F-Twins Tech – F650/700/800 - Engine Oil Change with Filter

[drneo66]

The articles, posts and comments in this tech section are posted by individual members and reflect their personal thoughts and experiences with repairing, maintaining, and generally working on motorcycles. This information may require specific knowledge and skills, may or may not be correct or current to model.

The authors of information found here and the BMW MOA take no responsibility for ensuring the accuracy of any information (including procedures, techniques, parts numbers, torque values, tool usage, etc.), or further for any damage of any kind or injuries incurred or caused by anyone following the instructions or information found here.

It is the duty of the individual to either assume the liability himself for responsibly using the information found here, or to take the bike or accessory to a Dealer or other qualified professional service.

Lastly, please ensure you dispose of your used chemicals, oils and fuels in an environmentally responsible manner. Most Auto Parts stores and service stations will accept used oil and lubricants, tires and batteries, please check for your local availability. Here's a link where you can look up a place to dispose of your used fluids (oil, coolant, brake fluid, etc.) - http://earth911.com/

This article, text and photos are Copyright of the individual authors and the BMW MOA, any copying or redistributing is permitted only by prior written authorization.

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Changing the Engine Oil and Filter on your BMW F650, F700, or F800 Twin-Cylinder Motorcycle

Besides tires, there is nothing more hotly debated on various motorcycle forums than engine oil. Personally, I ascribe to this thinking: "Having engine oil is better than having no engine oil. Having engine oil at the correct level is better than having engine oil that is too low or too high. Having the correct viscosity/rating is better than the incorrect viscosity/rating. Finally - Having clean oil is better than having dirty oil."

With that in mind, BMW currently recommends that the 650/700/800 twin-cylinder "F" motorcycles use a SAE 15W-50 API SJ/JASO MA2 type of oil.

Originally, BMW recommend a different weight of oil, but then released a bulletin in March of 2013 (71-04-2013 (005)) noting the switch. At the same time, all of the motorcycle owner's manuals received the updated specification. The SJ rating denotes the oil has been tested according to the American Chemistry Council Product Approval Code of Practice and may utilize the API Base Oil Interchange and Viscosity Grade Engine Testing Guidelines, while the JASO MA2 is the "Japanese Auto Service Organization's" rating for modern motorcycle engines where the wet clutch, gearbox, and engine used the same oil. JASO-MA2 rated oils do not contain friction modifiers which could cause our F-twin bike's clutch to slip. (Think of all the trivia contests you're going to win now!)

Note 1: The specific bike shown is a 2013 F800GS, but the oil/filter change should be applicable to all twin-cylinder F650, F700 and F800 bikes and models
Note 2: The tools and materials used are by personal choice and are not due to any affiliation with any brand
Note 3: Early model F-twins came with a 24mm bolt as the drain plug, most were (and should be) replaced with the style that uses a 10mm hex socket. That "new" drain plug BMW Part Number is: 11 13 7 708 604

Materials Required:
- 3.1 quarts of BMW (or equivalent) 15W-50 oil
- Oil Filter - BMW Part Number: 11 42 8 409 567
- Crush washer for drain plug - BMW Part Number: 11 41 7 652 949

Tools Required:
- Oil filter wrench that fits the oil filter above (sold at many online retailers and your favorite dealer)
- 10mm hex socket (or possibly 24 mm 6-point socket)
- Ratchet(s) that fits both of the above
- Torque wrench(es)
- Drain pan
- Paper towel, rags, or your least-favorite t-shirt

 

[drneo66]

- Warm up the bike to normal operating temperature (go for a ride!)

If equipped, you may need to remove the bash plate to get to the drain and filter. On this motorcycle, the aftermarket bash plate requires the removal of two bolts in the front, and 4 nuts underneath of the engine.


This is the location of the filter and drain plug - note that this view is from the clutch-side of the bike, looking up to the bottom of the engine.

 

[drneo66]

Clean around the dipstick, then check to make sure that you can unscrew your oil dipstick.

It's better to know now - before you drain the oil - if you can't unscrew the dipstick, before you drain the oil, because if you need to take it somewhere for professional help because you can't get the dipstick unscrewed, you can still ride the bike to the professional.

 

[drneo66]

With your bike on the side stand, your dipstick unscrewed and your drain pan ready to catch the oil, open the 24mm bolt or 10mm hex bolt and let the oil drain out. Note that the oil does come out very quickly, so I tend to place the drain pan as close as I can to drain.

 

[drneo66]

Let the oil drain out from the engine until it's pretty much stopped dripping. This may take 10 minutes or more. I also rock the bike back up to fully upright, and then gently place it back on the side stand, as this tends to release just a little bit more oil from the drain.

While the oil is draining, clean the magnet located on the oil plug. It's common to have a little bit of metal debris stuck to the magnet, but if you have large pieces of metal, especially in great quantities, it's time to seek help from a professional.

 

[drneo66]

Once you have no to very little oil draining out, fit the new drain plug crush washer onto drain plug. Using your torque wrench, torque the drain plug to 40 Newton Meters (29.5 Foot-Pounds, 354 Inch-Pounds)

 

[drneo66]

Next we will remove and replace the oil filter. Using your oil filter wrench, and with the drain pan moved under the oil filter, gently unscrew the oil filter and let the oil filter area drain. Clean the area. Double check that the oil filter still has the rubber gasket that seals it against the engine; they are known to detach and "hold" onto the engine. Don't forget to properly recycle your oil and oil filter!

 

[drneo66]

With a suitable tool (like a finger), smear a light film of new oil on the oil filter rubber gasket. This will prevent the rubber gasket from sticking when you go to change your filter in the future.

 

[drneo66]

Screw on the new oil filter by hand. Then, using your torque wrench, torque the oil filter to 14 Newton Meters (10.3 Foot-Pounds, 124 Inch-Pounds).

 

[drneo66]

With both the drain plug and the new oil filter on the bike, we are now ready to add fresh oil to the engine. Ideally it's easier to put the bike up on the center stand or have a friend hold the bike for this part, but it's not required. Using a funnel or pouring very carefully, add 3.1 quarts (2.9 liters) of oil into the dipstick hole. I prefer to fill the oil level to the "MAX" level, knowing that the oil filter isn't yet full of oil, so we can expect that the oil level will drop when we start the bike.

 

[drneo66]

With the dipstick screwed back into the engine, it's time to start the bike. Start up the bike while watching the oil pressure light on the dash. The warning light should go out within a couple of seconds. Once the bike has warmed up to operating temperatures, stop the engine. After a couple of minutes of letting the bike rest, again check to make sure the oil is at the proper level.

 

[drneo66]

... and you're done! Clean everything up, reinstall your bash plate (if the bike is equipped), properly recycle your oil and filter, and if you have access to a GS-911 or a Motoscan tool, you can reset the "service" reminder on the dash (that process is covered in another thread). Thank you for following along and ride safe!