overpriced Oil from Autozone (almost twice the price as the same brand/weight for cars): Check. Torque wrench: Check. Crush washers: Check. Filter: Check. Then, when I get under the bike, I realize that none of my sockets will be useful. Guys- what tool/torx/whatever bit do I need for my ratchet to fit the drain plug? Dumbest question ever I'm sure. Thanks.
 
If your going to do more of your own work, look into a set of socket style set-up. Sometimes the small are 1/4" drive with the larger being 1/2"- in the same set.
OM
 
Notice when buying a set of metric tools, that frequently there are certain intermediate sizes that are not included even though they may be needed. It must be a visual marketing thing as there are so many more metric wrench and key sizes within a given range than there are in the inch system.
 

Another "German Standard."

All BMW bikes in recent history (not sure about water cooled boxers) use this size, save probably for the singles and vertical twins. Even when all the other fasteners were changed to Torx, the engine oil drain plug remained inhex (allen). My SnapOn 3/8 hex driver is so old it has black anodized rings rather than knurled rings (indicating metric) which means from the 1970s.
 
If your going to do more of your own work, look into a set of socket style set-up. Sometimes the small are 1/4" drive with the larger being 1/2"- in the same set.
OM

+1 - best Christmas present I ever had my wife buy for me! There isn't a hex bolt out there that I can't get off. AND I don't fear camming the bolt over with the set since they fit so well.
 
+1 - best Christmas present I ever had my wife buy for me! There isn't a hex bolt out there that I can't get off. AND I don't fear camming the bolt over with the set since they fit so well.

So you've 7mm and 9mm, then, which you'll need for brakes on recent German cars. 7mm also for Wunderlich "security" fill plug for Oilheads.
 
The contents of the basic Craftsman metric hex driver socket set have been sufficient for every (hex) task on my R1100RT and my former K75C, with the exception of the 12mm swingarm bolts and the 3mm fairing panel screws.
 
Thanks for all the info. Changed oil today. No more eventful than doing it in my Chevrolet pickup, thanks to info here.
 
Back
Top