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Need Help with the Throttle Synch Cables 2012 R1200RT
- Thread starter wvpc
- Start date
deilenberger
A bozo on the bus
Interesting. I'll admit I've never tried removing the cover over the pulley with the TB in place, mostly because it appeared impossible (or at least quite difficult - especially getting it back in place correctly.) But - good to know it can be done.
deilenberger
A bozo on the bus
A few 6-packs of good beer?What's another $18 at that point?
wvpc
Member
A few 6-packs of good beer?
Right now the Dealer wants about 5 cases of good beer to fix my screw up. Admittedly, I thought that was pretty decent for a "off the top of the head" quote for parts and labor. But, I think i'm going to give it shot and go for it myself later in the week once the part comes in. If Liv2ride didn't have any issues I feel pretty good about trying to replace 1 cable.
Thanks to all for the fast and concise inputs.
liv2ride
New member
Just as the guide indicates, the cover just lifts off.
liv2ride
New member
wvpc,
If you know your way around a tool box, chances are you are handy enough to pull off this job. It is not difficult, and you will learn more about your bike in the process. I found the cable distribution box quite interesting.
It is amazing how good the bike runs once you get a proper sync. Before replacing the cable, I was having inconsistent starts from a stop. When starting to release the clutch the bike required more throttle to keep running. After the cable was replaced and spending 5-10 mins to adjust the sync, she ran like a top again.
Aloha.
Scot
wyman.winn
i should be out riding!
from the MaxBMW microfiche it looks like it would be an "E" clip on the under side....may be the reason the TB needs to come off to get at that clip....the microfiche does not have a pic of the clip, at least that i can see...
you may indeed need the oekiter clamp pliers for this...
wyman
wvpc
Member
Got the tank off. Looks like I have enough room to move around. Looked at the TB and still can't see well enough how that cable comes off. Looked behind it with a mirror and it was not clear how it comes apart.
I do have a pair of oetiker pliers but I don't want to take those throttle bodies off. I'll keep investigating.
I do have a pair of oetiker pliers but I don't want to take those throttle bodies off. I'll keep investigating.
liv2ride
New member
I don't recall an e-clip in the process but I do recall the "retaining plate" that hold the cable in place. If I recall correctly, you just need to pull it out a bit (don't think it comes off) to allow the cable to lift out. Reverse to secure the new cable. Hope this helps.
To avoid moving the throttle body I did have to spend time on my back, looking up at the assembly. You will need to use a light to shine in that area to see anything well enough to do the work.
tinytrains
Still plays with trains.
What isn't shown in those instructions (the REP-ROM assumes lots of things are "obvious" to trained mechanics) is - to get the cover off the throttle-body, it's first required that the throttle body be removed from the cylinder/air-box. Doing this isn't a terrible job IF you have the correct special pliers used to release and reinstall the tension-bands used to hold the rubber bits to the hard bits. I do suggest trying to bodge this will be a bad move and ultimately expensive. The tool looks like the mouth of Ollie from Kukla, Fran and Ollie (am I showing my age?) - with two opposing teeth that go into raised bits on the bands allowing you to remove, and then install the bands.
I seem to recall finding mine on Amazon.. Lisle CV BOOT CLAMP PLIERS FOR EARLESS TYPE C - LIS30500 - http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30500-B...=1-1&keywords=Lisle+30500+CV+Boot+Clamp+Plier
$18 - worth every penny. These are the same pliers that my friendly local official BMW dealer's mechanic's use. I asked them before I purchased them. Probably also available at NAPA auto-parts stores (might have to be ordered) as these are commonly used on CV joint bands on GM cars.
Question: When you use this tool, are the clamps reusable, or do you have to buy new ones?
thanks,
AntonLargiader
Well-known member
You can reuse them.
Funny that Don mentioned the loose cam chain tensioners on that bike. I had one come in yesterday with loose tensioners on both sides.
Funny that Don mentioned the loose cam chain tensioners on that bike. I had one come in yesterday with loose tensioners on both sides.
deilenberger
A bozo on the bus
As Anton noted - reusable. And you wouldn't want to install new clamps without using this tool, chances are you'll destroy them. Think of it as an investment in sanity.
Laying under a bike to do that kind of job is way old for me.. I like sitting on my little stool next to it, Wagner playing in the background, and doing the job in a civilized manner..
Plus you'll be the go-to-guy in your local club. The one use of that tool for the guys loose cam-chain-tensioner resulted in two 12-packs of German beer showing up on my porch later in the day, more than covering the cost of the tool.
deilenberger
A bozo on the bus
Guess I should check his other (starboard) side. At least that's ones easy - no TB removal required..
deilenberger
A bozo on the bus
Standard Oetiker pliers (which look like end-cutting-nippers) won't work with these bands. They would tend to destroy them. It's a REALLY easy job to take the TB off if you have the pliers. REALLY EASY. And it makes the rest of the job much easier too. There are lots of special tools you can "work around" or use something else - in this case it's just not worth it. The tool is cheap. The tool is effective. The tool makes life much easier. And it's easily available (got a NAPA dealer in the neighborhood? Give them the Lisle PN and you'll have it in a day or so.)
wvpc
Member
My Oetiker pliers are the standard type so I have ordered Amazon.. Lisle CV BOOT CLAMP PLIERS FOR EARLESS TYPE C - LIS30500 - http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30500-Bo...ot+Clamp+Plier. My part should be in Tuesday so I'll give it a try next week. I may have some more question then...
Ponch1
Ponch
A few 6-packs of good beer?
$6 for a six pack? Where do you shop? Not even on sale...
tinytrains
Still plays with trains.
As Anton noted - reusable. And you wouldn't want to install new clamps without using this tool, chances are you'll destroy them. Think of it as an investment in sanity.
Laying under a bike to do that kind of job is way old for me.. I like sitting on my little stool next to it, Wagner playing in the background, and doing the job in a civilized manner..
Plus you'll be the go-to-guy in your local club. The one use of that tool for the guys loose cam-chain-tensioner resulted in two 12-packs of German beer showing up on my porch later in the day, more than covering the cost of the tool.
Thanks. They are now on my Amazon list.
deilenberger
A bozo on the bus
I did actually take a looksee at my starboard side Throttle Body to see if the plastic cover over the pulley could be removed with the TB in place. One corner of the plastic cover is actually formed so it JUST clears a frame tube. It is either resting against the frame tube or just about resting against it. I doubt if I could pull the cover with the TB in place. Of course I never tried so the point is moot perhaps - just glad I'd never have to try.
deilenberger
A bozo on the bus
Cool. A few hints:
- On removal - study the clamp first so you get the teeth of the tool into the right holes. You want to compress the clamp slightly with the two ends sliding past each other as you pull them together with the tool. Doesn't need much at all - then the end can be popped free with your thumbnail.
- Take all 3 clamps off. Then gently pull the TB away from the rubber mount going to the intake on the head. The other part will take care of itself pretty much.. reassembly is the reverse.
- On installation - they don't have to go back exactly in the same rotational position as BMW put them. I put the sections that the tool grabs so they face out. Easier to install and will be easier to remove if I ever need to again. And again - study them carefully when reassembling - you might take a gander at the other side that's still assembled to make sure you have the clamp ends oriented correctly. One you get back in the right holes - it's squeeze and press the loose end down, then release. It will catch when you release.
