Next step 77 R100s

[ROBOB100S]

Thanks for all the help this winter work over the R100S with 17000 miles on her.
I started at the rear wheel and moved forward, With your tips and links.

I'm Going to install an S fairing, forks boots, and new brake lines.
Anything else should do when I'm there? Steering head bearing? Wheel bearing?
The front end has the infamous dive on braking, new springs? Hope to get it right the first time, so far that's been a challenge. Live an learn.
Much appreciation, Robert

 

[ROBOB100S]

Here she is, Conela

Cinnamon

 

[108625]

I'd do everything you mentioned, since you're going to be in there anyway. I did it all a couple years ago and the difference was well worth it. Think about it; your springs have been holding that bike up for over thirty years.

 

[crazydrummerdude]

Anything else should do when I'm there? Steering head bearing? Wheel bearing?

Are they notch-y? If it ain't broke..

Oh, and the steering head bearing replacement, like many other things on the bike, is not has hard as it sounds online or in books. Including race replacement.

Tell me to do it right now, and I could be done in 15 minutes. If you're a beginner, you should be able to do it in under an hour.

 

[orbitangel]

Sweeeeeet!

Cinnamon

That is a FINE example of the model!

You are a lucky man!

orbitangel

 

[tuber1]

Thanks for all the help this winter work over the R100S with 17000 miles on her.
I started at the rear wheel and moved forward, With your tips and links.

I'm Going to install an S fairing, forks boots, and new brake lines.
Anything else should do when I'm there? Steering head bearing? Wheel bearing?
The front end has the infamous dive on braking, new springs? Hope to get it right the first time, so far that's been a challenge. Live an learn.
Much appreciation, Robert

17K miles??? you shouldn't be doing any work to it, just riding

 

[26667]

beg to differ

17K miles??? you shouldn't be doing any work to it, just riding

Sorry to have to disagree, but that's not true. A 1977 machine w only 17 k hasn't been ridden or serviced enough. I know from experience. Everything rubber is dried out. For example, all the o-rings in the carbs, and the diaphragms. Rear main seal. Plastic, what little there is, has deteriorated. Check those little doughnuts at the bottom of the forks. We thought it was just some accumulated grease and dust. Nope. That "goo" was what was left of those plastic spacers. Don't forget that the brake fluid reservoir is plastic. And that brake fluid has its own properties. (Once we flushed the brake likes, I had a leak.) As for the steering head bearings, the grease will likely have turned to glue, making low-speed steering difficult. The good news is that you might be able to clean the bearings and replace. Does the S model have a steering damper? Same thing. There's a greased fitting that attaches under the steering head that allows you change positions (1,2,3). Tiny parts, tiny springs, dried-out grease. Look carefully for rust and hints of rust around the bottom of the tank, and near the petcocks, and inspect the liner and the petcock assemblies. A clutch cable is cheap and the original can be a spare that'll get you home in a pinch. Clutch and rear drive splines. Unleaded vlaves.

If you were to check my posts here and on the airlist over the past two and a half years you'd probably find more stuff I discovered had to be done to my '78 which I bought w only 18k. I hope yours is different, but the main lesson I learned is that the miles don't count for much.

Yours appears from the post and pix to be a more methodical approach than mine's been, and I regret taking the "wishful-thinking" and "whatever-rears-its-ugly-head" approach. Riding till something else goes haywire is a certain way to find out what's in need of repair, but by not fixing things while I was "there," I had to repeat lots of disassembly and re-assembly steps. It's not just the labor either. Some of the new parts have to be replaced once you take it apart again. One end to the other is a much better approach.

You may know all this stuff, but mine's been a bit of a frustrating experience, and why make someone else go thru it if they don't have to? Good luck and keep us posted. It looks sweet at this point.

 

[lkchris]

The front end has the infamous dive on braking ...

The "dive" is why I think it's more fun to ride my Airhead than an Oilhead.

 

[ROBOB100S]

Down to the bones

Here she is after the tear down, Can anyone I.D. the springs by the yellow paint?
Is there an O-ring at the bottom of the sliders that need replacing? No leaks before the disassembly. The front brake pads are worn short of the groves, R&R?
The steering head bearing is smooth, got he long turn signal stalks on and the fork boots ready. Now off to the painter with the S fairing!

 

[ROBOB100S]

brake pads

R&R? wron brake pads

 

[ROBOB100S]

more pads

The other caliper

 

[LOSTBOY]

I'd replace those pads, not because they're worn, but because their age means they won't stop as well as a fresh set.

The yellow paint on the springs mean they are the standard items. I prefer the "017" heavy-duty springs with appropriate pre-load. They'll have white paint on them and will be shorter than your originals.